V70: - revs dropping whilst idling can you help?

shallgarth · Sep 17th, 2009, 17:42

There's some pretty wise people on this site it would seem and I'm hoping one of them can help.

I bought my V70 ('97 plate, 10V auto, 2435cc) about two months ago knowing it needed a bit of attention but it had passed its MOT only a week before so expected it to be drivable at least. I've slowly been replacing bits and pieces as I go (this is my first car so nothing major.)

I've been having major problems with spluttering, the revs dropping and eventually the engine cutting out when I shift between drive, neutral and reverse (and any of the low gear modes.) I noticed a crack in the air intake hose so replaced it yesterday and cleaned out the valve but it strill seems to be happening. I did notice that there was a lot of gunk in the end of the idle air control hose which I cleaned out the best I could.

The car seems fine going at speed, its going around town that seems to effect her and she doesn't like driving for more than 20mins or so.

I'm getting a full service as soon as possible but need the car for work over the next two weeks. Is there anyone out there who has any ideas of how I can keep her on the road till she's gets to the garage?

Also does anyone know how to get in touch with Volvomax in Glasgow? they NEVER answer their phone!

Cheers for taking the time to read this post.

Chris_Rogers · Sep 17th, 2009, 18:23

First thing to do is to clean the idle air valve and the throttle ody.

Remove the flame trap also.

You should find 'how to's' for this in the articles section of this forum.

and here:

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/ftrap.php

FCPGroton · Sep 17th, 2009, 20:06

Could be the MAF or the FPR. I would clean the MAF to see if that helps. If it doesn't, get a fuel pressure gauge to see if the fuel pressure is dropping.

Chris_Rogers · Sep 17th, 2009, 21:46

There is no MAF on a 10V car.

shallgarth · Sep 18th, 2009, 15:51

Cheers for the replies but I already tried cleaning everything i could get at when i replaced the air intake.

By FPR i take it you mean the Fuel Pressure Regulator? can this be cleaned or will it just need a straight replacement if faulty. My Haynes doesn't seem to give me any advice here.

What i cant understand is why this only happens after i've switched between reverse or neutral to drive. If i take the car out and only use drive (just keeping my foot on the brake at lights etc.) the car seems fine.

much confusion.

ocean238 · Sep 18th, 2009, 15:59

I think it can also be a blocked/ leaking vaccum line somewhere along the line.

Check to see if your vacuum line which comes out of the air box (it's the small rubber pipe, it goes from the top of the box towards the front of the car to the engine) is sucking enough air, it could be blocked for any problems causing the car to stall, so unplug it to see if it does the same (don't leave it unplugged as it will suck in dirt)

Your electrics working ok?

FPR should just be replaced, although on a 97 car i think they are the more expensive type.

These are the things i would start looking at

FCPGroton · Sep 18th, 2009, 18:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris_Rogers

There is no MAF on a 10V car.

The 10V cars are not fuel injected?

Chris_Rogers · Sep 18th, 2009, 19:27

Yes they are, but use intake air temperature and manifold pressure to regulate injection.

Chris_Rogers · Sep 18th, 2009, 19:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by shallgarth

Cheers for the replies but I already tried cleaning everything i could get at when i replaced the air intake.

By FPR i take it you mean the Fuel Pressure Regulator? can this be cleaned or will it just need a straight replacement if faulty. My Haynes doesn't seem to give me any advice here.

What i cant understand is why this only happens after i've switched between reverse or neutral to drive. If i take the car out and only use drive (just keeping my foot on the brake at lights etc.) the car seems fine.

much confusion.

But did you actually remove the thottle body and idle air valve to clean them?

Was the idle air valve shutter nice and 'floppy'?

Jod T5 · Sep 18th, 2009, 23:31

How does the temp gauge behave...In view of the fact it runs fine for 20 mins would alert my interest towards the coolant temperature sensor, and/or thermostat....

