New 2002 V70 owner

themule · Jun 8th, 2021, 08:32

Hello all, I am new to the forum and wanted to introduce myself. I picked up a 2002 2.4 V70 yesterday for £750. Mileage is 178k and it is an auto. It's the first Volvo I have owned. It's not perfect, the rear drivers side door has a dent, there is a bit of rust on a couple of arches but mechanically it seems fine and it has been well serviced. One issue I discovered on the way home is that the indicators blink very fast and an indicator bulb warning comes up - I guess that might be a bad contact somewhere. Also the high beam headlights come on when you pull the stalk back but it doesn't stick on - maybe I am missing something. Other than that it is mega comfy and easy to drive. The reason I got it is my main car is an RS Megane, which isnt that practical and I wanted something to shift stuff for a few projects we are doing this summer and use in bad weather this winter.
What are people's thoughts on getting wheel arch rust sorted? Any ideas on costs? I am in 2 minds on changing auto box oil, don't think it has ever been done but it shifts fine for an old style auto - seem to be different opinions on that.
Andy

stuart bowes · Jun 8th, 2021, 08:40

Headlights need to be 'on' for the flasher to stick on. That's literally the only difference I can find between on and off on the headlights. The lights are on either way. Sidelight setting is the only option where headlights are off be be aware they stay on when car switched off and you'll get a flat battery. (Parking lights)

Indicator might need a new lamp holder, mine did and the front ones are a bit of a pain to replace be ready to scratch your hand up doing it lol mind you I have pretty big hands

Changing 'box fluid very very easy, plenty of threads on here discussing it, I will add some links later

stuart bowes · Jun 8th, 2021, 10:03

gearbox fluid
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303081766587

additive
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122680285440

get it warm, drop the fluid from gearbox (probably dark brown), measure accurately what comes out. put same back in allowing for additive if preferred

use a funnel with a long nozzle to reach down to the gearbox dipstick hole because that's where you fill it up

drive till warm, park flat, test fluid level.

do again 300miles later

do again 300miles later

replace compresser washer on oil bolt (I only did that on the last fill but as it turned out they came in a pack of 6 anyway)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173642215006

repeat as many times as you can be bothered / until it's coming out clean

reset gearbox oil counter using VIDA (pay someone to do it, or buy VIDA if you're planning to keep the car a while, it's somewhere aroound £100-£130 or so IIRC but well worth it)

also.. welcome

sorry didnt mean to be rude was just in a rush

themule · Jun 8th, 2021, 13:07

Thanks for that. Seems like an easy enough job.

stuart bowes · Jun 8th, 2021, 21:42

it definitely is, I think the 'debate' about it is usually centred around the different methods of changing the fluid

the one described above is pretty gentle on the box and doesn't sort of 'shock' the system. some people talk about power flushing, or what IIRC was called the gibbon method (?) something about having the engine running and using the pump in the box to circulate old and fresh oil.. just avoid all that nonsense, if nothing else it's more complicated anyway

drain out the sump. fill it up again, it's about 3ltrs per go so the 10ltr tub does 3 changes with well more than enough spare to allow for any accidental spills or top ups

as for the wheel arch rust.. same as with any car really, various levels of repair available depending how long you want to keep the car and bothered you are about perfection (Assuming you mean cosmetically on the outside?) any rust near suspension or subframe mountings etc should be checked out properly obviously

stuart bowes · Jun 8th, 2021, 21:52

one other little tip which doesnt really give you specific info but can be an indicator of problems..

on the left stalk you have the button on the end. hold than in and turn your fogs on and off again. the little message screen then lets you cycle through all the modules and says 'set' if there is a fault

anything on CEM, UEM, TCM might be problematic

that's when you hook up VIDA for more info

Jun 8th, 2021, 08:32	#1
themule New Member Last Online: Jan 22nd, 2022 19:49 Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: York	New 2002 V70 owner Hello all, I am new to the forum and wanted to introduce myself. I picked up a 2002 2.4 V70 yesterday for £750. Mileage is 178k and it is an auto. It's the first Volvo I have owned. It's not perfect, the rear drivers side door has a dent, there is a bit of rust on a couple of arches but mechanically it seems fine and it has been well serviced. One issue I discovered on the way home is that the indicators blink very fast and an indicator bulb warning comes up - I guess that might be a bad contact somewhere. Also the high beam headlights come on when you pull the stalk back but it doesn't stick on - maybe I am missing something. Other than that it is mega comfy and easy to drive. The reason I got it is my main car is an RS Megane, which isnt that practical and I wanted something to shift stuff for a few projects we are doing this summer and use in bad weather this winter. What are people's thoughts on getting wheel arch rust sorted? Any ideas on costs? I am in 2 minds on changing auto box oil, don't think it has ever been done but it shifts fine for an old style auto - seem to be different opinions on that. Andy

