Unique on a british 200??

[octo0072000]

this is an old mod used to be used on RWD fords in the 60/70 the second bar had no ends and was bolted on to the oem bar with four brackets

[tuning_redblock]

hello all, I had this idea from the turbobricks website,

this is the link.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...dual+sway+bars

the problem I found is that with the front's it easier to put a nut between the 2 U shaped brakets, to secure the U bracket to the body, just for extra security. also when assembling the end links put in the metal base plates on the rubbers, and the 2 spacer nuts I used were the nuts from the ball joint on a spares car I had.

It took about 4 hours to do the rear, and about 2.5 to do the front, it truely is worth the effort as I can now take corners faster and tighter without fear of too much breakaway, of just use it for ease to get the back out

[Mike_Brace]

Interesting mod Andi - I'll have to give it try soon. I must sat that lowering front and stiffer progressive on the rear of mine did transform handling as you describe - I know people have commented about how stable it looks as they been left behind whilst I go through the twisties fully loaded! My only concern with your set up is how it will be towing. Be interested on seeing how your car rides with the horse box on the back. Would like to see a pic of how the car sits now.

Mike

[Alec Dawe]

My only thought on this, at the front at least, is won't this put a very high laod on the anti-roll bar to suspension drop links.
Looking at the front links on mine, they are not exactly a beefy cross section, especially as they appear to be in compression when working hard. Any way of strengthening these up, short of having different ones made up at your local engineering company out of something strong, like BSEN Damn Hard!

[tuning_redblock]

Hello Alec and Mike, I have spoken to a chap in the U.S who by the loks of some of his photo's drives his very hard, and is yet to snap or bend one, it may be that adding the extra strain to the bottom of the link improves it's strength, I know that sounds silly, but think of a long cane, secured in the ground by one end.

Now push it from the top and it bends easily and snaps, push it further down and there is more resisitance, so maybe some voodoo happens and it all works ok , hahahahaha, no seriously, when I break one I will have them remade in stronger stuff. And on the point of towing Mike, I will be calling you as soon as funds allow to order some progressive rear springs! The rear is fine with the cut rear springs for everyday use and with 6 bales of hay, but I wouldn't risk my horse with it!!!

Come on, who's going to give it a try?

[Alec Dawe]

Originally Posted by tuning_redblock

Hello Alec and Mike, I have spoken to a chap in the U.S who by the loks of some of his photo's drives his very hard, and is yet to snap or bend one, it may be that adding the extra strain to the bottom of the link improves it's strength, I know that sounds silly, but think of a long cane, secured in the ground by one end.

Now push it from the top and it bends easily and snaps, push it further down and there is more resisitance, so maybe some voodoo happens and it all works ok , hahahahaha, no seriously, when I break one I will have them remade in stronger stuff.

I hadn't realised exactly how the two roll bars fitted at the front. I was expecting to see the 'second' bar fitted ABOVE the original, not lower down the drop link, I hadn't thought there was enough room to fit one lower down. Drop link is helped in bending mode by the support lower down. Alles is klar!

What material did you use for the oversize saddles for the roll bar bushes in the front? Its not a plain section steel strip, looks like something specialist.

I have no problem getting brackets made for the rear ones, access to a railway workshop! (Just realised that there is a dirty great press there as well, for trailing link bushes!).

I can't work out why fitting two anti roll bars made your car sit higher, unless I've missed something fundamental. Especially at the rear. Surely the anti roll bar shouldn't be under any sort of load when the car is level, so shouldn't affect the ride height. What am I missing here?

Looking for scrap yards to rob anti roll bars off things now!! Presunable only 240 ones will fit? 740/760 etc will be different? 240's are getting a bit rare in the scrappies, and suspension bits are usually the worst to remove, especially after the wheels have gone! Grin ('ere mate, just perch this 240 on those two fiestas while I get the anti-roll bars orft, will yer?)

[tuning_redblock]

Hello Alec, with the front roll bar links, you remove them from the car. So now you have a bar with a bushing at the bottom and a straight bar with a 'saddle' for putting the bushes and roll bar ontop of, what you need to do is grind the bar straight, then use 2 nuts just bigger than the threads as spacers, you can now put the extra bar below. As for the extra bars to hold the roll bar on, it is just an extra bracket identical to the extisting one, to make it fit you need 4 M10x70mm bolts (a few pence from a hardware shop)

My car felt odd Alec as it was sitting on normal GL springs, which was quite high, I then used GLT springs (lower and stiffer) with 2 coils removed (a big mistake, I'm replaceing them with a different set of GLT rear springs with 1 coil removed) And it now goes around ALL corners as if on rails!!!

[davebslater(uk)]

did this about 12 years ago on my banger raced volvo estate , worked a treat - my hillclimbing 700 has a home made rear anti roll bar of 25mm diameter - about £15 worth of steel