how to disconnect volvo guard alarm 940 se - Page 6

Forrest · Mar 5th, 2018, 18:52

There are two problems that I’ve previously encountered with the remote.

Firstly, if despite fresh batteries inserted correctly, you get no red light on the remote when you press the button there is a small two-pin component on the PCB inside the remote that seems prone to coming detached. This can be tested by judicious prodding with the batteries held in place and the case removed. A permanent fix can often be achieved with a drop of solder.

Also, there is a trimpot in the triangular thing on the A pillar that tunes the receiving circuit to the frequency of the remote. If the remote is working but only operates if held right next to the triangular receiver then retuning using this may repair it. The top should just lift off the triangular thing. It was originally glued, but the glue deteriorates with time. I found I couldn’t achieve a lasting retune and had to replace the little blue trimpot. It is a Murata TZB4Z060AB10R00 variable capacitor with range from 2 to 6pf.

Both these repairs are written up elsewhere on the forum.

TheLeeds · Mar 5th, 2018, 20:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hickory Chris

Hi, my 1993 Volvo came without a keyfob so I have been happily running it for 6 year without needing to use the alarm.
I have changed the battery and the Status diodes flash on for 3 secs. + the door open sensor diode. And yes, this does drain the battery.
Apart from keeping the old girl on a trickle charger, I'm stumped. All the posts seem to be aimed at those who have a fob and can id their Guard system.
I should like to disconnect the whole alarm, I should grateful for advice. Chris@oldlinksgolf.com

So did mine. It didn't bother me, until one day it suddenly set itself and locked me out whilst at the local tip. I unlocked it and the alarm went off. Tried to start the car, but the immobiliser said no. RAC refused to help, but that's another story (see post elsewhere) and I got someone to tow me home.

It took me about half an hour online to find how to disable the immobiliser. All I did was remove the lower dashboard panel on the drivers side, cut a cable tie holding some wires round the steering column, then removed an inline fuse. Car worked fine, as before, and as I didn't have a remote, the lack of functionality from that was no great loss, on the basis you don't miss what you've never had.

undertaker · Oct 15th, 2018, 18:06

Can anyone help please? I have a 960 with guard 1 alarm system. I don't have the remote and have not been using the alarm for some time but the car battery died. On replacing the battery the alarm is in alarm condition with car immobilised and indicators flashing. Both led's are on in the guard control in the windscreen. Is it possible to disconnect this alarm or bypass it without the remote? Thanks in advance. Bill

jpliddy · Oct 15th, 2018, 18:40

hi bill it is easy to disconnect the alarm i take it you have the grey fob like me . as the chap above explained his fuse is under the drivers side panel it will be amongst some wiring probably cable tied . just pull the fuse mine is there too i have been told this job is a dealer job and not factor fitted . first lift the bonnet and it may be mounted on the right hand suspension strut area if you see a fuse holder there then thats it . that means the alarm was fitted in the factory .let us know if that works
regards jim

undertaker · Oct 15th, 2018, 18:47

Hi Eric
Could you please send me a message how to dis arm the volvo guard 1 on my 960? It's immobilised right now as the car battery died and I replaced it but the alarm is in triggered mode. I don't have the remote so casnnot deactivate it. Thanks, Bill

undertaker · Oct 15th, 2018, 19:12

Thanks for that Jim. Just had a look under the bonnet and can't see an in line fuse anywhere there so will look under the dash tomorrow as it's dark now! Thanks for your help. Bill

jpliddy · Oct 16th, 2018, 08:35

hi
the fuse was about above my right knee on my car amongst some wiring .
i had a alarm issue a few years ago the car was imbolised but on disconnecting the fuse then waiting a while i put fuse back and the alarm is now working normally . we have all sorts of gremlins going on from time to time but overall when you get to know these cars they are fixable more than i can say for the newer generation volvos . had my car 19 years 258000 miles now
keep us informed !

undertaker · Oct 16th, 2018, 11:37

No luck with this. Found an in line fuse from battery and disconnected but made no difference. Took panel cover off under steering wheel and cannot find an in line fuse there. Found the cable from the guard control unit and diconnected yellow plug behind the ashtray, this kills the leds in the guard but made no difference to the alarm situation. There must be a way to get round this. Any ideas. This is a 960 not a 940 so maybe the wiring is different?
Thanks

undertaker · Oct 16th, 2018, 12:58

Have now got to the alarm control unit which is behind the radio and ashtray.

undertaker · Oct 16th, 2018, 16:49

I have jumped the 210 211 alarm module pins 50E and 50F. Tried with module plugged in and also unplugged and still will not crank?

