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V40 Rear brake pads change.

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Old Mar 1st, 2015, 22:50   #11
tenacex
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Thumbs down Poor brake performance

Hey guys, sorry for digging this thread up, but I found it really useful and thought I could ask a couple of questions. I did this exact job as you all described it and now my handbrake is incredibly loose (I can pull it up all the way) and it barely slows the car down. The brakes have also definitely not even come close to performing well. I used to be able to skid with my handbrake, so I am assuming something is wrong. Is there something I should adjust? Should I drive backwards and slam on the brakes? I also noticed you guys said to release the bleeder valve when recompressing the piston with the proper tool but I forgot to do that. Could that be my problem? I did undo the brake fluid cap while compressing like most guides say. Thank you to anyone who helps!
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Old Mar 1st, 2015, 23:19   #12
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I've never released the bleed nipple when pushing the piston in, I know you're really supposed to but it's something I always remember afterwards, never caused me an issue.

When you wound the piston back, was it a smooth movement or did it seem to stick? Take the caliper off and check if the piston is moving whilst someone presses the brakes.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2015, 08:45   #13
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Check the little levers on the callipers rest on their stops when the handbrake is off. If not, there is your problem. They are either seized/sticking or the handbrake cable needs adjusting until they make contact.

Once they do you should be able to pump the brake pedal firmly several times to adjust the mechanism up (handbrake off!).

Cautionary note; Diesels will destroy their own brake seals if you stand on the brakes with the engine running and the vehicle stationary.

In future when winding back the piston, fit the new pads to the disc and measure the thickness and then wind the piston back that far.
This helps avoid having no handbrake afterwards as the self adjust mechanism cannot cope with large adjustments required with a fully retracted piston.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2015, 11:42   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenacex View Post
Hey guys, sorry for digging this thread up, but I found it really useful and thought I could ask a couple of questions. I did this exact job as you all described it and now my handbrake is incredibly loose (I can pull it up all the way) and it barely slows the car down. The brakes have also definitely not even come close to performing well. I used to be able to skid with my handbrake, so I am assuming something is wrong. Is there something I should adjust? Should I drive backwards and slam on the brakes? I also noticed you guys said to release the bleeder valve when recompressing the piston with the proper tool but I forgot to do that. Could that be my problem? I did undo the brake fluid cap while compressing like most guides say. Thank you to anyone who helps!
See link in string below on how to remove console to adjust slack on handbrake
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=218487
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Old Mar 2nd, 2015, 13:07   #15
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Park the car and catch a bus
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Old Mar 2nd, 2015, 13:51   #16
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It can sometimes take a while for the rear brakes to re-adjust themselves after they have been wound back, but they should adjust eventually. They should also improve as the new pads "bed in" . Heavy braking sometimes helps !
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