B16 Cylinder head studs.

[arcturus]

Doing an engine rebuild. I find the studs a pain in the a**e,especially when removing and replacing the head. Is it possible to replace with bolts and if so a source would be helpful.

[Derek UK]

If your rebuild goes well, you're not likely to be removing the head again so a little inconvenience at this point not too annoying IMO. If the engine is out and on a stand you can use your engine crane to lift the head off if you find it a bit heavy.
Are you having hardened exhaust valve seats fitted?
A small Denso alternator would suit your car if it clears the bonnet hinge.

[arcturus]

Probably do the valve seats. Re studs,I found it a pain trying to either replace head over studs,it always seems to hang up if it's not exactly square,alternatively getting the studs back into the block equally a pain. Will probably be sourcing used parts from Harry Hermanson in Sweden.Do you know which thread size is used on the studs where they screw into block? I might try to run a tap down to clean up the threads.

[Derek UK]

You can use a couple of suitable bolts with the heads cut off as locators for getting the head in the right place. Running a tap down the block holes is a good idea. Try not to cut any metal! The same with a die in the studs. Locking a couple of nuts on the studs to test run them will work. I think they are M10 but probably hardened. There is a small amount showing above the nuts when torqued down and you could if you are brave cut a shallow slot in the top for a screwdriver. I remember doing that on the at least one of the B16 starter motor studs as with the nut stuck on, it just wound the stud out, but there wasn't enough clearance to take it out. This also helped to get it back in again. Does that sound correct? It was 50 odd years ago!

[blueosprey90]

My 2 cents, never having rebuilt a B16 engine.

You must chase (run a tap down) to clean up the holes. You must also chamfer all of the holes. This removes the threaded part of the hole that is pulled up when the studs were tightened.

And I would go with new, hardened studs rather than cap bolts if at all possible. There is a reason they were used in the first place. Studs allow a much more accurate torque value and don't "walk" when being tightened. Google "engine block studs versus bolts" and you should come up with several hits worth reading.

Studs and bolts tend to stretch when tightened down more than a few times, so check for stretch if reusing your existing studs.

Also, don't bottom the studs in the hole. Leave them 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn loose.

If the engine is out, even if you don't do any machine work, you might consider doing a refresh, with new bearings, cleaning the oil galleries, new oil pump etc.

[arcturus]

Not M10. seems to be a finer thread.M10 nut will screw on for about three threads. Will need to find a thread gauge.