Steering column UJs

[Ian21401]

Why not remove the shrouds to check whether the noise continues with them removed. Whilst they are off check for lateral movement of the column within the top bearing. That could point to or eliminate two causes.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Skyedriver

Thanks everyone, don't think it's ball joints or track rod ends, I know noise travels but the car went through an MoT a month ago and I kjnd of know the noises those components make when worn.
The shroud has been off about two year ago but not been moved since.
Upper column bush could be a possibility.
I'm trying to work out if it happens at the same point on the steering every time, think it happens when the steering wheel turns more than 90 degrees clockwise which would point to the UJs

If it is the UJs, it would also happen when turning 90 degrees anticlockwose too. The upper column bush is checked during the MoT (or should be) so probably not that either.
Might be worth turning the steering wheel slowly while observing the column cowl/nacelle to firstly see if there's any movement and secondly any scuff marks from unintentional steering wheel contact.

[Skyedriver]

Well there's a turnip for the boots as Baldrick might say....
top shroud off, still a noise and you could tell it was the shaft not the lower shroud.
Blasted both UJs again with GT85 then tried to force some down the column towards the top bush. (Is this just a nylon bush or a needle roller bearing).
Noise reduced and now after a day or two use has gone away I think/hope.
So thanks for all help and guidance on that.

However it never rains but it pours, pulled up today at the nearby stables for some horse muck, pulled the handbrake cable and BANG. Looks like the cable from the centre of the rear axle to the wheel has snapped. Is this a separate part or am I stuck with replacing the whole shebang?

Cheers

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Skyedriver

However it never rains but it pours, pulled up today at the nearby stables for some horse muck, pulled the handbrake cable and BANG. Looks like the cable from the centre of the rear axle to the wheel has snapped. Is this a separate part or am I stuck with replacing the whole shebang?

Cheers

Which cable do you mean Tony?



If it's #18 in the diagram, complete cable from handbrake lever to N/S drum, if it's #20, it's a short slave cable from the equaliser to the O/S drum. It seems the same front cable (#18) was used regardless of model and year but later cars (dependent on a VIN change) had a different short (#20) cable.

[Ian21401]

Tony, if it is the short cable from the equaliser/compensator device mounted on the axle casing it’s a fairly straightforward job but it does need the right hand disc/drum removed for removal and fitting. Make sure that you reassemble the mechanism on the brake back plate the correct way up with the arrow pointing up over. (#42 in the above blow up.) Also check the condition of the A device which secures the compensator to the axle casing. ( #32 in the above blow up)(mine broke a while ago and needed to be replaced, despite having been well coated with grease.) They are NLA but there is an aftermarket kit available, which includes a clamp around the axle casing if the original bracket welded to the axle casing has failed. Also check the condition of the two guide grommets on the axle casing. (possibly #23). If they need replacing it needs to be done before the cable is connected to the brake back plate.

[Skyedriver]

Waiting to get the car inside so I can get it up on the ramps, only managed on a trolley jack earlier this week but I think it's #20 the short length.
i have a feeling I may have done this one before on a previous 940 or it might have just been a rusty fraying one I sleeved to protect it from rubbing on something. I know this one has been sleeved with plastic pipe.
To add, the creak returned yesterday....more GT85 once it stops raining!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Skyedriver

Waiting to get the car inside so I can get it up on the ramps, only managed on a trolley jack earlier this week but I think it's #20 the short length.
i have a feeling I may have done this one before on a previous 940 or it might have just been a rusty fraying one I sleeved to protect it from rubbing on something. I know this one has been sleeved with plastic pipe.
To add, the creak returned yesterday....more GT85 once it stops raining!

If it is the short one you'll have to check your VIN number Tony to make sure you get the correct one.

If you can get hold of some, PTFE lubricant spray will work better than GT85 on the column upper bearing, Toolstation used to sell it, not sure if they still do.

[Ian21401]

Good advice from Dave. I wasn’t aware that there were two options for the handbrake cable. The one I fitted on my 1992 940 was VO1387788 and the guide grommets (bushings) were VO1329524.
PS. Various PTFE sprays are still listed by Toolstation.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

Good advice from Dave. I wasn’t aware that there were two options for the handbrake cable. The one I fitted on my 1992 940 was VO1387788 and the guide grommets (bushings) were VO1329524.
PS. Various PTFE sprays are still listed by Toolstation.

You're right Ian, i was looking while you were editing!

https://www.toolstation.com/ptfe-spray/p63929

That's their own brand, having used their brand silicone spray, carb cleaner, contact cleaner and a few others i can definitely say it's good stuff and economical because of the price and can size.

[Skyedriver]

I have a can of PTFE spray somewhere... was thinking GT85 might penetrate more.
Handbrake cable, it's the short one, not sure if they are readily ID'd from looking at them, will give VIN No to Parts For Volvo and see where we go.
Car is a '97 940 LPT Estate
Seem to recall the 960 was different.

The swivel thing is OK rusty and the holes a little worn but OK. Never sure if these things should be greased or not as the grease collects grit and that increases the wear. Saw a repair item on the internet, clever idea.