Amazon: Under car rust proofing

[TCD]

Quite a few years ago I went to see a Sunbeam Alpine that ten years previously had had a very expensive restoration. There were pictures of the shell upside down on a jig having new floor panels etc welded in when it was done. It was a popper restoration and very expensive at the time.
Afterwards it was coated in thick underseal. This had dried out and separated from the metal and become a water trap. The car was completely rotten. When I saw it it had been stored outside and although it had not rained for a few days there was water dripping out from underneath it.
This was in the days when evilbay allowed the sharing of phone numbers so it was possible to view before bidding. On paper it sounded like a good car but I am so glad I went to view it.

[c1800]

Originally Posted by sleek lemur

Great response everyone. Thanks!

Anyone with specific experience of the part I'm dealing with? The long reinforcing member that runs between inner and outer front wings on an 1800? Am thinking of simply drilling three holes and inserting my lance (double entendre intended).

Haha! On my 1800 I drilled one hole (to fit a grommet/plug) in the middle of that square section and sprayed in Eastwood internal frame coating.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-in...z-aerosol.html

[sleek lemur]

I use the waxoyl with underseal product for underbody, which seems durable and doesn't crack and trap water and waxoyl, and lately, Dynax in box sections, doors etc.

Products are not expensive and I don't see any advantage in old engine oil. Yuk yuk yuk !

[Bob Meadows]

Further to my original post regarding Waxoyl & Tetroseal -- diluting with clean engine oil: ~ Once diluted the products have the consistency very similar to Dinitrol (another good product) if will eventually flash off to some degree.
Black or Clear is available.

Diluting the product allows it to creep far more than it would normally so the effectiveness is increased inside doors- box sections and other parts to include the inner wheel sections (remove the liners for a better finish)

If the underside is heavily rusted or muddy then it is better to remove the same as best you can- you want to apply onto a dry surface. It works well and after a two plus year check it remains in good condition particularly in the hidden sections/under wheel arch liners – suspension parts can get washed but these are generally easier to spray with a top up coating.

My 66 year old classic also thrives on it!
Good Luck
Bob.

[sleek lemur]

Will drill one hole (thanks, C1800). Have put my waxoyl in the airing cupboard in preparation and will wait for warm weather next week. Great response from everyone!

[sleek lemur]

Wow, that box section is tough! Thick metal. I guess the Jensen-built cars are easier to drill 🤣. Sprayed Jenolite and then clear Waxoyl. Waited til warm day. Still managed to get more product in my hair than in the car.