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Clean EGR pipe,now car will not start

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Old Jan 25th, 2020, 18:16   #1
dcwales
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Default Clean EGR pipe,now car will not start

I have 2005 d5 185 hp s60.

I decided to clean out the left hand pipe leading from the egr from today ( opposite side from the flap) as it never been done and thought it was a good idea . I really wish i had not now. .

Anyway, as it was full of soot I used a tooth brush and carb cleaner get the worse of it out . included a photo of it after i clean it.


I reassembled everything and not the car will not start.

The car will crank over but not start , no sign of it trying.

I have checked for any codes, got nothing .

The only thing I can see when I plug in a ODB reader and turn the ignition is the throttle position goes round to 90 and does not return to zero when turning on the ignition. I am assuming I been an idiot and disturbed something but at a total loss what to do next.

Has anybody any ideas of what I can check to see it I can cure this ?
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Old Jan 25th, 2020, 19:25   #2
dcwales
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Default two codes found

i have now two error codes if this helps

P0000 -pending fault
P2015 - intake manifold air control actuator sensor/switch bank 1
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Old Jan 25th, 2020, 19:37   #3
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did you disconnect any plugs to get the pipe off? maybe you forgot to reconnect something, think all you can do is get yourself a beer and enjoy your evening. tomorrow have a good look around where you was working and see if anything is unplugged or not put on correctly.
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 13:27   #4
dcwales
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Default Double checked Still Not Working

I am hoping for some more advice if possible as still cannot get the car to crank. it is a s60 2005 Euro 4 D5 185

I went out this morning to start from scratch on what I did yesterday to clear the air inlet pipe from the EGR.

I remove the pipe between the egr and inlet manifold.
I clean out any further the i could see in the EGR housing and the pipe and reconnected everything,

The car will turn over on the starter but thats all. No signs of any life.

I checked all of the connectors I could and replugged them in ( i never unplugged any connectors yesterday . Still no joy

The error code i get on my scanner is P2015. I tried disconnecting the battery leaving it for 30 mins, I have also tried unplugging the ECU.

I have removed the pipe from the air box into the throttle body carefully cleaning around the throttle flap but avoided touching it.

Reassembled every probably 3 times today and looked for any obvious connect problems.

A couple of things i have noticed this might not be relevant but on cranking the engine , even though it does not catch etc, i don't see any revs showing on the rev counter, not sure I should but thought maybe important.

The throttle body once the car ignition is switched off makes a noise, not sure if that is it calibrating etc but I have notice this noise before when switching the engine off ( ie before the fault occured ) just never knew where it came from. Think this is a red herring but thought I should mention it just in case

Any advice at all would truly be appreciated
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 16:15   #5
palwing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcwales View Post
A couple of things i have noticed this might not be relevant but on cranking the engine , even though it does not catch etc, i don't see any revs showing on the rev counter, not sure I should but thought maybe important.
Hi. I can’t help you much with your fault, but I have a 2007, S60 D5 185bhp, which is currently sitting doing very little on my drive as a 2nd car. I just nipped out to have a look at where you have been tinkering. I did try and start it and looked at the Rev counter as the engine was cranking. The rev counter did NOT move whilst the engine was cranking over, but did move once the engine burst into life.

Hope this helps in some small way and good luck.
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Old Jan 27th, 2020, 22:34   #6
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P2015 is your swirl flaps, more than likely the connecting/link rod. I've just had the same code on my car & when I looked in the engine bay, the swirl flap connecting/link rod (Shown in the second link below) had disconnected, so the flaps weren't opening or closing. This video shows you what's involved, although you don't have to go to that extent. You can buy a new link rod from Volvo for around £6, providing the little ball that it connects to is still there, as sometimes it falls off through general wear & tear. You can do a bit of DIY so to speak - People have used mig welding wire as an example to hold the link rod firmly in place. What happens is with the heat of the engine & general movement of the rod itself is the ball gets worn & the rod simply falls off. Although not ideal, a new link rod & a bit of DIY may be a cheaper fix for you. It could last, or it might fail again... Who knows? If it does fail, it didn't cost too much.

