Loss of coolant and head gaskets ......

[bob12]

Originally Posted by loki_the_glt

I bought a recon'ed Bosch 100 Amp from QX for £94 delivered last month.

For the life of me I can think what/who 'QX' is?

[Laird Scooby]

That's the one i was thinking of then, fairly certain it's a LHD diagram.

Most of it is the same on RHD except for the heater hoses, they have to come round the back of the engine to the heater matrix. The lower heater matrix hose joins up with the metal pipe that runs under the exhaust manifold to the water pump at the front and at the back, round the back of the head and appears somewhere near the rear end of the inlet manifold.
The higher heater matrix hose (that goes through the valve in the cabin) joins either the cylinder or inlet manifold where the coolant comes out of that part.

Still can't remember enough to do a sketch but hopefully between that description and the heiroglyphics in Haynes, you'll be able to put 2 and 2 together.

I may have that description a bit wrong, been several years since i saw a B2x0 in the metal but i'm sure if i have, someone will correct me!

[bob12]

Seems from observation that it doesn't 'leak' coolant until/as it cools down and, due to engine undertray, I can't fcuking see where it's coming from except for a blue water drip from the rear central hole on the on the undertray.

Spoke and delivered said car to Joe at the garage this morning to be fixed!!!! I could to it perfectly but why waste my time.

Now driving around (it would seem on air!!) in a small metallic green Cleo auto. Typically French (never French again for me after my Peugeot 505 Family Estate of the 1980's). The fuel gauge on the Cleo when 'off' rests a max and then when 'on' moves down to the (correct??) tank level.

[Laird Scooby]

Sounds suspiciously like the water pump Bob - fine when it's running but the seals are weak and letting by when it cools down and leaking out of the tell-tale hole in the nose of it.

Won't leak while running because it will be pulling air in.

Just my theory based on what you've said so far or it may be a pipe on the suction side of the pump e.g. heater return to pump via that metal pipe that runs under the exhaust manifold.

[bob12]

Well Dave ... I like that comment A LOT as it fits in with my thoughts. No problem with the the heater return pipe.

I had suspected the new pump front seal might have gone bad (after only 450 miles!) as when cooled a very little of the blue coolant was lying on the visible fin of the pump structure and clearly not (?) from the top 'O' ring top seal (or elsewhere from the heater pipe return seal). As said the blue coolant on the fins of the structure of the pump body to my mind could have only got there from a 'front' leakage, but without removing the fan you can't see under the fan hub.

We await a new dawn tomorrow.

[Laird Scooby]

Will be interesting to see the outcome Bob!

[bob12]

Dave, you might have surmised from another post of mine today that the loss of coolant problem on the 745 was easily solved

Nothing as sophisticated as the new pump seals relaxing on engine cool down, but the usual 'Redblock' problem of the top pump 'O' ring weeping and dripping behind the cambelt cover where you couldn't see it easily.

It then tricked down the block under cover of the cambelt cover until it dripped onto the engine under-tray where it puddled and dripped on to the ground via the hole at the back end of the tray!

Anyway Joe took the lot to bits again and after some new gaskets it's just fine (at the moment!) ... and at no cost (Joe muttering silly design as I drove off).

[Stephen Edwin]

I'm glad you have found and fixed the leak.

For detecting obscure obdurant leaks like this, has anyone tried UV dye in the coolant? My Draper hand held COB LED work light has a UV option for that purpose. I shall probably buy some of the dye in case I need it.

Off Topic: It's an excellent work light. Even fixes by magnets to the trolley jacks as they go under the jam jar. I keep it handy in case I might need for example to fix it by magnet to a wing over any wheel that needs changing. But I guess most LED work lights do that sort of thing.

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[Laird Scooby]

I wondered about that "O" ring Bob but misunderstood another post earlier in the thread so i thoght it had been checked and/or replaced so said nowt.

Glad it's sorted now anyway!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

Off Topic: It's an excellent work light. Even fixes by magnets to the trolley jacks as they go under the jam jar. I keep it handy in case I might need for example to fix it by magnet to a wing over any wheel that needs changing. But I guess most LED work lights do that sort of thing.

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I know the sort of thing you mean. I have an older sort of jump pack that originally came with a 17Ah battery and a modified torch reflector/lens assembly with aa small, screw-in (MES) 12v, 4W (think it was 4W) bulb.

When the battery went, i upgraded it to a 20Ah (largest i could squeeze in), renewed the croc clips on the end of the jump leads and confined the torch style lens to the bin, replacing it with a 12v 10W LED floodlight from China-bay for something like £3 delivered.

That gives an amazing amount of bright, white light.