Amazon: Rear drum problem

[Gary Byrne]

Chaps. My son has a 1964 121 that needs work on the nearside rear drum but I simply can't remove the damn thing using my normal Amazon hub puller. I bought the hydraulic version that was raved about on this forum a few months ago, but when I came to use it last Saturday found the internal piston didn't actually move. Probably a dud sample? That soon ended up in the bin! Anyway I'm now considering cutting off the drum and fitting a replacement, but Simon at Brookhouse tells me that early drum braked Amazon's have a different rear drum than later versions. Firstly does anybody have a spare drum they'd be willing to sell? Failing that does anybody know if a later Amazon complete rear axle is a straight swap? Thanks guys.

[Faust]

Have a look at Ron’s guide:

http://www.sw-em.com/Brake_Drum_Notes.htm

Excellent information about drums and all the hassles they give (hope Ron doesn’t mind me supplying the link). Also, do a forum search… LOTS of people have had problems with their rear drums.

You have slacked the handbrake adjuster right off?

You have removed the split pin & big castellated nut?

First time I took my drums off I found they were stuck. 34mm socket, DeWalt impact gun (battery type), proper Amazon hub puller and it was off with a 'POP' in a matter of seconds!

[old fart]

I was told that the best way to remove drums is to bolt up the puller until it is about 1mm from the drum, and the tighten the nuts in turn across the drum, as the force being applied at a slight angle works better. This method has worked for me every time, when just tightening up and thumping with a big hammer could take a couple of weeks.
Good luck
Andy.

[swedishandgerman]

Originally Posted by old fart

I was told that the best way to remove drums is to bolt up the puller until it is about 1mm from the drum, and the tighten the nuts in turn across the drum, as the force being applied at a slight angle works better. This method has worked for me every time, when just tightening up and thumping with a big hammer could take a couple of weeks.
Good luck
Andy.

Same here! That slight angle works proper.

[classicswede]

I've never failed to remove a drum but I do have a very beefy puller

[Gary Byrne]

Thanks for the tips guys. I've taken the drum off my 131 many times using my puller but I've never tried the method involving tightening up the wheel nuts so I'll give that a go. Thanks for the link too Faust

[grahamwatson]

Using the wheel nuts never worked for me. In fact I could not see how the relatively coarse and small diameter wheel nut thread could match the force which could be applied through a proper puller. At least not without damage to the wheel nut or stud.

It was the hydraulic puller which did it for me, though not until I had adapted it to take a socket and decent length bar. If I were you (and if you are still stuck) I'd dig yours out of the bin and get it working!

[Ron Kwas]

Gary;

I have to agree with Graham on both counts...the non-concentric application of tension applied by the lugnut method might be successful if the Drumhub was not on very well in the first place, but it will surely not work if it is on properly, and will be hopelessly inadequate with a stubborn Drum.

I'd also recommend using the hydraulic Puller, and if you really binned a hydraulic puller for non-function, before checking it out, why do you own a vintage car in the first place? Point of fact: That hydraulic puller has less moving parts than an SU carb!!!

Good Hunting!

Faust; ...why would I mind?...thanks for the recommendation!

[Gary Byrne]

Well I tried the wheel nut method but it didn't work! My bin's not been emptied yet so maybe I'll try salvaging my discarded hydraulic puller?

[grahamwatson]

Originally Posted by Gary Byrne

Well I tried the wheel nut method but it didn't work! My bin's not been emptied yet so maybe I'll try salvaging my discarded hydraulic puller?

You should! You said the piston isn't moving. I have had another look at mine. The piston is certainly very stiff when turning the handle clockwise, but it does move. There will be some gearing going on, so it does not move very quickly.

And it does not automatically withdraw when the handle is turned anti clockwise. To get the piston back in I have to hit it with a hammer. Unlikely to do any damage as long as you are careful with the thread. Don't try this on your SU's though.