Volvo 245 engine refuse to run right properly

[volvotazz]

ENGINE REFUSES TO RUN.
92 2.0ltr toslanda estate
Ok engine ran fine 3 weeks ago, ran perfect never missed a beat.
Dropped car off at MOT centre for retest on stick handbrake.
MOT CENTRE rang say car was out fuel. (always had broken fuel gauge) but tank full.
Car would not start at centre with boost pack and sounded like out fuel.
Got car home (tow truck) and changed the following. Either had new parts already or order.
Each were changed to eliminate obvious.
Fuses checked, petrol in tank.
Fuel pump and filter. Fuel relay. (Done this before pulled rail off and checked fuel at engine)
Plugs, Plug leads, Coil, battery (had new spares to go on next service)
Crank position sensor.
Distributor cap and rotor
ECU
MAF ( NOT A OEM PART) but brand new.
I checked fuel at rail pumped very quick, injectors all pumped fairly equal, spark plugs all working fine.
I checked compression all good relative equal. Attached plug with spark plug tester all good. Checked injector noids all good. Done timing test TDC with screwdriver, distributor not moved but in correct location. No sign of belt damage or pulley balancer moved. When engine does run, TIMING light picks up markings on bottom pulley indicating correct timing. And all other markings in right positions.
Engine will run but briefly 20sec max and serious rough feathering throttle not to flood or loose fuel.
Then engine stalls and is almost like has flooded. Refuses to restart unless plugs removed and blown out (and is even a struggle to restart at that stage if starts at all)
Assuming all parts are good ( how to bench test CPS ?)
MAF (both MAF are giving me different reading at terminals) which has me confused. So it be honest not my favourite task wiring.
If I need to buy a second hand OEM MAF or new that’s fine but I don’t think that’s the issue.

1 car wont run in limp mode with New or old MAF installed.
2 on board computer SAY 121 when new and old MAF IN (reset each time)
3 even a non OEM part should still work. Make engine run even rough or last a couple of weeks
4 is not ECU as surely this wont allow engine to run at all?
5 car had small pool of water in passenger foot well not coolant or viper fluid 5 weeks and engine wont start thought was flat battery or radio left on ( fired straight away on jumper)assumed liquid had come in door seal in storm or could it have corroded a hole under cowl and be leaking rain water in, which in turn has corroded a wire or bridge two wires!!!!!!
I think is either a break in the loom wire some where but not sure how to check. Is either A break in CPS LOOM or MAF back to ECU. Just not sure how to check this.
Cant just keep throwing parts at it is becoming frustrating as cat even move car as wont run

[Clifford Pope]

Ignition Amplifier Module?

[Laird Scooby]

In addition to CLiffords suggestion, check the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) by removing the small bore hose from it and getting the fuel pumps running. If fuel comes out of the small bore stub, the FPR has failed and is leaking fuel directly into the inlet manifold causing flooding.

Also check the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) on top of the bellhousing, they're cheap and easy to change and can give strange results.

Check the inside of the dizzy cap for the carbon brush being present and not broken. This can cause the problems and symptoms you have - what colour was the spark when you checked it was sparking?