Engine: 2.8 F/Inj B28E: Crank Pulley Removal

[piemuncher22]

Hi Bertoni.
As far as I'm aware the only other thing that would be different from cold start to hot start would be the control pressure regulator.
These are very expensive to buy new, about £250, so I ordered one up from a breakers yard for £40 a couple of weeks ago (still hasn't turned up - another post about that will follow).
I checked the same things you have - aux air valve, cold start injector and thermo time switch, and therefore by process of elimination figured that the warm up regulator was the only thing left.
It is possible to check the fuel pressure around the system, by way of a pressure gauge fitted in the fuel supply line, but I couldn't be bothered with all that. If there is a bosch service centre near you they may be able to test the pressure for you??
May be worth checking the fuel pressure on yours anyway as from what I have read you have given your fuel pump a bloody good spanking to get it running again and this could also be something to do with it??
In the end I gave my ignition system a good clean (dizzy cap in particular and oiled with WD40) and this cured all my problems. Didn't need to change the pressure regulator at all.
Car ran completely differently, like a new car, more power, no problems starting and smooth idle at any temperature, cold or warm.
Without meaning to teach anyone to suck eggs, have you serviced your ignition system recently??
I have a couple of great manuals about K Jetronic which I will be happy to send you if you PM you email address to me.
Also in my haynes manual there is a procedure for adjusting the idle speed. I'll have a read up and see what it says and post it on this thread.
Paul.

[Bertoni1980]

Paul, you are absolutely right that the CPR (control pressure regulator) provides the necessary enrichment of fuel for cold starting. I spent a few hours yesterday researching on the internet about it. It is apparently used by many brands of cars (Audi, VW, Porsche) besides Volvo and it is more commonly called as WUR (warm up regulator). I have read quite a few discussions on other web forums talking about how to dismantle it, clean it up or even calibration of it. I decided to give it a try and I took it apart.

The CPR on my 1980 Bertone is a little more complicated than simple WURs on other cars. I was able to take the discs (the actual part that does the pressure regulation) out and clean them up. I also cleaned up the fuel inlet and outlet to make sure there is no blockage. There is really nothing that can be damaged by doing this. It took me no more than an hour and I had it back in the car again.

It seems to have made some improvement although I can't say it's perfect. I have the Haynes manual too. Its description of the idle adjustment procedure is far too simple. But it lays the ground of the basic of the adjustment. After an hour of tweaking the idle air adjustment screw and the CO adjustment (the hidden screw between the fuel distributor and the air intake I was able to get the idle reasonably stable at 900 - 1000 RPM. Iit could warm start without any problems. I then tried to cold start it 3 hours later. It did not start in my first attempt. But it started on the 2nd and with a little bit of pedal. I think this is quite acceptable. I will try it again tomorrow morning after it sits through the night.

The bottom line of these adjustment will have to result in a good exhaust that will pass California's SMOG check. I think I will have to send it to a shop that can make a final tweaking so that it will pass the SMOG check. The shop is likely to redo everything in their way with CO meter hooked up. For me I just need to make sure the Auxiliary air valve, thermo time switch and CPR are not defective. I believe they are in reasonable good shape.

I actually took it to a spin around the block today. It ran very smoothly. It shows plenty of push and the engine is very quiet. I did hear a little bit of pinging upon a little hard acceleration. I had the ignition timing set to -10 degree. This is probably too much. I will back it down to -8 degree and see if the pinging will go away.

Many thanks, Paul. I will let you know if I still need anything. By the way, I did clean my ignition distributor cap before I reinstalled the intake and fuel system. On the B27/28 engine there is no way to reach the distributor cap without removing the fuel distributor. This is a pain in the neck to do. So I made sure it was checked and cleaned before installing it. I also had new Bosch plugs installed. So the ignition system should be in good shape. Thanks for sharing your experience about it.

[Bertoni1980]

I think I am going to wrap up this thread at this point. I still have a major work to do with the K-Jet tuning/check/adjusting to make the Bertone to run correctly. What I have in the gas tank is a few gallons of 7 year old gas and 4 gallons of fresh gas mixed. This may be the reason I am hearing some pinging on hard acceleration. When the gas tank finally empties and refilled with fresh one then I will seriously looking into it if it still pings.

What I have in mind now is to make a fuel pressure gauge. I have a few pressure gauges with a range of 0-200 PSI. I may be able to find one with 0-100 PSI. I also have a spare CPR with fuel lines on it for a B27 engine. I don't have my old 264GL any more so I can take the fuel line off from the CPR to make a fuel pressure gauge from the fuel line. I just need to cut it in the middle into two pieces. Then fit the gauge in between. This will be a perfect test gauge for testing the control pressure. I will be able to know if my CPR works correctly or not. I will start another thread on this project. Hope this pressure gauge will help me to check and tune my fuel system to make sure it works the way it should.

Paul, thanks for your offer of your K-Jet books. Since I have found a lot of them online I don't think I will need them any more.

Best wishes.