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'94 Volvo 850 paint problemViews : 1516 Replies : 11Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 20th, 2010, 22:28 | #1 |
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'94 Volvo 850 paint problem
I have jusr acquired a very cheap low mileage Volvo 850. Although the interior of the car is in pristine condition, the exterior has areas of paint where the laquer has come off. The paintwork on the whole of the near side, and the roof is perfect, but the bonnet and off side is badly affected.
The car has obviously been looked after, so what has happened to cause the laquer to come off? Was there an issue with the paintwork on red '94 850's? Can anyone tell me how best to repair these areas without resorting to a full respray? |
Aug 21st, 2010, 18:22 | #2 | |
Bitty?
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my 96 is scabby on the front bumper and bonnet
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used to own:95&96 850 t5,Sumex Cone, Bailey DV, Reverse IC, IPD top mount, Ferrita cat back, forge blanking plate, strut brace, drilled/groovy disks, 350cc@3 bar blue tops, lowered, bilstein HD's front and rear.AlanM rear strut brace |
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Aug 21st, 2010, 18:32 | #3 |
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My blue one has the same prob so will be keen to find the answer
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Aug 22nd, 2010, 09:17 | #4 |
My 850 is pooooorly :(
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Well although I am no expert I would have to say that the only way to resolve peeling laquer would be to build layers of the laquer back up on the affected areas not an easy task in my honest opinion............................
You would have to sand the affected areas so there is no step from the laquer to the paint, then make good any damaged paint from sanding, then start layer by layer building the laquer back up, easier to do on a small area I would not like to attempt on the whole side of a car or even a whole bonnet come to think of it. Your best bet may well be a body shop, as it is only essentially re-applying the "finishing" layers it may welll not be anywhere near the price of a respray and obviously you can save even more if you ask them to what level it needs prepping and do that part yourself, then they are simply blowing the laquer over, I would get as many quotes as possible for this there will be a big difference between bodyshops, your cheapest bet would be a small one rather than a huge specialist. TCut etc will have no effect on this kind of problem so dont even waste your money and time trying. Of course the "best" finsih is going to be completely sanding the panel back to bare metal and then a full respray however this would probably end up costing more than the car is worth if you need to do multiple panels............ Last option for bonets, doors and any removeable panels is a tour of the scrappies to find good condition panels and simply swap them over may in the end work out to be the cheapest option and after a decent polish you would never know the difference
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Volvo 850 2.5 20 valve Estate Auto GLT Back Where I Belong In A Volvo Last edited by ChrisBro; Aug 22nd, 2010 at 09:20. |
Aug 22nd, 2010, 15:23 | #5 | |
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Aug 22nd, 2010, 17:43 | #6 | |
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Aug 22nd, 2010, 20:35 | #7 | |
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It seems that whatever I do, its not going to be worth it. The interior of the 850 is in such superb condition, and mechanically it seems sound as a bell, so maybe I should just drive it and enjoy. |
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Aug 22nd, 2010, 20:37 | #8 |
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Aug 23rd, 2010, 14:52 | #9 |
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As only one side of the car is affected,I would suggest that the car has been parked with the faded side and the bonnet in strong sunlight,you could try a medium cutting compound to shift the oxydisation(spelling?) and then a good wax,no quick fixs for the peeling other than rubbing down and re-laquering.You will be told that you can only do this to a complete panel.but if you can put up with a slight colour missmatch do just the effected area.
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1995 850 GLT 2.5 liter 20 valve,Turquise 1998 V90 Green/Black/Blue. Depends on the light. 2004 Alfa 156 , JTS. |
Sep 5th, 2010, 16:44 | #10 |
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I have just found an 850 in almost pristine condition, and in the same colour as my own 850, dumped in my local scrap yard. The bonnet is also in pristine condition, so I have bought it for £20, and will be removing tomorrow.
Can I expect any problems refitting in respect of its seating correctly into the holding down mechanisms? As the only way to test, is to close it down, I fear something may jam up and I am up the creek without a paddle. How much tolerance is there in the fitting? Is there any adjustment? Should I be really sensible and pay my local garage to fit, especially as I am getting on in years and the bonnet is heavy, and I ain't got no help, except my partner, whom I am sure will have a bad shoulder or whatever, when I ask for her assistance!! Oh yes, was £20 a fair price? |
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