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Oil change 2.0d 2009

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Old Feb 19th, 2013, 13:20   #21
askim98
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Hiya bud when i checked that helix it wasn't a5/b5 ? and it isn't for cars with particulate filters or have i got it wrong....

it is not a A5/B5 and yes it is alright to put it on car with DPF.

i would choose a 0w/30 A5/B5 i dont use anything else.

all the volvo V50 2.0 D should run on 0W/30 i think volvo made a concious decision to use a more regurarly availballe oil ( the 5w/30 )as it was impossible until the end of last year to use a 0w/30 other than make the car servised by volvo.

many volvo uses a 0w/30 as a first choise in oil change.

on this i think volvo was very customer friendly.
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Old Feb 19th, 2013, 16:07   #22
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I don't think any key should get overly concerned about the 0w30 or 5w30 debate.

0w30 is a more expensive oil to purchase from the research I did last year.

The 2.4,2.4i,T5 and D5 section of my handbooks ats to use 0w30 A5/B5. But also says to use 0w30 A3,B3,B4 on the 2.4,2.4i,T5 if not under severe service where it says you the previous A5/B5!

But my 2008 says use the Ford spec 5w30, the minimum oil for that spec is a semi synth you can get from a Ford dealer Formula F from memory as I used it on my Mondeo.

There is also a new oil spec to the one in my handbook which is backwards compatible.

But if you operate under severe service it says A5/B5 0w30 with no interval reduction.

The manuals are not that clear to be honest.

But any quality full synth 5w30 A5/B5 is fine in the 2.0d as is any quality 0w30 A5/B5 full synth.

I just don't see the value in running an oil that costs so much more otherwise I would have 0w30 in there.

The only advantage is in cold starts, and the advantage is not huge but is there.

A 0w30 wi be a better oil.

But this engine is run on 5w30 by most manufacturers that use it.
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Old Feb 19th, 2013, 16:16   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v50inred View Post
I don't think any key should get overly concerned about the 0w30 or 5w30 debate.

0w30 is a more expensive oil to purchase from the research I did last year.

The 2.4,2.4i,T5 and D5 section of my handbooks ats to use 0w30 A5/B5. But also says to use 0w30 A3,B3,B4 on the 2.4,2.4i,T5 if not under severe service where it says you the previous A5/B5!

But my 2008 says use the Ford spec 5w30, the minimum oil for that spec is a semi synth you can get from a Ford dealer Formula F from memory as I used it on my Mondeo.

There is also a new oil spec to the one in my handbook which is backwards compatible.

But if you operate under severe service it says A5/B5 0w30 with no interval reduction.

The manuals are not that clear to be honest.

But any quality full synth 5w30 A5/B5 is fine in the 2.0d as is any quality 0w30 A5/B5 full synth.

I just don't see the value in running an oil that costs so much more otherwise I would have 0w30 in there.

The only advantage is in cold starts, and the advantage is not huge but is there.

A 0w30 wi be a better oil.

But this engine is run on 5w30 by most manufacturers that use it.
There is £10 in it I personally think it is worth it.

Having just looked at the MY08 manuals I see nothing about the specifications you have mentioned.

The manuals are very clear - and from '08 onward are the same.
When the oil decal shown alongside here is in
the car’s engine compartment, the following
applies. See location on page 234.
Oil grade: WSS-M2C913-B
Viscosity: SAE 5W–30
When driving under adverse conditions, use
ACEA A5/B5 SAE 0W-30.
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Old Feb 19th, 2013, 17:07   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v50inred View Post
I don't think any key should get overly concerned about the 0w30 or 5w30 debate.

0w30 is a more expensive oil to purchase from the research I did last year.

The 2.4,2.4i,T5 and D5 section of my handbooks ats to use 0w30 A5/B5. But also says to use 0w30 A3,B3,B4 on the 2.4,2.4i,T5 if not under severe service where it says you the previous A5/B5!

But my 2008 says use the Ford spec 5w30, the minimum oil for that spec is a semi synth you can get from a Ford dealer Formula F from memory as I used it on my Mondeo.

There is also a new oil spec to the one in my handbook which is backwards compatible.

But if you operate under severe service it says A5/B5 0w30 with no interval reduction.

The manuals are not that clear to be honest.

But any quality full synth 5w30 A5/B5 is fine in the 2.0d as is any quality 0w30 A5/B5 full synth.

I just don't see the value in running an oil that costs so much more otherwise I would have 0w30 in there.

The only advantage is in cold starts, and the advantage is not huge but is there.

A 0w30 wi be a better oil.

