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Handbrake shoes delaminated?

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Old Jan 14th, 2021, 16:59   #1
LucasSilver
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Default Handbrake shoes delaminated?

Hi folks,

I had an issue with my handbrake. Parked up on a small hill and pulled the brake up one click less that I should and car started rolling down slowly. Pulled one notch up and it held it in place. Then I decided to tighten the line a bit and drove on a steeper hill to test it and it held nicely. So I thought I'll drive back to my parking spot but while backing up I heard grinding noise from right rear and a slight squeal noise when driving slowly forward. I left it for a day and the day after I tried driving a few meters with the same noise going forward but backing up I got a rattling/grinding sound. Tried driving forward and pulling up the brake a bit and I got that squealing sound like metal on metal.

I'm thinking the shoes got delaminated and are tumbling around in the drum and squealing sound is from the shoe metal itself grinding on the drum. Am I correct? I booked a mechanic on clickmechanic.com but one guy who accepted the job said I need to come to the garage because a ramp is required to do this. Can't they just use wheel chocks?

Another question is can I drive it to a garage without risking any damage?

Thank you.
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Old Jan 14th, 2021, 17:36   #2
XC70Bob
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First off yes you risk doing serious damage if the loose brake material were to become jammed and you were travelling at any speed , you could break the brake shoe stop off the hub.

You don't specifically need a ramp to work on the rear brakes, I service mine on my driveway with nothing more than a trolley jack and axel stands.

I would recommend removing the brake disk and clearing out all the loose brake material before driving the car , if you can't do that were its parked then you either risk driving the car to the garage or you have it recovered with the rear wheels off the road.

This shows the sort of damage you can do http://casestudies.atlanticmotorcar....ation-failure/

Last edited by XC70Bob; Jan 14th, 2021 at 17:45.
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Old Jan 14th, 2021, 17:50   #3
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I'm not saying the problems are the shoes, but it sounds very likely. If so, you shouldn't drive any further, because parts could get stuck inside and that would lead to a costly repair. Take a look in this post, I linked a thread from a german forum with some pictures...but keep in mind, that's the worst vase scenario!
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...55&postcount=9

Repair or check is relatively easy, you don't need a ramp or such a thing. You only need to lift the tyre up, remove it, remove the caliper and at last remove the brake disc. That's it. If repair is necessary, you better have some tools to make it easier, but they are not necessary, only comfortable.

EDIT: too late to the party
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Old Jan 14th, 2021, 18:05   #4
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The issue is likely the shoes have delaminted but you can only check by taking off both rear brake discs.

As others have said you don't need the car on ramps, just a jack and axle stands, which is how I replaced my brake shoes.
I would look into a mobile mechanic if you arn't confident doing the work yourself.

If you can change the shoes yourself buy a tool like this and replacement springs: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133626764967
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Old Jan 14th, 2021, 21:55   #5
LucasSilver
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Thank you for all the responses guys, you're awesome. A couple questions here.

I feel confident changing the shoes and have the tools to do it apart for that special spring tool.

Obviously I can't use the handbrake to lock the car in place.
Car is currently on fairly flat spot and slightly down towards the front. Should I buy proper wheel chocks or would a couple wood blocks at the front wheels and putting it in gear be enough for jacking? Another question is, do I need to buy a torque wrench for this job? What shoes would you recommend? I found genuine volvo ones for both sides with springs for around 40 pounds, does that sound legit? Will removing the shoes and everything that broke off be good for driving it around for the time being? I'm OK with hill starts off the brake itself.

By the way, I called a volvo specialist called Voltech in Glasgow and they quoted me with 190 pounds for the job claiming they only use good parts and I was told the dealer would cost more and use lesser quality parts. Does that sound legit to you?

Thank you so much guys.

Last edited by LucasSilver; Jan 14th, 2021 at 21:58.
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Old Jan 14th, 2021, 22:14   #6
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I would use bricks instead of wood as wheel chocks as they are less likely to move, having said that I splashed out on some proper wheel chocks.

You don't have to buy a torque wrench but if you are going to be working on your own car it's a very worthwhile investment, I use this and am very pleased with it:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000RA13...740111_TE_item
"Sealey AK624 Calibrated Micrometer Torque Wrench, 1/2" Square Drive, 465mm "
If you do buy a different one I would strongly recommend getting one that comes with a calibration certificate.

£40 for Volvo shoes with springs does sound like a good price assuming they aren't fake. I used ATE when replacing my shoes, cost about £18 from autodoc plus delivery.

>>Will removing the shoes and everything that broke off be good for driving it around for the time being?
It won't be legal to drive like that but from a technical driving point of view should be fine I think.

