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Restoring Bosch "003" Distributor for 1800S

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Old Apr 27th, 2018, 11:37   #1
fishyboy
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Default Restoring Bosch "003" Distributor for 1800S

Hi all,
My 1968 1800S has had the wrong distributor (one for a B20A) on it since I have owned the car (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/archi.../t-196277.html). I have now got hold of a "003" non-vacuum advance distributor which needs a rebuild. I have already been given some great advice by "swedishandgerman" (thanks Adam) and read thru Ron Kwas's rebuild description (see below).

Rather than contacting these two directly via PM's I thought it would be good to document my questions in a post.

1) When putting the main pieces of the dizzy back together what grease and oil should I use (see for lubrication points figure from Ron's article)

2) I removed the C-clip which holds the cam to the main shaft using Ron's method, but how do I put it back together? (I made the mistake of not removing the two CA return springs before doing this and they promptly flew across the garage - eventually found!).

3) The fibre washers which supports the CA weights had disintegrated. Does anyone know the dimensions for a replacement. Are they just standard fibre washers? Is the thickness critical?

4) I lost one of the C-clips which holds the CA weights in place. I've ordered a several different sizes of which 'i hope one will fit. does anyone know the correct size?

5) Are the two different springs which return the CA weights interchangeable between the two posts?

Thanks
Phil

These are some useful webpages to help with the rebuild:-
1) Swedishandgerman's distributor service guide
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...=280679&page=2
2) Ron Kwas's rebuild description
http://sw-em.com/Volvo%20Ignition%20from%20Scratch.htm
3) Dismantling a Bosch 010
http://ranchotransaxles.com/rebuildi...ibutor-part-i/
4) Assembling a Bosch 010
http://ranchotransaxles.com/rebuildi...butor-part-ii/
Attached Images
File Type: jpg dist_lurication.jpg (19.8 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 003 Dizzy.jpg (43.7 KB, 6 views)
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Old Apr 27th, 2018, 13:58   #2
swedishandgerman
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Hi Phil

I'm not sure of the answers to 2 and 4. I use 3-in-1 oil for everything in there including oiling the felt and the oiler on the side. I use a little smear of normal grease on the cam, but not very much at all.

The felt washer is difficult to get hold of so I'm told. I've never had to replace, but the only place I've ever seen them listed was at Roger Bray Restorations for Porsche which happens to be down the road from me here in Exeter. But I don't see it on his website now, so may be worth a phone call.

https://www.rogerbrayrestoration.com...engine/page/3/

I think the springs are not the same, but that varies from distributor to distributor. I know that in a Beetle distributor the weights and springs are different. Not sure in a Volvo one; I only ever put them back together in exactly the same order that they came apart in.
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Old Apr 27th, 2018, 14:32   #3
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Thanks Adam

Gave "Roger Bray" a call and they have a couple of washers in their distributor shim kit (https://www.rogerbrayrestoration.com...r-distributor/). However, I'm not pay £65 for just the two washers I need. Ones I ordered from the net have just arrived and look very similar. Hopefully they will work.

Phil
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Old Apr 27th, 2018, 16:12   #4
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fb;

Thank you for the reference!

1. I'd use engine oil on all surfaces except Points Rubbing Block to Lobeshaft, where I'd use the tiniest bit of grease from an ancient tube of "Lubricam" product I have just for that (its a heavy, high temp waxy grease, which stays put where applied, so that's what I'd recommend for those who don't have a tube of this product).

2. Circlip may indeed be launched when using the "Removing the Circlip" technique shown in the shop manuals:

...but I don't see how Circlip can be launched using my preferred method...the drift captures it!

Replace Circlip by placing on Shaftend (don't forget Washer!...see below!), then pushing into retaining slot with either two small screwdrivers working at once or a circular drift with ID which just clears Shaftend. Prelube before reassembly!

3. ID of fibre washers is that of Post, OD is not critical and can be taken from my pictures, thickness is certainly important...they are specialized and possibly "standard"...I'll see if I can measure some and post result...(measured thickness: 0.040" see link!)...important is that Lubeshaft action is smooth and without steps or binding (check and assure before finally assembly with Circlip)...spacer ring on central shaft sets height, so this is important also!

4. This is precision work! ...first requirement is that you work with care and methodically, using good basic shop practice and tools...this is not rocket science, but if you can't do this at level of care, without loosing small parts, I question if anyone can help you...sorry!

5. CA Springs are different as one can clearly see...one contributes force starting from idle, the other (with extended loop) only contributes force over a certain RPM because of that loop. I would not change their positions on reassembly, because fine advance curve adjustment is implemented by slightly bending those posts (which would therefore make each post unique per spring). That helps you little now, when things are apart, but part of "care and methodically using good basic shop practice" means that when taking something apart, which might go back together multiple ways, marking things to assure identical reassembly is part of of that practice... You can possibly make some measurements (post to lobeshaft) to see how different the two post are (it wont be much), or carefully inspect rubbing surfaces of post for clues...maybe you can find some forensic evidence to help with correct reassembly...finally. if you're lucky, your components will exhibit similar punched marking as in the pic, and you can reassemble per that...otherwise, just reassemble in one of two ways, and study and observe action before locking the assembly together with circlip and trying it dynamically with timing light, to note advance curve, while Dist is installed and operating on the engine...

I just added this picture, plus additional info, to Ignition Service Article: http://www.sw-em.com/Volvo%20Ignitio...ponent_Details


I Hope this helps and you don't feel I beat you up too much...Good Hunting!

Last edited by Ron Kwas; Apr 27th, 2018 at 16:16.
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Old Apr 27th, 2018, 18:01   #5
fishyboy
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Thanks Ron,

The clip that jumped out was one of the two C-clips (or probably more correctly the E-clips) which locks in the weights and clips onto the top of the the two CA weight posts. It was one of the two CA springs which jumped out when using your method. Clearly I should have removed them first.

Fortunately I took a photo once the contact plate was off and using this along with your new picture I have been able to reconstruct the original spring and weight positions.

I'll polish up that cam and try to get it all back together next week.

Thanks for your help.

Phil
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