Jun 8th, 2021, 08:40	#2
stuart bowes trying to be helpful Last Online: Today 00:20 Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Dagenham	Headlights need to be 'on' for the flasher to stick on. That's literally the only difference I can find between on and off on the headlights. The lights are on either way. Sidelight setting is the only option where headlights are off be be aware they stay on when car switched off and you'll get a flat battery. (Parking lights) Indicator might need a new lamp holder, mine did and the front ones are a bit of a pain to replace be ready to scratch your hand up doing it lol mind you I have pretty big hands Changing 'box fluid very very easy, plenty of threads on here discussing it, I will add some links later __________________ V70 '01 auto petrol 2.4 (140) 70k ------------------------- mini project - link Last edited by stuart bowes; Jun 8th, 2021 at 10:06.

Jun 8th, 2021, 10:03	#3
stuart bowes trying to be helpful Last Online: Today 00:20 Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Dagenham	gearbox fluid https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303081766587 additive https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122680285440 get it warm, drop the fluid from gearbox (probably dark brown), measure accurately what comes out. put same back in allowing for additive if preferred use a funnel with a long nozzle to reach down to the gearbox dipstick hole because that's where you fill it up drive till warm, park flat, test fluid level. do again 300miles later do again 300miles later replace compresser washer on oil bolt (I only did that on the last fill but as it turned out they came in a pack of 6 anyway) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173642215006 repeat as many times as you can be bothered / until it's coming out clean reset gearbox oil counter using VIDA (pay someone to do it, or buy VIDA if you're planning to keep the car a while, it's somewhere aroound £100-£130 or so IIRC but well worth it) also.. welcome sorry didnt mean to be rude was just in a rush __________________ V70 '01 auto petrol 2.4 (140) 70k ------------------------- mini project - link Last edited by stuart bowes; Jun 8th, 2021 at 10:07.

Jun 8th, 2021, 21:42	#5
stuart bowes trying to be helpful Last Online: Today 00:20 Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Dagenham	it definitely is, I think the 'debate' about it is usually centred around the different methods of changing the fluid the one described above is pretty gentle on the box and doesn't sort of 'shock' the system. some people talk about power flushing, or what IIRC was called the gibbon method (?) something about having the engine running and using the pump in the box to circulate old and fresh oil.. just avoid all that nonsense, if nothing else it's more complicated anyway drain out the sump. fill it up again, it's about 3ltrs per go so the 10ltr tub does 3 changes with well more than enough spare to allow for any accidental spills or top ups as for the wheel arch rust.. same as with any car really, various levels of repair available depending how long you want to keep the car and bothered you are about perfection (Assuming you mean cosmetically on the outside?) any rust near suspension or subframe mountings etc should be checked out properly obviously __________________ V70 '01 auto petrol 2.4 (140) 70k ------------------------- mini project - link Last edited by stuart bowes; Jun 8th, 2021 at 21:48.

Jun 8th, 2021, 21:52	#6
stuart bowes trying to be helpful Last Online: Today 00:20 Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Dagenham	one other little tip which doesnt really give you specific info but can be an indicator of problems.. on the left stalk you have the button on the end. hold than in and turn your fogs on and off again. the little message screen then lets you cycle through all the modules and says 'set' if there is a fault anything on CEM, UEM, TCM might be problematic that's when you hook up VIDA for more info __________________ V70 '01 auto petrol 2.4 (140) 70k ------------------------- mini project - link

Jun 8th, 2021, 13:07	#4
themule New Member Last Online: Jan 22nd, 2022 19:49 Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: York	Thanks for that. Seems like an easy enough job.

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