Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > S40 / V40 '96-'04 General
Register Members CarsBlogs Help Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004.

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

Guide: Wireless Lock Alarm components removal

Views : 25511

Replies : 72

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Jun 27th, 2011, 17:56   #1
gatos
Premier Member
 
gatos's Avatar
 

Last Online: Yesterday 11:17
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London / Essex
Blog Entries: 2
Default Guide: Wireless Lock Alarm components removal

First of all make sure you have your radio code handy, as when you follow this procedure, you will have to remove the radio.

Here is what Vadis has about the alarm system



Removing the Lock Alarm Control
Remove the fascia of the Air-Condition/ Climate Control Unit. You can instert a flat metal surface on either side (yellow circles) and it unclips. I used the blade of my penknife to do so. Be gentle and careful as you don't want to break it. When you are done, push inwards the 2 clips of the radio/stereo (red circles) and then pull out the stereo gently. Disconnect all the cables behind making note of what goes where.


Undo the 2 screws holding the radio/stero unit fascia(I have already removed them in the photo below and that is why you can't see them ). I removed the Air-Condition/ Climate Control Unit. Too, but you don't have to do it to access the Lock Alarm Control unit.


Undo the 3 screws holding the radio/stero unit fascia (Yellow circles). Remove
Remove the rubber mat which is within the red oval highlighted area (I have already removed it in this photo) and unclip the 2 clips (green circles)


Unclip the leather gaitor on the Gear Lever and remove the plastic gear lever suround (make sure you disconnect the Lighter wire in case you have a lighter) .


Undo the 2 screws in the yellow circles. There are two more screws hidden from view inside the arm rest comprtment (red circle). Remove the rubber mat and carefully unclip the plastic cover (green circle)


Undo the two screws


Now move the whole arm rest backwards. 2-3 inches will be enough.


Now you can move the “front part of the armarest/console panel/gearbox plastic hosuing thingy” backwards a bit and if you want you can remove it. This is to gain some space highlighted within the yellow circle to access the Lock Alarm Control Unit.


The Lock Alarm Control Unit is underneath that metal frame and is being held by 3 clips. The 2 top ones on the photo and the 3rd which is hidden from view and is roughly where the lowest circle is. Carefully lift the clips and slide the Lock Alarm Control Unit away.


Job done!!! In this car the Lock Alarm Control Unit is black. However in an earlier 2001 car it was grey in colour.


Job Done



Removing the RC receiver
Accessing the RC receiver unit is a lot easier and in the process you will learn how to remove the Drivers Instrument panels. Kill two birds with one stone or if you are Chuck Norris kill two stones with one bird.....
First of all, lower the steering wheel to the lowest point it can go.
Undo the two screws (yellow circles) holding the instrument panel outer cover. Wiggle it out carefully.


There are 3 screws holding the instrument panel in place. Remove all 3.


Carefully pull the Instrument panel outwards and disconnect the two wire clips connected to it.


Carefully wiggle it out. It will go through the steering wheel gap, but be careful not to brrake the ododmeter reset thingy


Now you can see the RC receiver within the green circle. Undo the two screws (highlighted within the yellow circles) and remove the Unit.


Job done


Removing the Immobiliser Control Unit
Undo the 4 screws (Yellow circles) holding the drivers footwell cover. Carefully move it backwards and disconnect the 2 wires connecting to the footwell light. Remove the cover.


Now you can see the CEM (the grey coloured box) and the Immobiliser Control unit (blue color box) highlighted in the yellow oval circle. You need to remove the ECU to gain access to the Immobiliser control box. Remove the two screws (green circles) and unplug all 4 of the connectors to the CEM.


Now you can see the Immobiliser control box


It is secured by a metal frame which in turn is screwed on the car frame by 2 screws (yellow circles). Remove both of them and the Immobiliser is out.


Job done.

Conclusion
My understanding of the alarm receiver unit is as follows. The RC receiver receives the signal from the key and sends it to the Lock Alram Control Unit. When last year I sold a fob, the Lock Alram Control Unit and the RC receiver, the person fitting it on his car told me that he did not replace the RC receiver and that the whole system was working fine. So if someone wants to replace a fob and a matching Lock Alram Control Unit, they don't need the RC receiver unit, nor do they need the Immobiliser Unit.

With regards to the Immobiliser Unit, there is a microchip embedded in the key. The signal from it is picked up by a wire sensor inside the ignition and that talks to the Immobiliser Unit.
Exploded view of a Volvo S/V40 key with integrated fob





So lets say that someone who has got hold of a key with an integrated fob and the Lock Alram Control unit. They will also need the Immobiliser unit as well as the chip is in the key plastics. I tried to open the bloody key but it is stuck very well together and the only way to get it open is to more or less break parts of it, rendering it useless. Inside you will see the Immobiliser Chip on the top right corner(yellow circle).

The system was working fine and I was going to sell it to Volvoline (a Volvoforum member), but I didn't realise that by removing the battery for a prolonged time would reset the fob settings. When I put everything back together, I realised that my fob was not talking to the car anymore and therefore decided to open it up and check it's internal works. The hardest of everything I have done here was opening that bllody key. Nice work Volvo.

