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Severe shudder when brakingViews : 1001 Replies : 8Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 2nd, 2018, 21:56 | #1 |
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Last Online: Apr 19th, 2021 16:39
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Location: Airdrie
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Severe shudder when braking
My car was rear ended as far as i know there wasn’t much damaged, my car was parked and it was shunted approx 5 ft and was was also shunted into the kerb. It has all beeen fixed and car was returned to me last week. Today I went back to work and and was driving on the motorway and I had to brake and I honestly thought my tyres where about to come off my car the shudder was so severe. Hubby jacked has checked the tyres, calipers and everything looks normal. Before I go back to insurance company and approved garage does anyone have any idea what could be causing this. I want to be armed with info in case they find b me off. My car drove perfectly before the accident.
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Aug 2nd, 2018, 22:10 | #2 |
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Last Online: Apr 20th, 2024 18:56
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Selby, North Yorkshire
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First thought would be that something hasn't been done up properly. Presumably it's been OK for the while for which you've had it back - until now.
If it's OK when braking more gently at lower speeds, but you get the severe shaking at higher speeds under heavier braking that does sort of suggest that the problem is at the back end. Generally speaking, most "normal" braking uses only the front brakes - it's only from higher speeds and with heavier pressure on the pedal that you'll feel problems with the rear brakes. It depends upon what's been disturbed during the accident and then afterwards. The possibilities I guess include the rear brakes, callipers and discs, rear springs, shock absorbers and suspension mounting points. One easy thing to check is that all the wheel bolts are present and have been correctly tightened! But the best option in the first instance really is to contact the insurance company. It's their responsibility to deliver the repaired car back to you in a safe condition. If you are a member of the AA or RAC then it might be worth checking the Ts and Cs of your membership to see if the cover includes technical advice. On some policies this is covered. Jack |
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Aug 2nd, 2018, 22:50 | #3 |
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Thanks
Thanks for the response. Everything was tight when hubby checked it. One other thing I didn’t mention was you can feel the shudder through the brake pedal as well. At least now when I speak to insurance company I can say some of the info you provided. Forewarned is forearmed.
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Aug 3rd, 2018, 06:01 | #4 |
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Last Online: Apr 11th, 2024 09:21
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Location: Ffos y Ffin
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The car is not as it was before the accident , therefore the insurance company has not full filled it's contract with you, to restore you to the position you were in before the accident.
They will blame the repairer but unless you chose the repairer it's the insurers problem, your contract is with them not the repairer. Daughter had a problem when her car was rear ended, after the repair the tailgate was out of square with the frame. Complained to insurance company and they sent an assesor to look at it. Agreed it was not correct and said he would arrange for it to go back to repairers. Hang about says daughter, they tried and failed they are not having my car again it's going to my garage. Oh you have to give them a chance to put it rigot says assessor. They had a chance says daughter and please show me where in my policy it says idiot repairers should have multiple goes at getting it right. Car went to her repairers and was fixed at the cost of the original repairers including the second courosy car Take no nonsense, it's not right and you want it put right, it's the insurance company's job to sort it out. Paul. |
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Aug 3rd, 2018, 11:27 | #5 |
Pete
Last Online: Jul 4th, 2021 22:21
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You could go down the route of an independent report but that would cost and you want to try and resolve without any cost to yourself ideally.
You could speak to your local Volvo dealer and see if they could help in any way? I'm sure health checks are free (double check) but not entirely sure what they consist of, think its visual checks only like brakes l bushes, obvious broken parts etc. If your car is in that way I would also tell the insurance you feel the motor is not safe to drive and need a hire car till it is sorted.
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Aug 6th, 2018, 20:24 | #6 |
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Brakes update
The garage have completed their inspection of my car and reported back that I need new brake pads and drums. This is what is causing the severe shuddering when I brake at approx 70mph. There is no other shudder etc when I brake at lower speeds. My car has done 27000 miles, is this normal mileage to have your brakes replaced.
Also my car passed it’s MOT after the car was returned to me and before I noticed this shudder. Would the MOT not notable de this and least give an advisory. I am really quite confused now and I’m not sure what to do next. |
Aug 6th, 2018, 20:43 | #7 | |
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Quote:
Oval drums could cause it but I would be measuring before replacing. Try cleaning the disks as hot disk with brake held on can lead to a deposit on the disk which can give these symptoms. As for normal milage, afraid don't know as it all depends on driver, terrain, and wether manual or auto. As a rule of thumb I recon to change disks every 2 sets of pads. Ie when 3rd set needed I change disks. Drums I only ever change if damaged or worn beyond service and that is usually years rather than miles, but it's many years since I had a car with drum brakes, mine being disk all round. Paul. |
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Aug 6th, 2018, 21:19 | #8 |
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Last Online: Apr 24th, 2024 21:26
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Location: birmingham
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s/v 40s have disks at the back not drums, perhaps they mean new pads and disks ?
to get shudder And at the pedal from the rear , worn out pads "very possible" worn disks "very possible" , Warped disks "possible" , Badly blead brake system "Very possible" S/V40s have 4 wheel alignment, as yours had a rear shunt And hit the kerb has it been checked for alignment , and checked properly at that, ? , if not it needs seeing to *comes under the "not properly repaired" chat with the insurance.
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Aug 8th, 2018, 22:42 | #9 | |
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Quote:
Any tyre bulges? probably would judder all the time, but worth looking at. Did the repairing garage have to remove the brake discs? If they did then unless the mating surfaced were cleaned properly with a wire brush or wet and dry sandpaper, a flake of rust etc could cause the disc to run out of true causing judder. Did the garage say why you need new discs and pads? Discs have a minimum thickness, so do pads. Did they give you any numbers to back it up? |
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