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Hardline Rear Anti Roll Bar?Views : 3191 Replies : 32Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 11th, 2017, 12:06 | #1 |
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Hardline Rear Anti Roll Bar?
Hi Everyone
Been a bit absent of late as she's been behaving, but I have a clonk from the rear suspension and so I am now in the position to fiddle with stuff again. I know that an uprated rear ARB is recommended by people to improve cornering (mine does lean a bit at the rear as it is the D5), but last time I looked they were more expensive than I could justify (£200-250). Having googled more recently I have found this Hardrace one on offer at £105, which is very tempting: Clicky Does anyone have any experience of these? IIRC the IPD and Elevate ones that everyone talks about are 22-24mm so it seems comparable?
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Cars Current: 2008 Volvo V50 R-Design D5 History: (1) 1956 Ford 100e Prefect | (2) 1986 Ford Fiesta 1.1 Holiday | (3) 1997 Peugeot 106 1.5d XND | (4) 1997 Rover 420 GSDI | (5) 2003 Subaru Forester 2.0x AWP. Last edited by SouthWestWanderer; Aug 11th, 2017 at 14:59. |
Aug 11th, 2017, 12:11 | #2 |
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I have booked mark that to keep on the radar, looks definitely worth it
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----------------------------------------- Current: 2009 Volvo S40 T5 Progress Thread: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=271945 Previous Volvo: 2008 S40 SE Lux R Design 2.0D |
Aug 11th, 2017, 13:09 | #3 |
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Hahaha! Me too.
Need to check if mine is the same though as I've found some have vertical fittings and some have horizontal fittings.
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Thread V40 T2 R-Design - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...56#post2901756 Thread V50 D2 R-Design - https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=264890 - CRASHED |
Aug 11th, 2017, 13:35 | #4 | |
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Quote:
From my research*, however, it seems that the only difference is the drop links, and the mounting points for these are the same, so if you have the 'wrong' type, you could just swap the drop lings as well. Bit more cost, but still cheaper than £325. *Please do check this yourself though, as I am only going off what I have read on this and over forums.
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Cars Current: 2008 Volvo V50 R-Design D5 History: (1) 1956 Ford 100e Prefect | (2) 1986 Ford Fiesta 1.1 Holiday | (3) 1997 Peugeot 106 1.5d XND | (4) 1997 Rover 420 GSDI | (5) 2003 Subaru Forester 2.0x AWP. |
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Aug 11th, 2017, 18:52 | #6 |
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says not for ST! does that mean the ST would be a better option?
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Aug 11th, 2017, 23:30 | #7 |
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Well, I did wonder this. I know that for the diesels they used the ST ARB as standard to cope with the extra weight of the volvo bodyshell. so there was no 'extra' level to go to for the RDesign spec.
It might only be stiffer than ordinary spec, not RDesign spec?
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Cars Current: 2008 Volvo V50 R-Design D5 History: (1) 1956 Ford 100e Prefect | (2) 1986 Ford Fiesta 1.1 Holiday | (3) 1997 Peugeot 106 1.5d XND | (4) 1997 Rover 420 GSDI | (5) 2003 Subaru Forester 2.0x AWP. |
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Aug 12th, 2017, 00:05 | #8 |
Dave
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I have a Whiteline one but you have to use the original fixings and prize out the old bushes from them.
This Hardrace one looks a bargain and seems to have dropped in price since I last saw.
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Aug 13th, 2017, 02:02 | #9 |
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SWW - how thick is the rear ARB on your D5? I've got a C30 D2 and the rear bar is 19mm. I'd expect it to be bigger on a D5, but maybe not?
Looked at the Hardrace and I too thought it looked a bargain. However, I saw that it is HOLLOW, not solid steel like all the others - "Hollow internal structure". I'm no engineer, but I can't see how a hollow bar can provide as much torsional stiffness as a solid one of the same diameter. Engineers, please comment. All that follows assumes you have as standard a solid 19mm OE bar. If you go to 22mm solid it will provide an increase in stiffness of 80%. Not sure how much stiffer a hollow 22mm would be than a 19mm solid? How much increased stiffness are you getting? So it may not be the bargain it seems. Going 24mm is 155% stiffer. The Elevate is 25.4mm, bit of a beast, 200%ish stiffer. That size will wind out a lot of understeer (turn-in will be epic!). But you may, unless you are careful, get oversteer, particularily lift-off oversteer - so the back could let go on you. The Whitelines are reasonable, about £170. The 22mm BMR78Z: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...BMR78Z&sq=5363 The 24mm BMR78XZ: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...MR78XZ&sq=5364 If you have a look at these links and click the %Chart you will see where my numbers come from. I know it doesn't mention our Volvos, but should fit your car. They confirmed to me by email that they'd fit my C30.
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Aug 15th, 2017, 09:43 | #10 |
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Hi Niggly, from memory, its 19mm too, although i'm not 100% certain without getting under the car.
From what I can remember of the research I did when I first looked into this a while back, Volvo used the ST bar in all RDesign models, and on all (including basic) T/D5 models. This left them nothing stiffer to fit to a T/D5 RDesign which is why these are a bit lacking. I, like you, was wondering what the difference it being hollow would make to the stiffness. This company lists the Hardrace one as being 62% stiffer than stock, which would make sense as the Whiteline comparison chart states that 19-22mm change in solid bar would be 80% stiffer. The question is 60% stiffer than base model, or 60% thicker than RDesign spec? I'm no engineer either, but from a physics point of view: when you twist a solid bar, the outside has further to go than the core as it has a bigger circumference. If it is relatively thick walled tube, it would make sense that it is still nearly as stiff, as the central core isn't really doing as much as the sides when looking at torsional strength.
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Cars Current: 2008 Volvo V50 R-Design D5 History: (1) 1956 Ford 100e Prefect | (2) 1986 Ford Fiesta 1.1 Holiday | (3) 1997 Peugeot 106 1.5d XND | (4) 1997 Rover 420 GSDI | (5) 2003 Subaru Forester 2.0x AWP. |
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