Quote:
Originally Posted by Volvo_133
To avoid any collision damage while trying your parts, take note the direction your rotor faces, remove distributor, you can now rotate your dizzy input shaft by hand with each of your 3 rotors in the 3 caps. From there refit dizzy with the rotor facing the same direction. If it starts ok, then the cap brush must be long enough and the rotor to cap gap be close enough.
The arcing and tracking in your original cap was more than likely caused by traces of carbon from a worn brush. Check and clean the inside of the cap periodically to avoid a repeat issue.
I ought to take my own advice, it is a couple of years since I looked in there!
I do carry a spare cap, rotor arm, points and a condenser. I should not mention all the other bits, fuel pump etc!
Chris.
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I would agree on the work brush except the cap had been on the car for around 1000 kilometres so shouldn’t be worn. In hospital at the moment but will have a twiddle round when I get home and up and about
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Apr 23rd, 2021, 06:25
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