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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Apr 6th, 2020, 19:02 | #61 |
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Apr 6th, 2020, 21:01 | #62 |
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Trade rack. Like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Galvanise...wAAOSwoCFd2WWf? It looks like the SDV Clitheroe trade rack https://www.sdvroofracks.co.uk/ .... SDV will be able to clearly answer your question. And they could supply fittings still when I asked them a little while ago. Their racks were/are different for 240 vs 740 by the way. Check whatever you buy secondhand.
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Apr 7th, 2020, 08:25 | #63 | |
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It is exactly an SDV rack. Paid for it now and will collect once rules allow. Cheers, Fred. |
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Apr 13th, 2020, 12:21 | #64 |
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A load of stuff is coming in from Skandix on tuesday. It should keep us amused during lockdown.
Droplinks, indicator clusters front, lights rear,oilcap seal, dipstick oring, plugs, leads etc... Watch this space. |
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Apr 13th, 2020, 14:07 | #65 | |
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* Germans - from the Cockney rhyming slang, German Bands = hands
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
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Apr 20th, 2020, 10:33 | #66 |
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More jobs done:
Some small jobs I bought the bits for as I knew our little helper would enjoy doing them: dipstick o-ring, oil cap seal, washer botttle cap. The new oil cap seal was smaller in diameter and plumper, the o-ring for the dipstick sealed as opposed to sat, the washer bottle cap has its little plastic tail once more (we used pliers for shoving). We also removed the 'strainer' for the washer bottle as it was filling slowly. No wonder, it was impregnated with black muck. A good blast and clean in the sink and it now gobbles screen wash as fast as you can add it. Later on, I looked at the droplinks; an MOT advisory. They were clearly squashed but weren't jaw-droppingly buggered up...or were they? Removal was easy, 17mm on the lower bush and a 15mm holding the rubber donuts. I usd an impact driver as it fit on the 15mm for the rubber donuts, I used a ratchet spanner on the lower one as the steering arm gets in the way of anything more serious. None of them were ogre-tight anyway. Comparing old with new:The new rubber donuts were significantly plumper, the metal was a bit thicker (17mmm nut on top not 15mm) and crucially, neither of them were bent... The bent one also corresponds to a cracked undertray and smashed AC pipes. Perhaps an animal met its demise? (Bonus LS400 in background) Reattaching was a bit more of a pig as the ARB 'relaxes' out of the way. It is no hassle really, you just line things up and hold it while you tighten. One realy elegant solution for the 'torque setting' on the rubbery donuts is that you just welly them up until the outer bits of the washers are 42mm apart. I also tackled the rear lights. This was just fiddly but rewarding. I haven't got hand-model hands, they'd be more at home on display with the butcher. This meant that disengaging the bayonets, getting to the piddly little bolts and then doing the reverse was a slow and hand-cutting process. The outgoing units were totally shot, the sort of thing you throw in the bin, so that's what I did. They were crazed, one contained quite a bit of blinker fluid and the new ones are better if fiddly. I put everything out in order so that I didn't waste time playing guess the bayonet. I both love and hate the 'all in one place with specific bayonets for each bulb' setup. It makes perfect sense until you have to do them all at once and then it is fiddly and tiresome. With help, we checked the lights all worked and also replaced the indcator lenses on the front. Much easier. 4 mins all in. A perverted part of me likes the juxtaposition of new lights next to the somewhat beaten up paint... In other thoughts, the enormity of transplanting a 1UZ V8 into it is a bit intimmidating. That said, no time like the present to be thinking and getting stuff in place. I also have a roof rack and a full set of leathers (dark grey) to collect after isolation is done. The seats in there are ok but the foam is collapsing, I'd prefer some newer one and leather is definitely what I'd like. Apparently you can take a power supply for them from the heated seat line? Hope everyone is happy and well... I am. F |
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Apr 20th, 2020, 11:17 | #67 |
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Excellent progress there!
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Apr 20th, 2020, 12:38 | #68 | |
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Apr 20th, 2020, 13:13 | #69 | |
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This makes it easier : The long black fill-tube pulls out, peel back (carefully) the rubber donut-shaped ring from the top of the reservoir and remove then lift out the strainer. Soak both in a bowl of boiling water heavily drenched with white vinegar to remove the limescale. Concentrated lemon juice will also help if you don't have white vinegar. Wash, rinse and dry both parts and clean the outside of the fill tube. Rub some silicone grease into the rubber-donut and let it soak in for 10-15 minutes then wipe off any excess, don't rub. Then Haynes it and fill up a lot quicker than you used to! If you feel energetic and want to remove the whole washer bottle, you can soak it overnight with either a couple of dishwasher tablets or half a dozen denture cleaning tablets (preferably extra strength version) and hot water. Rinse and dry after. If you do that, take a note of where each screen wash pump lives and also remove the rubber grommet type seals for them - give them the same treatment as the donut-shaped bit. Refit, job done!
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Apr 20th, 2020, 14:22 | #70 |
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940, estate, moth, project, volvo |
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