Have a quick look yourself... Lift the bonnet, take the grey engine cover off, look underneath the intake pipe & if you see the link rod hanging, that could be your problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6oPMhsO5qY

https://www.volvopartshop.com/volvo-...60-20800-p.asp (Example link rod)

If its your link rod, ring a Volvo dealership & give them your reg. Tell them you need a swirl flap link rod & they should know what you mean. When you get the new one, clip it onto the ball to see how tight it is. If its still loose, that means the ball is slightly worn & there would be no point putting it on to fall straight off again. However, you can squeeze the end of the new rod that connects to the ball with moderate force with a pair of nips to make it slightly smaller to fit snugly, then use something like wire to hold it in place. You might have to take the rod on & off a few times, squeeze it a bit more etc to make the rod fit the ball - Its trial & error really. Yes, people will say this is wrong etc etc, but the truth is, loads of people have done DIY fixes, as they're all over the internet.
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Old Jan 29th, 2020, 11:19   #7
dcwales
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Default Problem Resolved To Car Not Starting

Firstly thank you for all the replies and advice sincerely appreciated and helpful.

I eventually got the car backup and running yesterday after a lot of trial and errors. I thought it would be of value to share not only the fix but the lessons learnt for me anyway.

The car would crank but not start, no signs of life not a splutter.


This happened after I remove the EGR outlet pipe and clean it ( with Carb cleaner ) and the outlet side of the EGR . This seemed very straight forward job at the time and did it because the car had a slight hesitation now and again . It is a Euro 4 D5 and believe the EGR system is different to previous versions

The car fired back into life by using Quick Start directly into the engine via the inlet manifold ( ie I removed the EGR outlet pipe ). Once started I let the car completely warm up and made sure I revved it to clear out any dirt.

My local indy garage had suggested I try quick start and suspected that a couple of things had caused the problem.
  1. When cranking some of the loose dirt got into the inlet
  2. The EGR mechanism got stuck due to the carb cleaner softening the deposits

The lessons I have learnt from this
  1. When cleaning the EGR it is an all or nothing job .I thought taking off the pipe, clearing out the obvious dirt is a good enough job , it is not. Although I removed all the dirt , I probably moved some it further into the EGR system. So I would recommend if you do clean your EGR remove both the inlet and outlet pipes and put in the time and effort to totally clean and blow out ( I never did that ) to eliminate as much dirt as possible.
  2. Beware that you could soften the dirt when spraying carb cleaner that resides deep into the EGR flap that you cannot get to when cleaning with the EGR in place.
  3. Be really careful when removing the outlet EGR pipe , apart from having the battery disconnected, the pipe is tight against the wiring loom , also there is a connector tucked under the pipe.
  4. Don't over think the problem .I convinced myself I must have broken a wire or sensor taking the pipe out and starting heading off in the completely wrong direction.

I appreciate that I made the mistakes, but hope by sharing them it will help others avoid them.

On a positive note to end, the car now runs so much better. Hesitation has completely gone , acceleration is a lot smoother and can see from the instant fuel consumption figures a definite improvement.
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Old Jan 29th, 2020, 11:42   #8
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Thanks again for your excellent explanation of this interesting fault. I have done exactly the same as you on my 2005 D5 163bhp. Luckily it didn't stop working like yours. However, I might have a better go at it soon. Thanks again. Very informative and useful.
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Old Jan 29th, 2020, 21:39   #9
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Very interested in this. I had similar issues and a VIDA scan indicated an EGR signal low issue - possibly a stuck EGR. I too cleaned mine, cleaned the ETB right up. Easy to take off ( four bolts) and this cleaned up really nicely. This has helped the throttle response for sure.

I removed the throttle body and also the left hand solid plastic pipe that connects to the inlet. Cleaned both the pipe and through the EGR. It’s much cleaner than it was but the EGR wasn’t that bad to be honest. A lot of sticky tar but not a crazy amount.

Sadly I’m still getting EGR issues and it’s affecting performance. I don’t know if to have another go at cleaning as I didn’t forcibly move the “trumpet” valve inside the body. Just cleaned it all up. If this can’t be moved I still need to look at the stepper motor and see if this is failing to move the valve.

I really hoped my work work fix the issue, as it seems to in every case I’ve read/viewed. And as I said, mine wasn’t THAT bad.

So I’m kind of back to square one. Economy not quite good enough, performance often affected (especially when warm and with cruise set) so I’m desperate to try and resolve this!

Anyone else more ideas please?
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