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850 / S70 & V70 '96-'99 / C70 '97-'05 General Forum for the 850 and P80-platform 70-series models |
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new t5 feels underpoweredViews : 846 Replies : 6Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 6th, 2010, 11:25 | #1 |
New Member
Last Online: Sep 19th, 2010 14:02
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: wokingham
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new t5 feels underpowered
Hello all
Recently bought my 2nd classic T5 to replace the 1st classic T5. Got a new one for various reasons such as the heater doesn't work in the old one, paintwork isn't the best etc etc and I liked teh colour of teh new one and it generally feels tighter and nicer albeit with a couple of niggles for me to fix. Anyhow - Just back from my hols, a week in cornwall with the new T5 and it does not feel as quick and lively as teh old. Both autos, both the same year so should feel the same. Major diff being the new one has the sport economy snow gearbox buttons where the old only had snow and normal, but that should make no difference. My first thought is the turbo is gone, needs a new one, or would it be engine management? My Lambda light is always on, i hoped that was a sensor... I will post separtely later re my other niggles, which you always have when you learn a new (but old) car....... Overall though I do love a T5, just want the power back.... |
Sep 6th, 2010, 12:28 | #2 |
Grumpy Old Git
Last Online: Apr 19th, 2024 09:16
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South Yorkshire
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First thing to do is to get the fault codes read. It won't give you a definitive 'problem item' but will help in the diagnosis. Another possibility is to (with the ignition switched off) unplug the air mass meter. If the car runs better without it connected, then its likely this has failed - the fault codes should help to confirm this.
I'd also do a full 'Stage 0' service - this can often cure (and prevent) a huge list of running issues (Do a search, its been covered many times ). Don't forget the vacuum and PCV hoses - all worth doing. Finally, I'd change the lambda sensor too as these degrade over time resulting in poorer fuel economy - they don't always set a fault code, even when quite badly degraded as the ECU compensates for it to a certain extent. All in all, the parts could cost you close to £200, but it'll make your car more reliable, economical and hopefully responsive. One final thought is that your accelerator cable could be a bit stiff making the car feel sluggish - this also was covered recently. Hope this helps
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S40 2.4i '07 Japanese import '96 850R - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=312484 Ex Danish Embassy '96 940 GLE LPT - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=326071 |
Sep 6th, 2010, 12:33 | #3 |
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Last Online: Sep 19th, 2010 14:02
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wow great answer and big thanks i will start a list and post updates as i go along
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Sep 6th, 2010, 12:39 | #4 |
Grumpy Old Git
Last Online: Apr 19th, 2024 09:16
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: South Yorkshire
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No worries. My 850R was running 'OK' when I bought it off ebay - not great, just OK. I gave it a full Stage 0 service and hose replacement and it ran much more smoothly. Started more readily too - unbelievably, despite having a full dealer service history, it still had its original HT leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap!
I later changed the accelerator cable and that made it feel really rapid - in fact I now reckon its the most responsive car I've ever driven. I changed the lambda sensor a few months back now and the economy went from 22-23mpg to 26-27mpg over the same routes so it def needed doing. Get a quote from Rufe (FRF Volvo) - you can usually get genuine parts for less than pattern parts if you buy them from him. Great service too. Also check PartsForVolvo - they have the cheapest Volvo spark plugs IIRC. Good luck
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S40 2.4i '07 Japanese import '96 850R - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=312484 Ex Danish Embassy '96 940 GLE LPT - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=326071 |
Sep 6th, 2010, 13:04 | #5 |
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Last Online: Sep 19th, 2010 14:02
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Location: wokingham
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just dug this out and pasting here to help others..
Stage 0 Tune Up 1) Distributor Car + Rotor Arm (Replace) 2) Spark Plugs (Check / Replace) Note that the gaps are correct... .7mm turbo .9mm N/A 3) Engine Oil + Filters (Replace) 4) Ignition Leads (Check / Replace) 5) Gear Box Oil Inc Auto (Flush & Replace) 6) Air filter (Clean / Replace) 7) Engine Coolant (Replace) 8) Vac Hoses (Check / Replace) 9) 02 Sensors (Check / Replace) 10) Fuel System + Injectors (Fuel System Cleaner) 11) Intercooler and Piping (Check / Clean / Replace) Not all of the above relates to all models... |
Sep 6th, 2010, 14:06 | #6 | |
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Quote:
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Sep 6th, 2010, 18:07 | #7 |
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Last Online: May 7th, 2011 14:06
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Had it previously where the intercooler was not in good repair, the inlet charge temperature rose, and the ecu cut back the power to prevent detonation.
A 2nd hand intercooler sorted it. But. I agree, get fault codes read first, it should point you in the right direction. |
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