Cam Belt Horror Stories

[Levonsrealm]

I am performing a compete belt and front seal overhaul on my 240 this week. Albeit parts arrive on time from 3/4 different sources . I have watched plenty of videos, read many threads and read my haynes manual as religiously as a deacon in preparation to becoming ordained.

So, the purpose of this thread. What have you personally gone through when performing your first cambelt change that you wished others would know? Any mistakes you made that had to be rectified?
I would love to know any stories, how you fixed the problem, and tips and tricks you have picked up over the years.

All info is welcome, especially if your tip is not something most would do.

[Bob Meadows]

I've done two to date, a third later this year:~

A single complication is one that I struggle to remember: you have one of the most straight forward vehicles to do this on.

The usual may apply like difficult nuts? no special tools.
Studying the appropriate methods is always a good move.

Still struggling to find a complication so will stop here.
Bob.

[Bugjam1999]

The first time I changed one the parts guy said ‘do you want the kit with the belt and the tensioner pulley, or just the belt?’ And I said ‘just the belt’

Then, once I had the car in bits it turned out that the tensioner pulley bearing was really worn and gritty feeling… cue a quick call around all the nearby parts places to find someone who had one in stock so I could put it all together again.

So now I always have both the belt and the pulley available when I change a cambelt, and if the pulley is fine I can keep the new pulley for the next one.

Cheers

[Levonsrealm]

Thanks Bob.
Thats right indeed! Also it should be mentioned that a lot of the engines are non b2xx engines are non interference except for the b200e/k?
Cannot quite remember which two engine codes are interference. If someone can confirm, please do.

[Levonsrealm]

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999

The first time I changed one the parts guy said ‘do you want the kit with the belt and the tensioner pulley, or just the belt?’ And I said ‘just the belt’

Then, once I had the car in bits it turned out that the tensioner pulley bearing was really worn and gritty feeling… cue a quick call around all the nearby parts places to find someone who had one in stock so I could put it all together again.

So now I always have both the belt and the pulley available when I change a cambelt, and if the pulley is fine I can keep the new pulley for the next one.

Cheers

Yes, I did buy a new tensioner and even the spring exactly for this reason.
In terms of old cars, I would rather have it and not need it, then disassemble and not have it.

Otherwise one could be waiting around two days for delivery with a car in bits for one small part. All of a sudden the car is back together and you pull a washer or bolt out of your pocket haha

[360beast]

Originally Posted by Levonsrealm

Thanks Bob.
Thats right indeed! Also it should be mentioned that a lot of the engines are non b2xx engines are non interference except for the b200e/k?
Cannot quite remember which two engine codes are interference. If someone can confirm, please do.

2.0 engines are interference, can't remember why exactly, I think the crown of the piston is domed or something like that where as the b230 piston crown is recessed in.

I would highly recommend the crank locking tool for undoing the crank pulley bolt. It can be done without but why mess around when you can spend one minute fitting the tool and know it will come undone without risking damaging anything, it also allows you to torque it up correctly.

Don't forget that after 600 miles you need to put cylinder 1 at TDC, slacken off the tensioner bolt to allow it to retension and then torque it back up. To get access to the bolt Volvo put a rubber bung in the cam cover so you can just pull that out.

[Levonsrealm]

Originally Posted by 360beast

2.0 engines are interference, can't remember why exactly, I think the crown of the piston is domed or something like that where as the b230 piston crown is recessed in.

I would highly recommend the crank locking tool for undoing the crank pulley bolt. It can be done without but why mess around when you can spend one minute fitting the tool and know it will come undone without risking damaging anything, it also allows you to torque it up correctly.

Don't forget that after 600 miles you need to put cylinder 1 at TDC, slacken off the tensioner bolt to allow it to retension and then torque it back up. To get access to the bolt Volvo put a rubber bung in the cam cover so you can just pull that out.

Thanks for the info. How would one put cylinder 1 to TDC?

I have read that people slacken off the tensioner and retighten it after 500 miles. This is the first time I have seen it mentioned to put cylinder 1 at TDC when doing this.

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by Levonsrealm

read my haynes manual as religiously as a deacon in preparation to becoming ordained.

I think deacons are ordained, aren't they?

[360beast]

Originally Posted by Levonsrealm

Thanks for the info. How would one put cylinder 1 to TDC?

I have read that people slacken off the tensioner and retighten it after 500 miles. This is the first time I have seen it mentioned to put cylinder 1 at TDC when doing this.

Set the timing mark on the crank pulley to 0 on the cam cover and that's TDC.

It is in the Volvo green book to do it this way, I'll try and dig it out if I get some time this weekend.

[BicycleBoy]

Originally Posted by Levonsrealm

I have read that people slacken off the tensioner and retighten it after 500 miles. This is the first time I have seen it mentioned to put cylinder 1 at TDC when doing this.

News to me too. Can reassure you that omitting this step hasn't caused catastrophic destruction. Probably good Volvo reason for doing so, but no idea why.