Jod

Sep 17th, 2009, 17:42	#1
shallgarth New Member Last Online: Jun 21st, 2011 17:31 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Glasgow	revs dropping whilst idling can you help? There's some pretty wise people on this site it would seem and I'm hoping one of them can help. I bought my V70 ('97 plate, 10V auto, 2435cc) about two months ago knowing it needed a bit of attention but it had passed its MOT only a week before so expected it to be drivable at least. I've slowly been replacing bits and pieces as I go (this is my first car so nothing major.) I've been having major problems with spluttering, the revs dropping and eventually the engine cutting out when I shift between drive, neutral and reverse (and any of the low gear modes.) I noticed a crack in the air intake hose so replaced it yesterday and cleaned out the valve but it strill seems to be happening. I did notice that there was a lot of gunk in the end of the idle air control hose which I cleaned out the best I could. The car seems fine going at speed, its going around town that seems to effect her and she doesn't like driving for more than 20mins or so. I'm getting a full service as soon as possible but need the car for work over the next two weeks. Is there anyone out there who has any ideas of how I can keep her on the road till she's gets to the garage? Also does anyone know how to get in touch with Volvomax in Glasgow? they NEVER answer their phone! Cheers for taking the time to read this post.

Sep 17th, 2009, 20:06	#3
FCPGroton Trader Last Online: Nov 29th, 2015 20:12 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Old Saybrook, CT	Could be the MAF or the FPR. I would clean the MAF to see if that helps. If it doesn't, get a fuel pressure gauge to see if the fuel pressure is dropping. __________________ FCP Euro Andrew Owendoff Communications Facilitator +1.877.634.0063 Get 10% off your order, use coupon code VOLVOFORUMUK : FCP Euro Official Car Parts Website <- Click

Sep 18th, 2009, 15:51	#5
shallgarth New Member Last Online: Jun 21st, 2011 17:31 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Glasgow	good advice but... Cheers for the replies but I already tried cleaning everything i could get at when i replaced the air intake. By FPR i take it you mean the Fuel Pressure Regulator? can this be cleaned or will it just need a straight replacement if faulty. My Haynes doesn't seem to give me any advice here. What i cant understand is why this only happens after i've switched between reverse or neutral to drive. If i take the car out and only use drive (just keeping my foot on the brake at lights etc.) the car seems fine. much confusion.

Sep 18th, 2009, 23:31	#10
Jod T5 Phoenix from the ashes Last Online: Apr 24th, 2024 01:05 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Finchingfield	How does the temp gauge behave...In view of the fact it runs fine for 20 mins would alert my interest towards the coolant temperature sensor, and/or thermostat.... Jod __________________ Dum Spiro Spero VOC 20419

Sep 17th, 2009, 18:23	#2
Chris_Rogers VOC Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2017 16:55 Join Date: Jan 1970 Location: South Kent Coast	First thing to do is to clean the idle air valve and the throttle ody. Remove the flame trap also. You should find 'how to's' for this in the articles section of this forum. and here: http://volvospeed.com/Repair/ftrap.php

Sep 17th, 2009, 21:46	#4
Chris_Rogers VOC Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2017 16:55 Join Date: Jan 1970 Location: South Kent Coast	There is no MAF on a 10V car.

Sep 18th, 2009, 15:59	#6
ocean238 Senior Member Last Online: Aug 15th, 2011 23:17 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Stockholm, Sweden	I think it can also be a blocked/ leaking vaccum line somewhere along the line. Check to see if your vacuum line which comes out of the air box (it's the small rubber pipe, it goes from the top of the box towards the front of the car to the engine) is sucking enough air, it could be blocked for any problems causing the car to stall, so unplug it to see if it does the same (don't leave it unplugged as it will suck in dirt) Your electrics working ok? FPR should just be replaced, although on a 97 car i think they are the more expensive type. These are the things i would start looking at

Sep 18th, 2009, 19:27	#8
Chris_Rogers VOC Member Last Online: Apr 10th, 2017 16:55 Join Date: Jan 1970 Location: South Kent Coast	Yes they are, but use intake air temperature and manifold pressure to regulate injection.

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