>>By the way, I called a volvo specialist called Voltech in Glasgow and they quoted me with 190 pounds for the job claiming they only use good parts and I was told the dealer would cost more and use lesser quality parts. Does that sound legit to you?
Seems a bit expensive but then it does take a while to do.
I call bull**** on their parts being better than Volvo ones though.
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Old Jan 15th, 2021, 00:05   #7
Georgeandkira
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You'll feel better with Volvo parts in this application basically due to the way the Volvo shoes grab.

My 2002's parking brakes delaminated 3/4 the lining from every shoe. The chunks would pop and boing when I'd begin going rearward.

I swear 1,000 pounds of dust was in each hat.

IRONY: The State of New Jersey established random, pop-up "convenience inspection" sites. Any car within 2 months of inspection expiration would be offered an inspection right there and then. Actually, they were passive police dragnets designed to find motorists with outstanding warrants.

The inspection was cursory at best. During mine, the free chunks bound up exactly the right way to make the handbrake lever feel good. The car passed. This is our MOT.

I told the inspector I'd return with my dear mother's car even though there were more than 60 days left on her inspection. He was cool with it.

edit: What's the orange "thumbs down" icon?

Last edited by Georgeandkira; Jan 15th, 2021 at 00:17.
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Old Jan 15th, 2021, 00:05   #8
Bashy
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Stick it in 1st gear or park also make sure to buy the spring fitting kit.

Having just done the rear pads and shoes myself, ie last week, its not as straight forward as it looks, even with the special tool it can be difficult to remove the top and bottom shoe retaining springs as a slight twist then they wont undo, for me, refitting was different to the book, i slid the springs to the side with the larger catch area, the correct way lead to the spring being too lose.

The other major issue (for me) was pulling the last spring into its home, my long-nosed pliers kept slipping off the spring, i ended up re-using the original spring on the 1st side as it was a little weaker, i managed it with the new spring on the other side, took me 5hrs but that included having to remove the wheel again 1 side cause i forgot the pad retaining spring.

Heres my thread asking for help during my pitiful efforts, theres a link to a hooking took, that will make all the difference when refitting the last side spring
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Old Jan 15th, 2021, 00:20   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasSilver View Post
[...]
Obviously I can't use the handbrake to lock the car in place.
Car is currently on fairly flat spot and slightly down towards the front. Should I buy proper wheel chocks or would a couple wood blocks at the front wheels and putting it in gear be enough for jacking? Another question is, do I need to buy a torque wrench for this job? What shoes would you recommend? I found genuine volvo ones for both sides with springs for around 40 pounds, does that sound legit? Will removing the shoes and everything that broke off be good for driving it around for the time being? I'm OK with hill starts off the brake itself.
Put it in "P" and use something to block. GBP 40.- sounds good, Skandix is calling EUR 52.- incl VAT for genuine Volvo, but only EUR 30.- for their own brand. I don't use the genuine ones any more, as I change them every two years as a prevention. It is, after the first two tries, an easy job. With the special tools it takes a maximum of 20 minutes per side and doesn't cost much. That's for my piece of mind. It's always the first thing I do after buying a P2.

As I said in the linked thread, it's no problem to drive without a handbrake in our cars, as long as you don't forget to _not_ use it.

As far as I remember, with this job there is nothing to do with a torque wrench beside the wheel nuts... If you get one, take one a little better, as the cheaper ones tend to not be very reliable. You can easily see the difference with the torque screws. The one `BlueRubber` linked compared to this one:
https://www.contorion.de/handwerkzeu...schl%C3%BCssel

The mechanism is different and the ones with the screw as the most bottom part are the cheaper mechanism. And don't forget to release the torque from the wrench after every use. Ruined not only one by forgetting that...

Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasSilver View Post
By the way, I called a volvo specialist called Voltech in Glasgow and they quoted me with 190 pounds for the job claiming they only use good parts and I was told the dealer would cost more and use lesser quality parts. Does that sound legit to you?

Thank you so much guys.
GBP 190.- seems a little much for just labour and parts... In my area (Munich, _not_ cheap) labour is EUR 100.- per hour. Genuine parts are EUR 50.-

Decide yourself
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Old Jan 15th, 2021, 15:50   #10
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Here's a link to a how to video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phO0arqqxRM&t=620s

It is simple when you have done it once... you learn so much, its the 1st time that can be painful. My best advice is the shoe retaining springs push down 1st then slide left or right to remove. You start twisting them you'll be on ages as they can't come out that way. The little "bar" you grip must be parallel to the floor, because the letterbox slot the spring comes out of is parallel to the floor too.
Cheers
Bob
PS slacken the 10mm locknut on the end of the cable at the handbrake lever end under the leather cover, it will allow the cable to slacken and the shoes to retract their max. making drum removal easier.
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