Bad running after new head gasket - cause?

[rogerthechorister]

So VOl FCR should work on my N reg 940 Sport?

I'm just back from festivalling/caravanning - about to have a snooze and then might see if I can fix the code reader I built.

[rogerthechorister]

Right, changed the LED in the code reader, getting 1-2-2 on the EZK, off to buy an AMM on ebay. Garage says goes well up to 4,000 revs then as flat as a pancake, just as if the turbo sort of vanished.

However, Garage boy's mate has I am told just bought a Sport from a dealer/enthusiast - paid £2.5k for that, took it over to Essex to be chipped and mapped, stands him in at nearly £5k now, running allegedly 401 bhp at the rear wheels and pulling 152 mph at the end of the measured mile at Santa Pod.

Has anyone seen that one out and about?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by rogerthechorister

pulling 152 mph at the end of the measured mile at Santa Pod.

Has anyone seen that one out and about?

Well you wouldn't really would you? Not at that speed!

Joking aside i'm pleased you got the FCR working and found the fault - can i make a suggestion before you hit "Commit To Buy"? Un plug the AMM and make sure the pins are all straight, it's not unknown on some for a pin to become bent and not make proper contact. Not sure if that applies to the one on yours but might save you a few quid! Also check there are no vacuum or pressure hoses missing from it, the main air trunking to/from it is tightly secured with no splits or pin-holes etc - seems odd it went when there was other work being done so could be something simple like the plug isn't pushed all the way home.
Might pay to disconnect the battery before disconnecting the AMM by the way!

[rogerthechorister]

I'm waiting for the seller to confirm that it is exactly the right part. I'll have a word with the garage in the morning.

[Laird Scooby]

Fingers crossed either way - there should be a Bosch 10-digit part number on it somewhere, they usually start with a "0" then the next 3 digits denote what it is (eg 0 100 xxx xxx would be a starter and 0 120 xxx xxx an alternator) and then the other 2 groups of 3 digits denote the product basic spec and the finer details in that order. Ideally you want the part numbers to match although one with slightly different digits at the end would probably work.

[Volvo_Utrecht]

It is also quite common for the foam from the inside of the airbox to become loose and "collect" on one side of the AMM. Just make sure you checked it and just remove the foam.

[rogerthechorister]

Old AMM has been cleaned

[rogerthechorister]

New AMM inserted.

Lambda light instantly went of of its own accord.

All codes clear.

No in stead of having no grunt at all from 4,000 revs upwards, we have a hiccuppy flat area from 3000 revs to 4000 revs.

I'm going to try an Italian tuneup a bit later to see if the LH2.4 has learned something wrong and needs to re-learn.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by rogerthechorister

New AMM inserted.

Lambda light instantly went of of its own accord.

All codes clear.

No in stead of having no grunt at all from 4,000 revs upwards, we have a hiccuppy flat area from 3000 revs to 4000 revs.

I'm going to try an Italian tuneup a bit later to see if the LH2.4 has learned something wrong and needs to re-learn.

How long has the Lambda light been on and is it separate from the engine management light?

Could be all down to a duff Lambda sensor, had that a few times on my Rover, usually only the back one but the one on the front back has gone as well.

[rogerthechorister]

She's had a new lambda sensor and if it was that I would have codes.