Spring compressors

dgbalfour · Jul 6th, 2006, 18:31

In the not too distant future I will be swapping the front springs on my 1991 SE to the GLT spec ones. To do this, and for some suspension work on other cars, I am looking at buying a spring compressor.

Can anybody recommend one, or is there a certain type I should avoid? I've seen a 10" Draper one, will this be long enough?

Many thanks,

David

tuning_redblock · Jul 6th, 2006, 19:21

hello david, funny you should be doing this, I'm doing it at this very minute.

Best way of doing it is with the draper ones, I believe mine are the 10inch ones, but most importantly they are the ones you don't need a socket for, you can put an extension bar straight into the end of the threaded bar and just connect to a normal socket wrench.

Oh and investing in a 24mm offset ring spanner for the top nut, or some air tools would be advisable as well

regards andi

Mike_Brace · Jul 6th, 2006, 22:00

When changing springs I would recommend loosening the 24mm nuts till the nyloc part is of the thread (but obviously not fully) while the weight of the car is still on them. I prefer to remove strut to ensure spring compressors are safely fitted and compressing equally. You have to be careful of brake pipe fittings - give them a good soaking first. It is possible to change springs just by dropping the top but I find it difficult and don't like taking chances over compressing springs - they can kill! Also don't forget to mark position at top and ideally have 4 wheel alignment done afterwards not just tracking.
Best of luck.

Mike

Jul 6th, 2006, 22:20

I did a job a few months ago, compressing springs with £4.99 ebay compressors.

Trust me this isn't a area ya want to be in if you suffer from stress & general fear of compressed springs.

The job I had (Allways the pro me

) you took the strut off completely then took it to a bench for fettling..... I used a Black & decker workmate & whilst I did complete the task, I did have a compressor ping off on me & it sent a 14mm nut thro the air at about 1000Mph ...... Lucky it didn't hit me ......... I freakin' heared it whizz past my ear tho ........ It lodged itself in next doors wooden fence......... Umm so ........ I suggest ya pays more than £4.99 for yas compressors AND don't give me the job to do

Jul 7th, 2006, 01:31

Changed front shocks on my S40 recently and it was a mare to get the top nut undone (did not have the proper volvo tool to hold the strut), with no air gun what I did is to with car on the ground first used lots of wd40 on the nut, then used offset ring spanner on the nut and something on the other end to act as an extension then gripped the strut with mole grips very tight and wedged it against some wood so it couldn't move and gave the spanners on a nut a big sharp smack with a mallet to shock it off. This may help you although different car. Spring compressors on mine, were fine, can't remember how much they cost but for sure was a fair bit more than £5!! They've got the thing so you can put a 1/2" rachet in the end like someone above said.

Pete

Andrew (UK) · Jul 7th, 2006, 08:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike_Brace

...ideally have 4 wheel alignment done afterwards not just tracking.
Best of luck.

Mike

Sorry but unless I have missed something, the rear wheels have no adjustment possible. Now if you can find a place that will adjust the camber as well as the tracking on the fronts that would be advisable. But as far as I know 4 wheel aligment is just not possible on a 200 series car.

Andrew

Glen Morangie · Jul 7th, 2006, 10:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andrew (UK)

Sorry but unless I have missed something, the rear wheels have no adjustment possible. Now if you can find a place that will adjust the camber as well as the tracking on the fronts that would be advisable. But as far as I know 4 wheel aligment is just not possible on a 200 series car.

Yes - but the tracking adjustment is not always equal left and right.

For example if the overall toe in is +4mm, it may be best with 2.5mm one side and 1.5mm the other. I can't remember what the numbers are.

Mike_Brace · Jul 7th, 2006, 22:29

Yes rear not adjustable but front is set off the rears.

Mike

Les, slight limp · Jul 8th, 2006, 08:23

I've got a 12 volt wheel nut remover from woolworths, 14.99, i find it's just the job for head bolts, suspension bolts etc, i find proper impact guns are too brutal and will snap a rusted up bolt, the cheapo one only gives half the whack but i find 5 or 6 hits and the nut/bolt comes undone, i haven't snapped anything yet with it, and as long as you use impact sockets (the black 6 point ones) it works great.

Jul 8th, 2006, 15:32

I used a laser 3 piece set bought from an Ebay dealer which was very reassuring. They have locking arms to lock each compressor onto the spring to stop the comp from moving. Price was about £20 plus postage. Having used cheaper ones in the past and lost a spring (next doors MK2 cavalier stopped it....) I was more confident in my new ones.