But this engine is run on 5w30 by most manufacturers that use it.
0w30 it is a cleaner oil it is more fluid reduce consumption and at the same time it is better when cold.

u can tell you my wife had until couple of years ago a VW polo 1998 used from new mobil 1 0w40(i actually made them change the oil before delivery ) you should run the polo on a 10W40 or to exagerate on a 5w/40 ( difference in price £ 10 to the mobil 1)even VW told me that it was a waste. i scrapped the car after 13 years with 160000 "very Spirited" miles on the clock and i never had any problem with it, i can tell you ask any owner of 1998 if they feel their car will do that mileage ( i scrapped the car as somebody crashed on it while parked) and their answer will be a Big Fat NO engine like that start to fall apart under the 100000. another think never had a oil leak either.
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Old Feb 19th, 2013, 18:04   #25
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So this talk of adverse conditions.
At what point do you change between 5w-30 to 0w-30 ? Is this short cold starts and stops ? Hard acceleration / motorway work ?
Surely the 5w-30's more than adequate ?

Your thoughts.
Andy
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Old Feb 19th, 2013, 18:14   #26
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Just generally makes it quieter, smoother, easier to crank in the cold whenever your service is...

The few extra pounds definitely has made the car easier to start, and just more settled.
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Old Jul 5th, 2018, 19:18   #27
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Default Been using 10w40 Super Mobil 2000 X1 semi-synthetic

Thought I'd resurrect this very old thread!

I've had a 2005 2.0D S40 (with 234k miles on it) for about a month now and am about to do an oil change. It has a partially used bottle of 10w40 in the boot, which, looking back over the service history (owner filled in himself for the last 3 years) has been using 10w40. Currently the engine doesn't appear to use any oil (the previous owner said it never had to be topped up) - it does take a few seconds to start if it's been sat for a day undriven, though this may be unrelated.

My question is, do you think on such a high mileage car there is benefit to using this higher viscosity oil - should I stick to it or use the manufacturer's recommended of 5w30? Or should I plump for 5w40 or even 0w40 to get the full range?

I regret not picking up on it and asking on purchase - presumably there was a reason for using the thicker grade... Seems like a lower 'winter' viscosity is helpful for engine wear on startup but that the higher end could be useful for an aged motor.

Any advice appreciated!
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Old Jul 5th, 2018, 20:11   #28
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Yes use 5w40 or 0w40, A3/B4 spec in a high mileage engine.
Check here for bits of info you might find useful or to ask any complex questions, Im trying to make a unified thread with loads of info all in one place... 👍 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=283503
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Old Jul 5th, 2018, 21:26   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petesey View Post
Thought I'd resurrect this very old thread!

I've had a 2005 2.0D S40 (with 234k miles on it) for about a month now and am about to do an oil change. It has a partially used bottle of 10w40 in the boot, which, looking back over the service history (owner filled in himself for the last 3 years) has been using 10w40. Currently the engine doesn't appear to use any oil (the previous owner said it never had to be topped up) - it does take a few seconds to start if it's been sat for a day undriven, though this may be unrelated.

My question is, do you think on such a high mileage car there is benefit to using this higher viscosity oil - should I stick to it or use the manufacturer's recommended of 5w30? Or should I plump for 5w40 or even 0w40 to get the full range?

I regret not picking up on it and asking on purchase - presumably there was a reason for using the thicker grade... Seems like a lower 'winter' viscosity is helpful for engine wear on startup but that the higher end could be useful for an aged motor.

Any advice appreciated!
stick to what is recommended 5W/30 . mileage is not necessarily an indication of wear anywhere , you will probably find the crankshaft bearings and cylinder bores and pistons still within new specification . we are not oil experts … excessive bearing clearances soon lead to failure , piston or bore wear leads to smoke and high oil consumption . the purpose of a good oil is to reduce wear , most engines volvo use whether their own or Renault / ford / Mitsubishi simply do not wear ...
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Old Jul 5th, 2018, 22:01   #30
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This is a very fair point, however an engine with those miles IS going to have some wear, though it may still be quite healthy indeed.
It may be fine with 0or5w30, but its not going to hurt using 0or5w40. The key thing in play here is that as the engine does have wear, but the amount unknown (especially as its been run on 10w40 semi which may have increased wear at start-up (-may-) it isnt going to hurt giving it a stronger oil vs it may or may not be n a state to still be ok with original spec. The thing is down to the spec/hths value and saps. 0w40/5w40 are widely available to B4 spec which is full saps and a hths of greater than 3.5. For 0w30 there are only 2 on sale here in blighty these days to B4 and 5w30 only a version of magnatec. Most 5w30 are C3 or B5, similar witj 0w30. Hths represents the true working viscosity under load in an engine, a 30 or 40 can have the same 'working' viscosity, the static values on the lable meam almost squat. A B5 has hths of 2.9-3.5, a B4 is greater than 3.5 regardless of ststic viscosity number. C3 is low saps with hths grester than 3.5. In the older engine it is wise to use B4 which will offer full protection, as opposed to B5 or C3 which may not fulfill an adequate role if the engine is more worn than assumed.

Using the original spec -should- certainly still be fine indeed, just with the miles and history why not use something that -will- give the best performance available, that was my point.
I doubt there will be an issue running original spec.
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