V70 ignition barrel repair success

[2.4TSE]

Plate - that's good.

Lubrication - the electrical switch is a separate unit turned by the lock tumbler - so carefully lubricating the tumbler (not filling it with oil!) and gently jiggling the key and trying to persuade it to turn is not going to hurt, and may indeed help. As written I didn't use WD40 (being originally designed as a potential water dispersant it is thin once the volatile element has evaporated) but instead, 3-in-1 (a light machine oil). A few drops of new engine oil would have the same effect if light machine oil is not to hand.

Good luck.

[Homersdad]

I have now tried lubrication, 3 in 1 as suggested, still no joy at all. I will have to bite the bullet and go for a new one, think the old credit card will take a bashing here, but at least I will be able to get mobile again, not rely on the wife being a taxi driver for me (she is not too happy about this)

[2.4TSE]

A final try that I can think of (and I am not implying any dumbness - just trying to save you some dosh!) - You are sure that the steering lock is not biting? Try and rotate the steering wheel a few degrees each way as you turn the key if not.

If this fails to help, then yes, I will agree that it does look like the cause being something other than the usual failure point and that replacement rather than effective bodge is needed.

[Jim314]

Reportedly tapping on the ignition lock body with a medium to light hammer can free it up. If you do this, be sure the engine is not on so the airbag won't be triggered. Try wiggling the steering wheel while you tap, then put the key in the ignition and see if the lock cylinder will turn.

If I recall correctly I tapped and tapped on the ignition body on my wife's XC90 with no success, but this was before I loosened the plate on the bottom of the lock body. If your lock is still jammed after loosening the plate on the bottom then the broken chip may be wedged tight. Or maybe your lock is jammed due to an entirely different failure mode.

Addition in editing

I second the suggestion by 2.4TSE that you make sure it is not the steering column lock which is holding the steering wheel in place.

Also if you disconnect the ignition switch (or is it the immobilizer antenna?) without first disconnecting the main battery you will get an error code set which requires the dealer to reset something.

[stuartradley]

Can anyone tell me how to release the barrel of the ignition/steering lock on a 1997-98 V70 Estate please?

For several years the ignition key often failed to engage with what it needs to turn. It then just spun round with little effort. Previously, a second or third try usually engaged it. Occasionally it took more tries. The key would often encounter some initial resistance, but then glance off this and spin.

However, recently the key refused to engage no matter how many tries I had, or how I wriggled the key around. After some work stripping cowling and switches out of the way a day or two later, I found the key would again start the car, but it remains very unreliable.

When the symptom first became evident, I asked a garage mechanic if it could be fixed. He replied that it would be a very expensive job, and that I might be better just living with it.

I have seen several YouTube videos concerning this, and the posts here. One or two showed a small hole in the top of the lock casing, and explained that you insert the key and turn it to position 1, then insert any thin cylindrical pin into this hole. Push down on this and the lock barrel pops out. However, I can find no such hole anywhere on the lock casing of my vehicle.

Thanks, Stuart.

[4candles]

Originally Posted by stuartradley

Can anyone tell me how to release the barrel of the ignition/steering lock on a 1997-98 Estate please?
Thanks, Stuart.

You have a P1, this is P2 (00>07)

[Jim314]

Originally Posted by stuartradley

Can anyone tell me how to release the barrel of the ignition/steering lock on a 1997-98 V70 Estate please?

For several years the ignition key often failed to engage with what it needs to turn. It then just spun round with little effort. Previously, a second or third try usually engaged it. Occasionally it took more tries. The key would often encounter some initial resistance, but then glance off this and spin.

However, recently the key refused to engage no matter how many tries I had, or how I wriggled the key around. After some work stripping cowling and switches out of the way a day or two later, I found the key would again start the car, but it remains very unreliable.

When the symptom first became evident, I asked a garage mechanic if it could be fixed. He replied that it would be a very expensive job, and that I might be better just living with it.

