Cam Belt Horror Stories

[Othen]

Originally Posted by BicycleBoy

News to me too. Can reassure you that omitting this step hasn't caused catastrophic destruction. Probably good Volvo reason for doing so, but no idea why.

I do recall the green book talking about #1 being at TDC. There is no particular significance of #1, and not really TDC either, but it does make sense to turn the motor clockwise a bit using the crank bolt so the belt is tensioned on the nearside and any slack is on the tensioner side of course. I think that is all it is about.

[Bob 1967]

Originally Posted by Levonsrealm

Thanks for the info. How would one put cylinder 1 to TDC?

I have read that people slacken off the tensioner and retighten it after 500 miles. This is the first time I have seen it mentioned to put cylinder 1 at TDC when doing this.

Correct
There are plenty of Pics on the web of how to set up TDC on number one cylinder.
Not sure what type of distributor you have, but it could have a notch(visible after removing the cap) around 8 O'clock. when the rotor arm lines up with this notch it is at TDC no.1.

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by Othen

but it does make sense to turn the motor clockwise a bit using the crank bolt so the belt is tensioned on the nearside and any slack is on the tensioner side of course.

I think at very very low speed the belt tensions and slackens as each valve spring is compressed and released. Certainly that's how it feels if you try to turn the camshaft alone with your bare hands or a spanner.

That's why belts are much more likely to snap at idling speed than turning fast - at speed the tension is just a constant blur, but at idling it's a series of jerks.

[hreg240]

Originally Posted by 360beast

2.0 engines are interference, can't remember why exactly, I think the crown of the piston is domed or something like that where as the b230 piston crown is recessed in.

I would highly recommend the crank locking tool for undoing the crank pulley bolt. It can be done without but why mess around when you can spend one minute fitting the tool and know it will come undone without risking damaging anything, it also allows you to torque it up correctly.

Don't forget that after 600 miles you need to put cylinder 1 at TDC, slacken off the tensioner bolt to allow it to retension and then torque it back up. To get access to the bolt Volvo put a rubber bung in the cam cover so you can just pull that out.

We were discussing this in my thread and it was said that the B200e was 'non-interference'.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_Redblock_Engine

" All single camshaft versions of the engine with the exception of the K series (B200K, B230K) are of 'non-interference' design, meaning that failure of the toothed belt will not result in engine damage."

I was unsure, and still am, as there is a lot of conflicting information

[Levonsrealm]

Haha yes I believe they get ordained into each stage. So ordained to priesthood from once being a Deacon.

[Levonsrealm]

Originally Posted by hreg240

We were discussing this in my thread and it was said that the B200e was 'non-interference'.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_Redblock_Engine

" All single camshaft versions of the engine with the exception of the K series (B200K, B230K) are of 'non-interference' design, meaning that failure of the toothed belt will not result in engine damage."

I was unsure, and still am, as there is a lot of conflicting information

I agree H reg, I have also read a lot of conflicting information. I think i'll just treat the adventure with caution.

[hreg240]

Originally Posted by Levonsrealm

I agree H reg, I have also read a lot of conflicting information. I think i'll just treat the adventure with caution.

Likewise, I think a systematic approach and ensuring you double check TDC et al will mitigate risks.

I've subscribed to this thread - interesting to hear from others their experiences.

[360beast]

Originally Posted by hreg240

We were discussing this in my thread and it was said that the B200e was 'non-interference'.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_Redblock_Engine

" All single camshaft versions of the engine with the exception of the K series (B200K, B230K) are of 'non-interference' design, meaning that failure of the toothed belt will not result in engine damage."

I was unsure, and still am, as there is a lot of conflicting information

There are people in the 7/900 section who have had a B200E cambelt snap and valves hit pistons, as far as I'm aware all 2.0 low friction engines are interference.

This is because the 2.0 pistons have a dome on top of the crown but the 2.3 have a dished crown.

[Levonsrealm]

Originally Posted by 360beast

There are people in the 7/900 section who have had a B200E cambelt snap and valves hit pistons, as far as I'm aware all 2.0 low friction engines are interference.

This is because the 2.0 pistons have a dome on top of the crown but the 2.3 have a dished crown.

In this case it will be best to treat the engine as interference.

[classicswede]

Before you start make sure the timing marks line up. The bottom pulley can slip on the rubber. If it has spun then get a new one

B200 non turbo engines have a raised crown that will hit the valves. The turbo pistons are dished and do not have the problem. B230's are all dished. The B230K with 631 is the only B230 that bends valves