Jul 6th, 2006, 18:31	#1
dgbalfour VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 20:51 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Bedford	Spring compressors In the not too distant future I will be swapping the front springs on my 1991 SE to the GLT spec ones. To do this, and for some suspension work on other cars, I am looking at buying a spring compressor. Can anybody recommend one, or is there a certain type I should avoid? I've seen a 10" Draper one, will this be long enough? Many thanks, David

Jul 6th, 2006, 19:21	#2
tuning_redblock Grrrrrrrrrrreat Member Last Online: Aug 31st, 2009 21:30 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: alfreton View Photos By: tuning_redblock	hello david, funny you should be doing this, I'm doing it at this very minute. Best way of doing it is with the draper ones, I believe mine are the 10inch ones, but most importantly they are the ones you don't need a socket for, you can put an extension bar straight into the end of the threaded bar and just connect to a normal socket wrench. Oh and investing in a 24mm offset ring spanner for the top nut, or some air tools would be advisable as well regards andi __________________ 1994 480 ES - 2.0 Auto (Blondie77's Car) Poppy 1980 24? GL - Pick Up, Complete shed 1984 244 GLT - NORDICA Replica (ish) aka Minstrel 1989 245 GL(T) - Modified Tulip (Died 01.01.2007) 1996 460 Turbo - Scrap metal (11.01.2007) 1986 245 GL - Dead 1982 240 GLT - Rust bucket, all parts saved 1989 745 GL - Sold and still going 1989 440 Xi - Sold and still going 1988 240 GLT - Dead 1989 360 GLT - Stolen 1988 360 GLT - Twisted shell!! Erm....I've lost my keys again darling.

Jul 6th, 2006, 22:00	#3
Mike_Brace Former contributor Last Online: Jul 2nd, 2022 07:54 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Rhosgoch, Anglesey	When changing springs I would recommend loosening the 24mm nuts till the nyloc part is of the thread (but obviously not fully) while the weight of the car is still on them. I prefer to remove strut to ensure spring compressors are safely fitted and compressing equally. You have to be careful of brake pipe fittings - give them a good soaking first. It is possible to change springs just by dropping the top but I find it difficult and don't like taking chances over compressing springs - they can kill! Also don't forget to mark position at top and ideally have 4 wheel alignment done afterwards not just tracking. Best of luck. Mike __________________ A Volvo is for life not just for Christmas!

Jul 7th, 2006, 22:29	#8
Mike_Brace Former contributor Last Online: Jul 2nd, 2022 07:54 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Rhosgoch, Anglesey	Yes rear not adjustable but front is set off the rears. Mike __________________ A Volvo is for life not just for Christmas!

Jul 6th, 2006, 22:20	#4
J..M Guest Location:	I did a job a few months ago, compressing springs with £4.99 ebay compressors. Trust me this isn't a area ya want to be in if you suffer from stress & general fear of compressed springs. The job I had (Allways the pro me ) you took the strut off completely then took it to a bench for fettling..... I used a Black & decker workmate & whilst I did complete the task, I did have a compressor ping off on me & it sent a 14mm nut thro the air at about 1000Mph ...... Lucky it didn't hit me ......... I freakin' heared it whizz past my ear tho ........ It lodged itself in next doors wooden fence......... Umm so ........ I suggest ya pays more than £4.99 for yas compressors AND don't give me the job to do

Jul 7th, 2006, 01:31	#5
peteS40 Guest Location:	Changed front shocks on my S40 recently and it was a mare to get the top nut undone (did not have the proper volvo tool to hold the strut), with no air gun what I did is to with car on the ground first used lots of wd40 on the nut, then used offset ring spanner on the nut and something on the other end to act as an extension then gripped the strut with mole grips very tight and wedged it against some wood so it couldn't move and gave the spanners on a nut a big sharp smack with a mallet to shock it off. This may help you although different car. Spring compressors on mine, were fine, can't remember how much they cost but for sure was a fair bit more than £5!! They've got the thing so you can put a 1/2" rachet in the end like someone above said. Pete

Jul 8th, 2006, 08:23	#9
Les, slight limp Senior Member Last Online: Oct 21st, 2007 09:24 Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: walsall	I've got a 12 volt wheel nut remover from woolworths, 14.99, i find it's just the job for head bolts, suspension bolts etc, i find proper impact guns are too brutal and will snap a rusted up bolt, the cheapo one only gives half the whack but i find 5 or 6 hits and the nut/bolt comes undone, i haven't snapped anything yet with it, and as long as you use impact sockets (the black 6 point ones) it works great.

Jul 8th, 2006, 15:32	#10
wagoneer Guest Location:	I used a laser 3 piece set bought from an Ebay dealer which was very reassuring. They have locking arms to lock each compressor onto the spring to stop the comp from moving. Price was about £20 plus postage. Having used cheaper ones in the past and lost a spring (next doors MK2 cavalier stopped it....) I was more confident in my new ones.

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