Distributor help in Scotland

[c1800]

Well Dave, yes harsh here, cold and dry like a desert. Uk, damp, cool, I really don’t know, but if you know better, that’s ok. Oh, well, just trying to help.....

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by c1800

Well Dave, yes harsh here, cold and dry like a desert. Uk, damp, cool, I really don’t know, but if you know better, that’s ok. Oh, well, just trying to help.....

Very helpful it would have been as well if our environment had been similar to Canada. I have used a similar product to the one you describe, allegedly for that sort of environment and also allegedly waterproof - it may even have been the same product.

For the use it was put to (harsh marine environment) it was no good at all and not really waterproof.

For battery terminals and their connectors, they need to be clean, dry and grease-free. Once connected and tightened, then some dielectric or silicone grease over them to protect them.

[TonyS9]

If its a thermal related problem getting worse it could also be the ignition amplifier.

The Hall sensor will either work or not, its an input to the computer. The computer outputs to the amp which drives the coil.

The difference will be fuel. If there is no hall signal, there will be no fuel. If there is no amplifier output (only) then there will be fuel, but no spark.

Spark checker lights are a good simple tool, and ideally a light connected to the fuel pump.

[Ben W]

Right guys,

Sorry for the lack of progress, haven't had much time for the Volvo lately but got back on it this morning in earnest (or aa earnest as I can manage with my limited skills!)

The car will run barely , turns over very slow but will fire reluctantly and run with a fully charged battery, and instantly with a jump.

Tried the jump leads to starter, but theres not a noticable difference, maybe slightly better with the ground lead? Still turns over slowly though...

Was thinking about buying a battery today and seeing if that sorts it, as you still get a wee smell at battery but clears once running.

As above, I can usually smell fuel after repeated cranking, but I dont get lights on the tester on the spark plug leads..


Thanks very much lads,

Ben

[Laird Scooby]

On a hunch based on experience, i'm going to suggest renewing/replacing the starter motor, it sounds very much like the symptoms of a duff starter.

With your limited skills it's going to be difficult to not only describe further tests to make completely sure but for you to do them i would think.

Given the battery is smelling during cranking, that points to the starter pulling way too much current, this also means it can hog all available current so there's nothing left for the ignition system. Seen it many times.

This theory is borne out by the fact the car starts with a slave battery and the battery pong dissipates when the car is running.

[nutco]

but I dont get lights on the tester on the spark plug leads.

if your getting no spark, then its either the dizzy cap dirty/broken, coil or the amplifier, regards the engine turning over slowly even with jump leads on makes me think that you have a lazy starter motor, had mine fettled by a auto electrician and spun over great after that,

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by nutco

but I dont get lights on the tester on the spark plug leads.

if your getting no spark, then its either the dizzy cap dirty/broken, coil or the amplifier, regards the engine turning over slowly even with jump leads on makes me think that you have a lazy starter motor, had mine fettled by a auto electrician and spun over great after that,

We know his leads etc are ok as it starts with a slave battery but the starter struggles to turn over on just the normal battery alone.

Like i said in my post, everything points to a duff starter. There are tests that could be done but the OP has freely admitted his skills are limited so it's a case of bypassing those tests and making an educated/experienced guess and suggesting the starter.

[Ben W]

The starter cranked really fast to begin with before it got worse though, it always spins up okay

But just had the battery caps off, two cells are a bit dry looking and it had sweated acid down from one of the dryer cells, could that be the issue?

Otherwise once I've done that, time to start looking into starters?

[Ben W]

Lads,my apologies


Just short-tested the battery at my work with what we use on tractors... drivers side cell is as deid as a doornail


So, a new battery is what I need?
Sheepish isn't the word right now, had to cancel my starter motor order .. !

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Make sure your battery is fully charged and has enough electrolyte in before trying though.

Originally Posted by Ben W

The starter cranked really fast to begin with before it got worse though, it always spins up okay

But just had the battery caps off, two cells are a bit dry looking and it had sweated acid down from one of the dryer cells, could that be the issue?

Otherwise once I've done that, time to start looking into starters?

I did mention checking the electrolyte in the battery much earlier, same post but before the trick with the jump leads!

Originally Posted by Ben W

Lads,my apologies


Just short-tested the battery at my work with what we use on tractors... drivers side cell is as deid as a doornail


So, a new battery is what I need?
Sheepish isn't the word right now, had to cancel my starter motor order .. !

You need to find out why those two cells have gone dry. Have they gone dry because those two cells failed before the others (faulty battery)? Or did they go dry because the starter is pulling too much current (faulty starter)?
Or, least likely, have they gone dry because the alternator was overcharging?

I'd reinstate your starter order and get a new battery but a lead-acid one, NOT calcium technology version.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HB096-Lea...v/192434766703

One like that will do the job nicely.