Oct 15th, 2018, 18:06	#53
undertaker New Member Last Online: Jan 5th, 2023 10:55 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Bradford	Guard 1 alarm problem on 960 1995 Can anyone help please? I have a 960 with guard 1 alarm system. I don't have the remote and have not been using the alarm for some time but the car battery died. On replacing the battery the alarm is in alarm condition with car immobilised and indicators flashing. Both led's are on in the guard control in the windscreen. Is it possible to disconnect this alarm or bypass it without the remote? Thanks in advance. Bill

Oct 15th, 2018, 18:40	#54
jpliddy VOC Member Last Online: Feb 15th, 2024 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: stoke on trent	940 tdi auto 1995 hi bill it is easy to disconnect the alarm i take it you have the grey fob like me . as the chap above explained his fuse is under the drivers side panel it will be amongst some wiring probably cable tied . just pull the fuse mine is there too i have been told this job is a dealer job and not factor fitted . first lift the bonnet and it may be mounted on the right hand suspension strut area if you see a fuse holder there then thats it . that means the alarm was fitted in the factory .let us know if that works regards jim

Oct 16th, 2018, 08:35	#57
jpliddy VOC Member Last Online: Feb 15th, 2024 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: stoke on trent	940 tdi auto 1995 hi the fuse was about above my right knee on my car amongst some wiring . i had a alarm issue a few years ago the car was imbolised but on disconnecting the fuse then waiting a while i put fuse back and the alarm is now working normally . we have all sorts of gremlins going on from time to time but overall when you get to know these cars they are fixable more than i can say for the newer generation volvos . had my car 19 years 258000 miles now keep us informed !

Oct 16th, 2018, 11:37	#58
undertaker New Member Last Online: Jan 5th, 2023 10:55 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Bradford	Volvo 960 1996 No luck with this. Found an in line fuse from battery and disconnected but made no difference. Took panel cover off under steering wheel and cannot find an in line fuse there. Found the cable from the guard control unit and diconnected yellow plug behind the ashtray, this kills the leds in the guard but made no difference to the alarm situation. There must be a way to get round this. Any ideas. This is a 960 not a 940 so maybe the wiring is different? Thanks

Mar 5th, 2018, 18:52	#51
Forrest VOC Member Last Online: Today 08:23 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Gloucester	There are two problems that I’ve previously encountered with the remote. Firstly, if despite fresh batteries inserted correctly, you get no red light on the remote when you press the button there is a small two-pin component on the PCB inside the remote that seems prone to coming detached. This can be tested by judicious prodding with the batteries held in place and the case removed. A permanent fix can often be achieved with a drop of solder. Also, there is a trimpot in the triangular thing on the A pillar that tunes the receiving circuit to the frequency of the remote. If the remote is working but only operates if held right next to the triangular receiver then retuning using this may repair it. The top should just lift off the triangular thing. It was originally glued, but the glue deteriorates with time. I found I couldn’t achieve a lasting retune and had to replace the little blue trimpot. It is a Murata TZB4Z060AB10R00 variable capacitor with range from 2 to 6pf. Both these repairs are written up elsewhere on the forum.

Oct 15th, 2018, 18:47	#55
undertaker New Member Last Online: Jan 5th, 2023 10:55 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Bradford	Hi Eric Could you please send me a message how to dis arm the volvo guard 1 on my 960? It's immobilised right now as the car battery died and I replaced it but the alarm is in triggered mode. I don't have the remote so casnnot deactivate it. Thanks, Bill

Oct 15th, 2018, 19:12	#56
undertaker New Member Last Online: Jan 5th, 2023 10:55 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Bradford	Thanks for that Jim. Just had a look under the bonnet and can't see an in line fuse anywhere there so will look under the dash tomorrow as it's dark now! Thanks for your help. Bill

Oct 16th, 2018, 12:58	#59
undertaker New Member Last Online: Jan 5th, 2023 10:55 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Bradford	Have now got to the alarm control unit which is behind the radio and ashtray.

Oct 16th, 2018, 16:49	#60
undertaker New Member Last Online: Jan 5th, 2023 10:55 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Bradford	I have jumped the 210 211 alarm module pins 50E and 50F. Tried with module plugged in and also unplugged and still will not crank?

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