Engine: TDI: - Timing belt rattle / tensioner failure / replacement - Page 2

Turbodave · Dec 4th, 2012, 12:11

Gotcha...

From what I gather, the damper pulley isn't part of the crank pulley but they can get stuck together over time? What I'm not following is how the crank pulley sits on the crank... from what I can gather on line, the crank doesn't have a woodruff key nor is it splined?

However, if I set the crank at TDC via the inspection hole/marker on the flywheel and then mark the crank pulley against the block (or does it have it's own timing marks?) then surely I can refit it having replaced the belt and tensioner, without worrying about the injection pump end as I don't intend on touching that for the time being.

Basically, if I lock the cam where it is and then lock the crank via the flywheel, remove the damper pulley whilst trying to leave the crank pulley in situ, will I still need to time it all back up or will that be sufficient to at least get it started?

In short, what will I be faced with if/when I remove the damper pulley and the crank pulley does come with it... is the end of the crank totally uniform, ie a round bar or does it have some sort of locating/lining up system?

Cheers

NI_Volvo_Nut · Dec 5th, 2012, 23:02

No woodruff key in the crank from memory or timing marks other than on the flywheel. in theory if you mark the cam before removal of the old belt, it should start again, email me if you do need to adjust the pump timing and I'll explain it

Darth Vol · Dec 6th, 2012, 00:03

I've a brand new belt for that engine. Was bought earlier this summer as was going to fix a 2.5T Volvo 855 B5252T but cam had snapped. So I scavenged the car for parts and scrapped it.
If you want it as still in original box I can post it to you for £20?

NI_Volvo_Nut · Dec 6th, 2012, 07:40

This is a VW Diseasel, are they the same belt?

Darth Vol · Dec 6th, 2012, 08:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by NI_Volvo_Nut

This is a VW Diseasel, are they the same belt?

Audi diesel but were used in the VW LT as well. Same belt yup!

Turbodave · Dec 8th, 2012, 11:25

Those of a nervous disposition may wish to stop reading...

It runs. Last night borrowed a couple of man sized spanners from work and set about tightening up the (buggered) tensioner with the damper pulley in situ. A BMW viscous fan spanner was the best tool for the job and whilst it could probably be much tighter, ie the pointer wasn't on it's mark I figured it was tighter than it's ever been so what the hell...

Liberal amounts of spray oil directed at the tensioner, stood back, turned it over and it fired straight away, idles fine and seems ok in that respect. Granted the tensioner looks a bit iffy and the belt is running towards the inside however, it starts so I guess the timing hasn't jumped and the valves are intact...

I'll throw caution to the wind, say a prayer, coat the belt in oil and see if I can nurse it the three miles to works so we can have a go at the crank bolt with the man sized power bars and air guns. No way would I be able to tackle such a job at home.

Then again, I'm tempted to run it as it is and if last 5 minutes or 5 months... accept it did well, it's time was up and get something a bit newer.

artiedtke · Dec 8th, 2012, 19:52

Watching with interest. This EXACT problem happened to me. However I opted for major surgery having all tensioners, water pump and oil seals etc. replaced by my mechanic.

Apparently every 20,000 miles the tension on the cambelt needs checking and if required adjusting back to spec. If this hasn't been touched for thousands of miles, this is probably why its slackened off.

As others have said though, depending on what your plans are, I wouldn't take the risk and would replace the tensioners, rollers and belt.

AFAIK yes the crank pulley needs to be removed, and the bolt is under some massive torque figure, albeit not impossible, I've heard of people taking these off with a large breaker bar and a steel rod.

EVOLVOLUTION · Dec 8th, 2012, 20:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by artiedtke

and the bolt is under some massive torque figure,

Torqued to 150Nm then 180 degrees further-------27mm socket and 3/4 drive knuckle bar with extension! Cuppa tea after that, PHEW!

NI_Volvo_Nut · Dec 8th, 2012, 21:38

I don't see why ANY crank pulley bolt needs to be that tight....

Anyway, if it starts and drives, replace said tensioner if you don't want to do the belt, at least give it a fighting chance of living a long and fulfilled life lol

Turbodave · Dec 10th, 2012, 16:37

How it's still running is beyond me.

Given how slack the belt was, the fact the timing hasn't jumped is a minor miracle. Anyways, tightened up the tensioner as best I could, nipped the 13mm bolt up tight and it's run for the past couple of days ok... starts fine, drives fine but the belt is still running towards the inside so when I get the facilities, tools and enthusiasm I'll have a go at getting the bottom pulley bolt out then do the tensioner and belt.

Plan wise, it's really starting to show it's age now... given it was bought about 30,000 miles ago as a stop gap, it's done well so if I can nurse it alone of another month or two with minimal expense then great, then it and the T5 and the Cavalier in the garage will be getting binned in liue of something newer/posher/better.

Shall report back once I've had a brave pill and found a man sized power bar!

Dec 5th, 2012, 23:02	#12
NI_Volvo_Nut Volvologist Last Online: Dec 6th, 2023 11:13 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bangor - Norn Iron View Photos By: NI_Volvo_Nut	No woodruff key in the crank from memory or timing marks other than on the flywheel. in theory if you mark the cam before removal of the old belt, it should start again, email me if you do need to adjust the pump timing and I'll explain it __________________ What's the matter with the car I'm driving? Can't you tell that it's out of style? Should I get a set of white wall tires? Are you gonna cruise the miracle mile?

