b16 engine overhaul

[arcturus]

Moving on from my previous thread, I had compression anomalies in 3&4 cylinders so decided to strip engine and check everything out.
Engine out now,head off and bellhousing and flywheel removed. That allows me to fasten engine block to stand.I had a bit of a problem as the threaded holes in block for bellhouse fixing were not the same as in B20 but solved that problem with some threaded rod from builders merchant which fit and will be cut to size

[arcturus]

More progress,got it on the stand now. I had to make up some fixing bolts from threaded rod.The head is off and at first inspection there doesn't seem to be exhaust valve recession,time will tell. Now to start on the engine proper.

[blueosprey90]

Following with great interest.

What were your compression anomalies?

[arcturus]

Originally Posted by blueosprey90

Following with great interest.

What were your compression anomalies?

No 1&2 cylinders good compression 3&4 low. Oil test indicated possible rin problem.
See my thread Oct 30

[Derek UK]

What did the head gasket look like? Doesn't look as if it was blowing as far as water was concerned but the actual surface and the ring around the bores looks like it wasn't sealing as good as it could be. All rather oily/carbony. Head bolts might have been torqued rather low. May not have affected the compression. As I commented about my old B16, my money is on broken rings. Any scratches on the bores that you can see?

[blueosprey90]

Compared to what I am used to (which is not Volvo), looks like quite large valves. And what is the cc's on those combustion chambers?

[arcturus]

Gasket both sides,top & bottom seem ok. First inspection of bores encouraging.Will remove pistons later after cleaning off crowns. Interesting looking at head,3 & 4,the suspect cylinders.

[arcturus]

Piston crowns cleaned up.Left a slight rim around edges which should possibly help to seal. Pistons are +20. It's had a re bore at some time. I may polish them a bit more later.

[Army]

Please don't take this the wrong way but perhaps you should consider some more substantial foot ware when working on cars. The amount of times I've bounced things off metal toe caps and thought "well that was lucky" are more numerous than I care to remember (!)


Whilst it can be enjoyable to polish and clean - and it is important (probably about 90% of my time is spent cleaning stuff getting ready for the next stage) - but after a few revolutions of running an engine will look pretty similar to that shown in your pictures.


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I have tried on numerous occasions to make some decent pictures of cylinder bores to demonstrate the following but it has proved to be very difficult =>

Whilst many people will say to look at the top of the cylinder and measure the lip where the piston rings stop traveling there's often uneven wear on the walls of the cylinder that are more likely to cause problems.

This uneven wear looks like shadows on the side of the cylinders. Noticeable wear is more likely to be orthogonal to the direction of the crank.

If in doubt get a machinist to look at the bores - a trained eye won't need to measure a worn bore - failing that bore micrometer and measurements to make sure the bore is still round (not oval).

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If you suspect piston rings then you need to remove the pistons

BUT - be aware this can be a route to an expensive experience.

[blueosprey90]

Well, if nothing else, you seem to have plenty of rust in the water jacket.

In the '59 MGA race car, we are not allowed to run anti-freeze. I've started to use a rust inhibitor intended for high end boilers and it has made a very significant difference.