New V60 owner

[Bantamdave21]

Hi folks,

Just wanted to say hi and also ask some stuff.

So hi everyone. Historically I’ve been a ford man since my early teens but more recently have had an XC90 as a company car for almost 3 years. So now having given up the company car decided a volvo was for me, it was either a slightly newer Ford based on budget or a 61 plate V60 lux sportswagon.

So onto the questions….is there a preferred or recommended diagnostic interface? I have some OBD leads and a few code readers (my sykes acr4 wont be any good I’m assuming lol) but with fords over the years i found OBD had its limitations and had to get more dedicated software and interfaces. Is this similar with Volvos or is it dealer only?

Anyway nightmare day!! Car been delivered- took it for a spin and with a mile lost steering, then crazy things happening on dash- ABS and airbag alerts then low voltage or may have said low battery….then eventually started to die almost as if there is a low pressure pumpmthat supplies the engine and was literally behaving like it was running out of fuel then stopped all in the sapce of a few hundred yards. Then wouldn’t start in flat battery style. Had to find someone to jump me off and started immediately then dies within a minute, longer jump the further i got. So seems to be alternator as the battery 1, seems new and 2, seemed to be holding the charge from the jump vehicle. Are all the things i had going off with the dash usual for what these cars do when alternator effectively isn’t charging?

61, V60 diesel (drive model)

Thanks guys - wish me luck….

[bomberfr0g]

just delivered.... phone garage and insist they take it back and fix or refund and look for another...

[Bantamdave21]

Originally Posted by bomberfr0g

just delivered.... phone garage and insist they take it back and fix or refund and look for another...

Unfortunately in this instance just delivered means a collection i arranged myself for a private sale. All was good when viewed, test driven and deposit placed… 😖

[Bantamdave21]

Does anyone know if there’s any fancy external gadgetry controlling the alternator? Popped a new battery on and I’m getting zero charge in so assuming alternator is goosed but an expensive mistake if there’s another link in the chain particularly if it was 180a alternator

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Bantamdave21

Does anyone know if there’s any fancy external gadgetry controlling the alternator? Popped a new battery on and I’m getting zero charge in so assuming alternator is goosed but an expensive mistake if there’s another link in the chain particularly if it was 180a alternator

The cars computer controls the alternator , I would get the fault codes read and leave the professionals to sort it for you . you have already spent £100 on a battery unnecessarily ..

[Bantamdave21]

Cheers,

I’ve read codes with a fairly decent (usually reader) and once I cleared all the codes which I’m assuming were from the event itself and the battery dying. With a good donor battery to test as I assume the other at this point will come back up on a charge I’m getting running voltage of 11.7 volts at the alternator stud. From a battery that’s 12.7 volts standing. I’d generally expect 12.5-13 volts no load out from the alternator….hence the question ref gadgetry before I fit an alternator.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Bantamdave21

Cheers,

I’ve read codes with a fairly decent (usually reader) and once I cleared all the codes which I’m assuming were from the event itself and the battery dying. With a good donor battery to test as I assume the other at this point will come back up on a charge I’m getting running voltage of 11.7 volts at the alternator stud. From a battery that’s 12.7 volts standing. I’d generally expect 12.5-13 volts no load out from the alternator….hence the question ref gadgetry before I fit an alternator.

it should be well over 14V from that terminal , There are test routines in the Car which are activated by the volvo VIDA diagnostic equipment . most likely the alternator which is very unusual , but must be worth getting it diagnosed properly .

[Adrian B]

XC60 2012 D5
Firstly I am not a mechanic/technician.
I did have a lot of spurious display readouts on the clocks and stop/start intermittent. I was told it could be the battery not being fully charged so I bought an intelligent charger which helped a lot by plugging it in every 2 weeks. Eventually I got a red warning saying charging system requires a service. Turned out the alternator was shot. The readings where 12.1v fully charged which dropped when car was started! Exchange alternator was £110 with a years warranty. It was from Rotating solutions in Portsmouth. Easy to deal with but it took 3 days to arrive. It was a reconditioned Bosch unit , 180amp. Tight to fit but not rocket science. See you tube etc. When fitted. Battery charged to 12.9v and up to14.9 v when engine running! Just a word of warning get all codes wiped when alternator changed. Up to now no need to charge battery and stop start works fine.
Far less spurious messages but " window sensors blocked" message does pop up now and again🙄but does go off to on its own!

[Bantamdave21]

Originally Posted by Adrian B

XC60 2012 D5
Firstly I am not a mechanic/technician.
I did have a lot of spurious display readouts on the clocks and stop/start intermittent. I was told it could be the battery not being fully charged so I bought an intelligent charger which helped a lot by plugging it in every 2 weeks. Eventually I got a red warning saying charging system requires a service. Turned out the alternator was shot. The readings where 12.1v fully charged which dropped when car was started! Exchange alternator was £110 with a years warranty. It was from Rotating solutions in Portsmouth. Easy to deal with but it took 3 days to arrive. It was a reconditioned Bosch unit , 180amp. Tight to fit but not rocket science. See you tube etc. When fitted. Battery charged to 12.9v and up to14.9 v when engine running! Just a word of warning get all codes wiped when alternator changed. Up to now no need to charge battery and stop start works fine.
Far less spurious messages but " window sensors blocked" message does pop up now and again🙄but does go off to on its own!

Hiya

It seems I can’t reply to your PM. Thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately I thought mine was 150a based on the info I could find. When I removed old unit found it was 180a. It’s got the 150 fitted with no faults or errors so far. I’ve got the Volvo Vida set up (worth knowing given you’re local) wiped everything and all is well although volts seem stable in the mid 13’s which I found odd and expected more like 14 but it’s doing ok.

If you don’t have it and ever need Vida let me know. Still figuring out just how much it can do

Yes it was fiddly but I’ve done worse - timing belts on mk2 mondeo diesels with air con spring to mind. Awfully fiddly job when I was but a lad.

[Bantamdave21]

Originally Posted by Clan

it should be well over 14V from that terminal , There are test routines in the Car which are activated by the volvo VIDA diagnostic equipment . most likely the alternator which is very unusual , but must be worth getting it diagnosed properly .

New alternator now fitted and all well. It has done 170k so I guess it’s done some work. I’ve inadvertently bought the 150a instead of 180a which is on and working will swap to 180a in coming weeks. But needed it working so had to give it a try.