FORTE seal conditioner

[Max HEADVROOM]

has anyone use this with success?..

i had a core seal leak that i thought was a main bearing seal, so i bought some forte but then got the leak done properly.

now im stuck with the forte and wonder if it would do any good for the other seals if i put it in... or will it do more harm than good??

TIA.

Al.

[green van man]

A lot of those seal conditioners swell and soften the seal, how that affects longevity I don't know but would suggest it is only a temporary fix.

I had the bottom seal of the landrover steering box weep, trying to hang it on untill the chassis change I used a lucas product that purported to do the same thing and stop leaks. It did for about 2 weeks and then the leak was back. In the end I bit the bullet and fitted the new box I had procured for the new chassis.

Long term the only cure is new seal and possibly dressing of the seal landing. No point fitting a new crank seal if the crank is scored, the scoring will quickly wreck the new seal. Any decent machine shop will dress the seal journels as well as the bearing ones when grinding a crank.

Years ago I had a Ford crossflow that constantly wept oil from the front pulley. Pulled the pulley off to change the seal and found a Grove 3 mm deep around the pulley boss. Not having a spare and needing the car I dressed the boss with a file to remove the Grove and then polished it with a sisal mop and compound to a mirror finish. It was 40,000 miles later before even an oil mist got past that seal.
I learned the lesson and now if it leaks it's renewed properly, anything else is short term stop gap.

Paul.

[Ian21401]

Originally Posted by green van man

A lot of those seal conditioners swell and soften the seal, how that affects longevity I don't know but would suggest it is only a temporary fix.

I had the bottom seal of the landrover steering box weep, trying to hang it on untill the chassis change I used a lucas product that purported to do the same thing and stop leaks. It did for about 2 weeks and then the leak was back. In the end I bit the bullet and fitted the new box I had procured for the new chassis.

Long term the only cure is new seal and possibly dressing of the seal landing. No point fitting a new crank seal if the crank is scored, the scoring will quickly wreck the new seal. Any decent machine shop will dress the seal journels as well as the bearing ones when grinding a crank.

Years ago I had a Ford crossflow that constantly wept oil from the front pulley. Pulled the pulley off to change the seal and found a Grove 3 mm deep around the pulley boss. Not having a spare and needing the car I dressed the boss with a file to remove the Grove and then polished it with a sisal mop and compound to a mirror finish. It was 40,000 miles later before even an oil mist got past that seal.
I learned the lesson and now if it leaks it's renewed properly, anything else is short term stop gap.

Paul.

That must have taken you a while Paul.

[green van man]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

That must have taken you a while Paul.

Not realy 3 hours or so if memory serves, secret is a good quality file and smooth strokes useing all the file. The sisal mop I had would take rusty bar to mirror finish in 10 minuits
It was mounted on a home made jig using an old washing machine motor, more preasure against the wheel and the quicker it came off, light preasure gave the mirror finish.
Of course you got filthy with the compound being thrown off the mop and rigger gloves were nessesary to cope with the heat. Don't know what H&S would make of the set up but I didn't ask..

Paul.