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850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General Forum for the 850 and P80-platform 70-series models |
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Water pump - Do I fit one?Views : 2115 Replies : 31Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 8th, 2019, 13:09 | #21 |
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Well not wishing to throw a spanner in the works....but very strange that one tooth is missing after every three ?
Doubt that it would break them off or whatever so consistently, maybe it's not the original pump ? Or the original pump was like that ? Only someone in the know will know !!!! Or has come across this before. Good luck with it....
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Sep 8th, 2019, 13:46 | #22 | |
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Sep 8th, 2019, 14:16 | #23 | |
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2008 V70 SE D5 Auto 185 ...now 205 Volvo Polestar......190k Passed away - 1999 V70 2.5tdi Auto 340632 miles, RIP. |
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Sep 8th, 2019, 15:19 | #24 | |
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The Power of the Moose 850 2.0L 20 valve 2WD Estate 1996. MK1 Escort Twin Cam 1969. Last edited by Moose850; Sep 8th, 2019 at 15:22. |
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Sep 8th, 2019, 15:32 | #25 | |
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https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/aisin-2225517.html The picture does not show the pulley like mine with a missing tooth after every 3 teeth. The question is if I buy this pump and it comes through with the pulley as in the picture it will have 19 teeth whereas if I were to add the 5 missing teeth on my pulley it would equal 20 so if the teeth are the same spacing the pump would run at a different speed, slower I think. Any ideas as to whether this would be a problem?
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Sep 18th, 2019, 16:39 | #26 |
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Decided to change the water pump in the end and bought genuine water pump for £89 + VAT. You also get the 7 bolts threadlocked. Interestingly the bolts in the pump I took off which was the original (@ 250,000 miles) were at least 10mm longer than the new one's.
Before I did the job there was not water leak and no noise associated with the pump. Once the belt tension was released and I spun the pump by hand there was an awful 'metal to metal' sound and a tad of side play in the bearings. When I removed the pump the impeller blades had been chaffing on the ali house that they run in within the block. The leading edge of each blade was shiny along it entire length and the housing it runs in was shiny too. Just in the nick of time I would say. I have a question: Before the pump change the temp gauge needle run bang on half way (horizontal) and never ever moved in hot or cold weather - just as it should. Now it is a hairs breadth below half way then a few miles along the road it will be bang on, then a little while later slightly down again. Also the air from the heater is not as hot as it used to be. I imagine I must still have a little air in the system. Would you say that is correct? If so how can I remove it or is it just a case of time and letting it work itself out?
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Sep 20th, 2019, 11:05 | #27 | |
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Whilst the lower temperature may be due to air in the system, the other possibility is again due to the lower heat capacity of clean coolant so less heat comes out of the radiator. If it is due to air, it will purge from the system fairly quickly.
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Sep 20th, 2019, 11:27 | #28 | |
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My thoughts are air in the system but I will watch with interest and see if things settle back to as they were before. Many thanks for your reply.
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Sep 20th, 2019, 15:06 | #29 | |
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The corrosion salts and oxides in old coolant increase the coolant's ability to hold heat so more energy is delivered to the thermostat in the given period of time so the thermostat will react more quickly. The old coolant is more efficient at transmitting heat throughout the system but as it is moving more slowly achieves a more even temperature at the temperature sensor so it appears to be a steadier reading. As you, I think is more likely that the reduced heater output is due to air in the heater matrix.........burp it and I don't mean throw the car over your shoulder and pat it on the back
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Sep 21st, 2019, 00:00 | #30 | |
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When you say 'burp it', is there anything I can do like squeeze hoses or is it a case of just waiting?
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