Dec 6th, 2012, 00:03	#13
Darth Vol Exploring Europe Last Online: Mar 11th, 2024 22:05 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Munich View Photos By: Darth Vol	I've a brand new belt for that engine. Was bought earlier this summer as was going to fix a 2.5T Volvo 855 B5252T but cam had snapped. So I scavenged the car for parts and scrapped it. If you want it as still in original box I can post it to you for £20? __________________ International Scientific Traveler Last edited by Darth Vol; Dec 6th, 2012 at 00:12.

Dec 6th, 2012, 07:40	#14
NI_Volvo_Nut Volvologist Last Online: Dec 6th, 2023 11:13 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bangor - Norn Iron View Photos By: NI_Volvo_Nut	This is a VW Diseasel, are they the same belt? __________________ What's the matter with the car I'm driving? Can't you tell that it's out of style? Should I get a set of white wall tires? Are you gonna cruise the miracle mile?

Dec 8th, 2012, 19:52	#17
artiedtke Just one more thing... Last Online: Jul 10th, 2020 14:44 Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: North Wales	Watching with interest. This EXACT problem happened to me. However I opted for major surgery having all tensioners, water pump and oil seals etc. replaced by my mechanic. Apparently every 20,000 miles the tension on the cambelt needs checking and if required adjusting back to spec. If this hasn't been touched for thousands of miles, this is probably why its slackened off. As others have said though, depending on what your plans are, I wouldn't take the risk and would replace the tensioners, rollers and belt. AFAIK yes the crank pulley needs to be removed, and the bolt is under some massive torque figure, albeit not impossible, I've heard of people taking these off with a large breaker bar and a steel rod. __________________ '98 V40 2.0T B4204T - died... '96 855 2.5 TDI D5252T - 255,000 miles "Diesel without turbo is like a woman without boobs... sure you can drive it, but there's always something missing."

Dec 8th, 2012, 21:38	#19
NI_Volvo_Nut Volvologist Last Online: Dec 6th, 2023 11:13 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bangor - Norn Iron View Photos By: NI_Volvo_Nut	I don't see why ANY crank pulley bolt needs to be that tight.... Anyway, if it starts and drives, replace said tensioner if you don't want to do the belt, at least give it a fighting chance of living a long and fulfilled life lol __________________ What's the matter with the car I'm driving? Can't you tell that it's out of style? Should I get a set of white wall tires? Are you gonna cruise the miracle mile?

Dec 4th, 2012, 12:11	#11
Turbodave VOC Member Last Online: May 2nd, 2024 08:34 Join Date: May 2011 Location: Fife	Gotcha... From what I gather, the damper pulley isn't part of the crank pulley but they can get stuck together over time? What I'm not following is how the crank pulley sits on the crank... from what I can gather on line, the crank doesn't have a woodruff key nor is it splined? However, if I set the crank at TDC via the inspection hole/marker on the flywheel and then mark the crank pulley against the block (or does it have it's own timing marks?) then surely I can refit it having replaced the belt and tensioner, without worrying about the injection pump end as I don't intend on touching that for the time being. Basically, if I lock the cam where it is and then lock the crank via the flywheel, remove the damper pulley whilst trying to leave the crank pulley in situ, will I still need to time it all back up or will that be sufficient to at least get it started? In short, what will I be faced with if/when I remove the damper pulley and the crank pulley does come with it... is the end of the crank totally uniform, ie a round bar or does it have some sort of locating/lining up system? Cheers

Dec 8th, 2012, 11:25	#16
Turbodave VOC Member Last Online: May 2nd, 2024 08:34 Join Date: May 2011 Location: Fife	Those of a nervous disposition may wish to stop reading... It runs. Last night borrowed a couple of man sized spanners from work and set about tightening up the (buggered) tensioner with the damper pulley in situ. A BMW viscous fan spanner was the best tool for the job and whilst it could probably be much tighter, ie the pointer wasn't on it's mark I figured it was tighter than it's ever been so what the hell... Liberal amounts of spray oil directed at the tensioner, stood back, turned it over and it fired straight away, idles fine and seems ok in that respect. Granted the tensioner looks a bit iffy and the belt is running towards the inside however, it starts so I guess the timing hasn't jumped and the valves are intact... I'll throw caution to the wind, say a prayer, coat the belt in oil and see if I can nurse it the three miles to works so we can have a go at the crank bolt with the man sized power bars and air guns. No way would I be able to tackle such a job at home. Then again, I'm tempted to run it as it is and if last 5 minutes or 5 months... accept it did well, it's time was up and get something a bit newer.

Dec 10th, 2012, 16:37	#20
Turbodave VOC Member Last Online: May 2nd, 2024 08:34 Join Date: May 2011 Location: Fife	How it's still running is beyond me. Given how slack the belt was, the fact the timing hasn't jumped is a minor miracle. Anyways, tightened up the tensioner as best I could, nipped the 13mm bolt up tight and it's run for the past couple of days ok... starts fine, drives fine but the belt is still running towards the inside so when I get the facilities, tools and enthusiasm I'll have a go at getting the bottom pulley bolt out then do the tensioner and belt. Plan wise, it's really starting to show it's age now... given it was bought about 30,000 miles ago as a stop gap, it's done well so if I can nurse it alone of another month or two with minimal expense then great, then it and the T5 and the Cavalier in the garage will be getting binned in liue of something newer/posher/better. Shall report back once I've had a brave pill and found a man sized power bar!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)