I hope everything I said or did here is correct. Please feel free to correct me if I am wrong
__________________
Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE project
Previous Volvos: 1999 S40 1.8, 2001 S40 T4

Click here for my S40/V40 Info and Guides
Nullius in Verba

Last edited by gatos; Jun 27th, 2011 at 20:17.
gatos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27th, 2011, 19:59   #2
960kg
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Jul 19th, 2019 14:07
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Mercville
Default

.......excellent write up......the only thing is the "ECU" is the "CEM"......the ECU or as Volvo call it ECM is behind the centre console....
__________________


Mercedes C320CDI Sport Estate 3 litre V6 7 Gear Auto
Remap 290bhp 628Nm torque @ 1600revs 45.1mpg
960kg is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to 960kg For This Useful Post:
Old Jun 27th, 2011, 20:09   #3
gatos
Premier Member
 
gatos's Avatar
 

Last Online: Yesterday 11:17
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London / Essex
Blog Entries: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 960kg View Post
.......excellent write up......the only thing is the "ECU" is the "CEM"......the ECU or as Volvo call it ECM is behind the centre console....
Ooops. Yes you are right. I will edit it in a while........... i knew that but somehow I misspelt it.

Edit done now. Thanks for pointing it out
__________________
Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE project
Previous Volvos: 1999 S40 1.8, 2001 S40 T4

Click here for my S40/V40 Info and Guides
Nullius in Verba

Last edited by gatos; Jun 27th, 2011 at 20:18.
gatos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27th, 2011, 20:30   #4
Volvoline
Master Member
 

Last Online: Dec 31st, 2016 23:43
Join Date: May 2011
Location: JER
Default

You are a godsend gatos. I now realize exactly whats going on with my car.
Pm !
Volvoline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27th, 2011, 20:53   #5
Dog_Book
Idiot
 
Dog_Book's Avatar
 

Last Online: Apr 21st, 2019 17:29
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Derby
Default

LOL Gatos's is pretty amazing...
__________________
Vectra VXR estate convert
Experience = V40 1998 2.0 CD lots of mods

Busy pestering the poor sods here now

Last edited by Dog_Book; Jun 27th, 2011 at 21:37.
Dog_Book is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27th, 2011, 21:29   #6
gatos
Premier Member
 
gatos's Avatar
 

Last Online: Yesterday 11:17
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London / Essex
Blog Entries: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dog_Book View Post
LOL Gatso's is pretty amazing...
No I am not. The are other members here who do a lot more than I do. Ask me something about the engine aprts etc and I am clueless. I just do internal easy things....

And by the way it is Gatos, not Gatsos.........

Gatos means Cat in Greek, hence my name.... lol
__________________
Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE project
Previous Volvos: 1999 S40 1.8, 2001 S40 T4

Click here for my S40/V40 Info and Guides
Nullius in Verba
gatos is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to gatos For This Useful Post:
Old Jun 27th, 2011, 21:38   #7
Dog_Book
Idiot
 
Dog_Book's Avatar
 

Last Online: Apr 21st, 2019 17:29
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Derby
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gatos View Post
No I am not. The are other members here who do a lot more than I do. Ask me something about the engine aprts etc and I am clueless. I just do internal easy things....

And by the way it is Gatos, not Gatsos.........

Gatos means Cat in Greek, hence my name.... lol
Sorted :P looks like i need another guide in spelling
__________________
Vectra VXR estate convert
Experience = V40 1998 2.0 CD lots of mods

Busy pestering the poor sods here now
Dog_Book is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 27th, 2011, 21:51   #8
gatos
Premier Member
 
gatos's Avatar
 

Last Online: Yesterday 11:17
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: London / Essex
Blog Entries: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dog_Book View Post
Sorted :P looks like i need another guide in spelling
lol. Too many guides for one day. I need to do a guide for the rear door windows and lock mechanism and then see how it goes. I am thinking of taking the engine apart to see how it works, as it seems no one is interested in a 2l engine.
__________________
Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE project
Previous Volvos: 1999 S40 1.8, 2001 S40 T4

Click here for my S40/V40 Info and Guides
Nullius in Verba
gatos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 28th, 2011, 09:26   #9
960kg
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Jul 19th, 2019 14:07
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Mercville
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gatos View Post

And by the way it is Gatos, not Gatsos.........

Gatos means Cat in Greek, hence my name.... lol

.....My name Keith in Celtic means "wood"........which i believe some on here think i am a bit "wooden"......
__________________


Mercedes C320CDI Sport Estate 3 litre V6 7 Gear Auto
Remap 290bhp 628Nm torque @ 1600revs 45.1mpg
960kg is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to 960kg For This Useful Post:
Old Jun 28th, 2011, 10:47   #10
Biotoxic
Master Member
 
Biotoxic's Avatar
 

Last Online: Dec 30th, 2018 09:33
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Craigavon area
Default

Nice work gatos.
About that key..
''
Quote:
but I didn't realise that by removing the battery for a prolonged time would reset the fob settings. When I put everything back together, I realised that my fob was not talking to the car anymore and therefore decided to open it up and check it's internal works. The hardest of everything I have done here was opening that bllody key.''
When I removed my engine, battery was dissconnected for more than a month. I had problems with lock alarm, as soon as I connected battery back.
It seemed that alarm doesn't work at first, so I locked doors with that key itself. The next morning everything worked fine. So I think it reprogramed itself somehow....
Biotoxic is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Biotoxic For This Useful Post:
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 18:26.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.