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123 Dizy

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Old Nov 4th, 2011, 10:08   #1
arcturus
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Default 123 Dizy

Forgot to mention that I have fitted a 123 electronic dizy in place of the old one. Made a huge difference. Much smoother at low speeds and no pinking under load. Better pick up all round. Having the electric power steering conversion fitted next week. Will let you know how that gets on. Now, if I could only get rid of the timeing gear clatter!
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Old Nov 4th, 2011, 13:11   #2
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Thanks for that info.
I have wondered whether these are worth the money as it is an expensive experiment however I do have a pinking issue with the 164 (twin carbs).
My other thought is to have my distributor reconditioned for which I have been quoted approx £100, but again I dont know if this would help.
I have bought a new timing light and at the moment retarding the ignition one degree at a time and now at 6 BTDC with both vacuum pipes off and plugged. Better, but still pinking on load, maybe one more degree will do it!
I did yesterday forget to refit the pipe from the manifold and drove with it still capped off. It seemed to pink a little less than when connected to the distributor.
Can anyone tell me if this is telling me that there is something wrong inside the distributor? Is it ok to drive with it disconnected and plugged off?
Jonathan
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Old Nov 4th, 2011, 14:27   #3
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Can't answer your question but I think that the 123 is well worth the money. They program the timing curve for regular unleaded and the specific engine.
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Old Nov 4th, 2011, 15:19   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woolfie1948 View Post
Thanks for that info.
I have wondered whether these are worth the money as it is an expensive experiment however I do have a pinking issue with the 164 (twin carbs).
My other thought is to have my distributor reconditioned for which I have been quoted approx £100, but again I dont know if this would help.
I have bought a new timing light and at the moment retarding the ignition one degree at a time and now at 6 BTDC with both vacuum pipes off and plugged. Better, but still pinking on load, maybe one more degree will do it!
I did yesterday forget to refit the pipe from the manifold and drove with it still capped off. It seemed to pink a little less than when connected to the distributor.
Can anyone tell me if this is telling me that there is something wrong inside the distributor? Is it ok to drive with it disconnected and plugged off?
Jonathan
Are you able to let me know what distributor you have in your Volvo? The last 3 numbers of the number on the side of the distributor. Yours has 2 vacuum units, does it?

You could be experiencing one of a number of problems there. A couple intial checks would be as follows:
  1. Check the condition of the vacuum units. Do this by sucking the pipe and making sure they maintain vacuum pressure.
  2. Check the condition of the mechanical advance by taking off the cap and grabbing hold of the rotor arm. You should be able to twist it with reasonable amount of tension, then let it go and it should spring back to its original position. If it won't twist, it's jammed and needs lubcricating. If it's floppy, you're in trouble because the individual parts are now obsolete

If you could let me know the Bosch number, I can find out if it is possible to repair it. However, it's possible that it is too far gone. Seeing as you're having to retard the timing to stop pinking, my guess is that your springs are sprung....

This thread I did in the Amazon section might be interesting for you: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=136261

@ Arcturus - What have you done with your old distributor? What are the last 3 numbers on the Bosch number and do you no longer have any use for it? Please?!
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Old Nov 4th, 2011, 16:01   #5
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Thanks swedishandgerman for your response.
Just went out and had a quick look but if there are numbers on the side they are not in a position to see without taking out the distibutor but yes it does have two two pipes going to the vacuum unit.
I did try to turn the rotor arm but it would only move a very small amount so I think you are correct it is jammed. I did put oil in the little capsule on the side and down the middle with the rotor arm off some weeks ago.
I aasume it will have to be stripped down to unjam it?
Dont know if I can do it myself but a company called H&H quoted £105 to recondition it if I cant.
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Old Nov 4th, 2011, 17:40   #6
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That's interesting - are you saying that you have 1 vacuum canister that has 2 pipes going into it?

You might be lucky and be able to free that in situ by putting in a load of nice thin oil into the shaft, via the felt pad underneath the rotor arm, followed by wiggling the shaft
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Last edited by swedishandgerman; Nov 4th, 2011 at 17:52.
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Old Nov 4th, 2011, 17:49   #7
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Another way to check is to use your timing light.

You said that you set it at idle. Whilst pointing your timing light at the marks and vac unit disconnected, increase the engine speed. You should notice the timing should advance

I'm not certain about the specific timing figures for your car, but maximum advance should be reached by about 2,500 - 3,000rpm where it should be at something like 30 to 35 degrees

If it doesn't advance, then your advance mechanism is jammed up

However, I am extremely interested in your vac unit with 2 ports. My thoughts are that you could have a unit that adjusts both advance AND retard by means of vacuum. If that's the case, then it's important that both pipes are connected to the correct port, because if you have the retard pipe connected to the advance port, then it'll pink like mad under load

You sure you're unable to get me that there number? You could try using a torch and a mirror or something. It shouldn't be too obscure
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Last edited by swedishandgerman; Nov 4th, 2011 at 20:33.
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Old Nov 4th, 2011, 20:32   #8
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Thanks for your comments.
It is one canister with two pipes going into it, and is exactly as shown in both Haynes and the green Volvo service manual so must be standard for this car.
They both show the connection nearest the distributor as for the tube from the intake manifold and the one furthest away as for the tube from the carburettors. The diagram shows two diaphrams inside the vacuum unit.
I will put the timng light on it tomorrow as you suggest and let you know the result.
According to the volvo parts manual the distributor should be part number 241532 for this ca rwith the B30A engine.
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Old Nov 4th, 2011, 22:17   #9
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Oh that's interesting. I've not worked on a 164 distributor before, so thanks for that

In answer to your question about leaving the pipes unattached - I would say that leaving the pipe from the manifold will make nodifference. However, you might notice reduced MPG and a slightly reduced throttle response if you leave the other one disconnected

I'll try to cross reference that Volvo number to find out the Bosch number

I might be able to get hold of a good 2nd hand distributor that I could recondition for you - please PM me if you're interested

Unfortunately, nowadays it is difficult to get hold of the individual parts, so I only rebuild the ones that aren't too far gone. I usually end up being unable to make good distributors with worn out springs as I don't know where to get replacements from

All said, I've never been in contact with H&H that you mentioned. So I might get in contact with them, so thank you for your introduction
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Old Nov 4th, 2011, 23:42   #10
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I will try again to find/read the bosch number in daylight however a little more research shows
Bosch distributor type is JFUR6 and volvo part number 241532 was superseded by 461660 but no idea when.
I have put light oil on the felt pad to soak in overnight.
Please can you tell me how far should I be able to twist the rotor arm.
Hope H&H is a useful contact for you - when I phoned they were most pleasant.
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