Replacing inner track rod

[acshortt5]

I will be replacing both the inner track rod and the outer track rod end on the drivers side at the weekend on my S70.

Having read the book of lies I feel confident in being able to sort the outer one but there is no info on doing the inner one. Anyone on here done it/knows how to do it (without taking the rack off).

Looking at pictures of the part it looks like it just unscrews from the rack, is this the case???

All thoughts/tips appreciated.

[Chris_Rogers]

Yes it does, you need to remove the gaitor.

The detail differs slightly between racks but you will need a large pair of stillsons and the room to wield them.

[Lancee]

Originally Posted by acshortt5

I will be replacing both the inner track rod and the outer track rod end on the drivers side at the weekend on my S70.

Having read the book of lies I feel confident in being able to sort the outer one but there is no info on doing the inner one. Anyone on here done it/knows how to do it (without taking the rack off).

Looking at pictures of the part it looks like it just unscrews from the rack, is this the case???

All thoughts/tips appreciated.

Had a go at doing both of mine although only one was worn (V70 d5), I found it very difficult to undo the inner ends from the steering rack, the outer track rod ends were no problem at all. The offside (inner end), which was the one with the most play, I eventually managed to do after modifying a large spanner, the nearside one was so difficult I decided to leave it be as it was not urgent, when I do eventually have it done I think I will pay the garage to do it ! Maybe I was unlucky but my advice would be anticipate some difficulty with the inners, then if all goes smoothly you can feel smug ! good luck I wish you well !!

[acshortt5]

Ok done. Here's a quick guide:

I jacked up both sides of the car to take any load off the steering rack.

Removed the appropriate wheel and then sprayed all the nuts with WD40 and then went for a coffee.

I have the TRW rack (marked "4" on the chassis plate - last digit of the 8 digit code on the bottom right of the plate) so those with an SRI rack (marked "5" on the chassis plate) may have some differences.

After the WD40 had soaked in I used a 21mm spanner to loosen the locking nut on the inner rod.

I then attacked the nut on the bottom of the ball joint of the track rod end. The nut is 18mm and the bit on the ball joint is 9mm to stop it rotating as you undo the nut.

I then removed the ball joint from the steering knuckle with use of a large hammer.

I then unscrewed the track rod end from the inner track rod and then removed the locking nut (which I kept safe as the new inner and outer bits didn't come with one).

I then gently removed the spring clip from the end of the rack gaitor then pulled off the gaitor using a lot of force - Jedi powers are helpful here! (There is actually a plastic cable tie on the rack end of the gaitor which you should try and cut off 1st).

You should now be able to see the inner rod. Do NOT use WD40 or any other spray as it might get into the rack which will be BAD.

I got out my pair of stillsons and adjusted them to the right setting using the new inner rod as a guide. I then put them on the rod on the car and hit the end with a hammer to loosen the inner rod. Once it was loose I simply unscrewed the inner rod from the rack.

Before putting the new inner rod in I made sure it was very clean with no bits of dust/grit etc on it. I then screwed it into the rack then used the stillsons and hammer to tighten it.

I then put the rack gaitor back on using a new cable tie at the rack end and reusing the spring clip at the outer end and made sure it was on securely.

I then copper greased the outer thread on the inner rod (to make future tracking adjustments easier) and then put the locking nut back on.

I then screwed the outer track rod end on by approximately the same amount as the old one had been. I then tightened the locking nut to hold it in place.

I then put the ball joint into the steering knuckle and put on the new securing nut (which came with the new track rod end) by using an 18mm spanner and counter holding the ball joint end with a 9mm spanner.

Once that was secure I went back and loosened the locking nut on the inner rod and using a 13mm spanner adjusted the tracking to approximately the right position by turning the inner rod. Once adjusted I tightened the locking nut (21mm).

I then double checked everything, put the wheel back on, dropped the car back down and tightened the wheel nuts.

Overall it took me about 3.5 hours.

I will now be taking the car to get the alignment checked at a garage using proper equipment.

I hope somone finds this guide useful but please note I accept no responsibility if you damage your car by following any part of this guide. If you are unsure of anything then my suggestion is to take it to a garage.

[osterly1]

i just did my outer track rod ends, took it for laser aligning , but they could not get it lined up, 3 times they have tried, then they suggested that it may be the left right play in the wheels , and called the mot tester over , he said the inners are clearly shot to pieces. so i got a pair form gsf for £34 ish , and now need to crack on with them , thought it woudl be easy by just unscrewing the old ones , but it apperas that its not goign to be that easy

[acshortt5]

Originally Posted by osterly1

i just did my outer track rod ends, took it for laser aligning , but they could not get it lined up, 3 times they have tried, then they suggested that it may be the left right play in the wheels , and called the mot tester over , he said the inners are clearly shot to pieces. so i got a pair form gsf for £34 ish , and now need to crack on with them , thought it woudl be easy by just unscrewing the old ones , but it apperas that its not goign to be that easy

My guide makes it look difficult because I've broken it down into easy to read sections. It really isn't that difficult to do. The hardest bit is getting the inner track rod loose as the bit you have to turn is a cylinder (can't use a spanner) so you have to use either stillsons or a pipe wrench.

I believe the later SMI rack inner rods have a section on them which you can get a spanner on to turn them. You can't just unscrew them from the outside as they have a ball joint - designed so you can turn it to make tracking adjustments easier.

[osterly1]

ok , just got mine off both sides, drivers side had some water in it , i guess condensation over the years , passenegers side rusty as hell , took about 30 minutes to get them off, now comes the annoying bit, the ones i have taken off have a bit where you can get a spanner on it, and have big threads to screw in , whereas my replacements are rounded , and have a smaller thread , so bloody gsf have given me the wrong part , and now my car is jacked up , gonna have to walk to work tommorow, great ,

but at least now i knwo which ones i need, one was flopping about all over the place, and passnegers side had a lot of play but was not as loose,

wish it was staurday so i could take em back and chaange them for the correct ones , but sods law its sunday bloody sunday and i'm stuffed !!!

but all in all a very easy job

[osterly1]

also noticed the drivers side, under the gator has liek a green plastic sleeve round the steering rack end, where as the passenegers side doesnt! is this normal? or should it be on both sides

many thanks