I have seen several YouTube videos concerning this, and the posts here. One or two showed a small hole in the top of the lock casing, and explained that you insert the key and turn it to position 1, then insert any thin cylindrical pin into this hole. Push down on this and the lock barrel pops out. However, I can find no such hole anywhere on the lock casing of my vehicle.

Thanks, Stuart.

The problem may not be in the lock cylinder, you should first check the ignition switch on the end opposite to the key. If I understand your problem, you can sometimes turn the key around and around and it does not engage the switch, is this right? If so, it may be that you have a relatively simple problem, namely the ignition switch is at fault as opposed to the ignition lock.

At least in the Phase II V70 the ignition switch is fastened onto the lock case by two small screws. You can remove those screws and detach the ignition switch from the lock assembly which remains attached to the steering column. This is on the end opposite to the keyhole. Replacement of the ignition switch is very easy, and one can remove it easily to test its operation. Just insert a screwdriver in the receiver and turn. Be sure to depress the little spring loaded button in the receiver.

The ignition switch is actuated by a rod in the ignition lock which mates into a receiver in the ignition switch. This rod follows the movements of the key and so actuates the switch when the key is turned. If the receiver in the switch is worn, the rod might not engage the receiver in the switch. Is so, one could just change the switch.

If the end of the rod is worn, then a new switch still might restore function because probably the receiver is worn as well.

Addition in editing:

If your lock is like the older 960, this video will explain how to change the switch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfihHpz_icw

You do not have to disconnect the battery to remove the ignition switch.

[stuartradley]

Hi Jim,

Thank you very much for your prompt advice. A friend suggests that I scrap the steering lock and use the switch manually. I think I will still need the key with its chip to send the code to the coil to enable the ignition, though quite what it enables in a diesel engine I do not know. I need to do some inventive thinking. As a new member, I was unable to send a private message to you. I might contact you again when I have some ideas.

Best wishes, Stuart.

[stuartradley]

P.S. Jim,

I had not realised that you had sent two messages today. I previously responded just to the shorter one.

When the key spins with no engagement, both the switch and the steering lock are inoperative. This leads me to think that the linkage from the ignition lock that operates both these items is failing to engage at the ignition lock end. Possibly, (as you suggest) the lock itself is ok.

If this linkage were a simple shaft or flat strip, maybe it has become worn so that it does not reach properly into the ignition lock. You have given me an idea here. If I remove the switch and examine the drive member (shaft or whatever), maybe I can pull it out completely from the switch end, and if necessary repair it or fit a longer one.

As this linkage must pass and operate the steering lock bolt (from the ignition lock on the right, it passes under the steering column, to the switch on the left), possibly it is more complex than I imagine. I will give it a try and let you know the result.

Thanks for the ideas.
Best wishes, Stuart.

[Jim314]

My experience is with the 2007 XC90 which I think has the same ignition lock as the P2 V70. Since yours is a P1 V70 it may be different, but I don't think you can pull out the rod which actuates the ignition switch without completely disassembling the ignition lock.

The ignition switch is a safety critical component and you would be taking a significant risk with an improvised repair. Having said that the vehicle can be driven with the ignition switch detached from the ignition lock body. One would put the key in the ignition lock and turn it to Position II (the drive position) to unlock the steering column lock and then use a screw driver or other implement to turn the ignition switch to start the engine. When released the switch springs back to Position 2. The car can be driven in this way, but if the engine stalls starting from a stop (as it can with a manual transmission), one cannot simply push in the clutch and twist the key to restart the engine. Personally, I would use this system only to get the vehicle over to the dealer where I would get a correct repair.

Take the switch off the end of the lock body and look the situation over. Maybe you will be lucky and putting in a new switch will restore function, but if the problem is in the lock mechanism you would be taking a risk in implementing a novel repair that you figure out yourself.

Start a thread on the Phase I pages. Maybe someone there knows how this switch and lock fail, that is, if it is different from the Phase II.