91 Torslanda -Fuel Filter renewal

Apr 11th, 2006, 08:49

I am about to renew the fuel filter as part of a major service operation. Having recced the unit (underneath - NS) it appears it would be easier to release the rear banjo by unbolting and dropping the main "tray bracket" holding the pump and filter to do this rather than trying to do it in situ.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this as to whether this is the best way or otherwise ?

Many thanks

ivor940 · Apr 11th, 2006, 10:29

Hi, one tip on changing the fuel filter is to hava a drip tray or basin to catch the fuel which will come out. If the released fuel is left to settle, it can be used in lawnmower afterwards. You may want to use latex gloves to protect your hands and use cardboard to protect cobbelock driveway from stains. Note that if the fuel system is working correctly, there will be pressure fuel ( about 45 psi) in the pipe going to the engine ( watch your eyes). A golf tee can be used to block the fuel pipe while you change the filter. Be careful not to bend the short cross pipe from the fuel pump too much when undoing the connections onto the filter( which can be quite tight) . Also note that the arrow on the fuel filter will face to the rear. It seems wrong but is correct as the fuel flow to the engine is aft at the filter. It then goes forwards. Do release the carrier ( 3 nuts) to give better access. If you do not get new copper washers with the filter, anneal the old ones ( well away from the spilt fuel) by heating them to cherry red and letting them cool slowly.

ivor940

Clifford Pope · Apr 11th, 2006, 13:08

I think you are meant to remove the fuse and run the engine till the pressure is relieved. I didn't bother, but be warned, petrol will spray everywhere.
You need really good well-fitting spanners, and another on the flats on the filter to stop it turning. The bolts on mine were unbelievably tight, to the point where I was in danger of breaking something or irretrievably rounding the flats.
I just reused the washers, but put them back on loosely immediately so that they stayed the same way round, and jiggled them a bit as I tightened the bolts.

ivor940 · Apr 11th, 2006, 13:27

Hi, I agree with Clifford re the tightness of the joints. I nearly broke the interconnector pipe when things slipped a bit. I did think of refitting the carrier & slightly loosning the connections in situ but there is no room to attach spanners.

ivor940

Apr 11th, 2006, 15:03

Many thanks for your replies - much appreciated
Yes - I am going tol de-pressure the system by removing fuse No. 4( primary fuel pump) and running the engine until it stalls.
I was afraid the banjos would be tight and it would seem that this will be the case
Again many thanks

Peter D · Apr 11th, 2006, 15:55

Do you have replacement copper washers. If not then anneal the ones you have ( heat up to dull red and plunge into cold water ) then rub them flat on a piece of wet and dry on a flat surface 1000 grit. Re assemble on the bench just leaving the main feed connection banjo for under the car. Do not strain the pump to filter connection. do up the banjo with the filter clamp loose and a spanner on the filter to take the strain. then secure the filter with a relaxed link pipe. When complete link fuses 4 and 6 and let the pump run for 3 to 4 mins before starting the car. Regards Peter

Apr 11th, 2006, 08:49	#1
rossassocs Guest Location:	91 Torslanda -Fuel Filter renewal I am about to renew the fuel filter as part of a major service operation. Having recced the unit (underneath - NS) it appears it would be easier to release the rear banjo by unbolting and dropping the main "tray bracket" holding the pump and filter to do this rather than trying to do it in situ. Does anyone have any thoughts on this as to whether this is the best way or otherwise ? Many thanks

Apr 11th, 2006, 15:03	#5
rossassocs Guest Location:	Fuel Filter - Torslanda Many thanks for your replies - much appreciated Yes - I am going tol de-pressure the system by removing fuse No. 4( primary fuel pump) and running the engine until it stalls. I was afraid the banjos would be tight and it would seem that this will be the case Again many thanks

Apr 11th, 2006, 10:29	#2
ivor940 Master Member Last Online: Sep 16th, 2013 07:55 Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Malahide View Photos By: ivor940	Hi, one tip on changing the fuel filter is to hava a drip tray or basin to catch the fuel which will come out. If the released fuel is left to settle, it can be used in lawnmower afterwards. You may want to use latex gloves to protect your hands and use cardboard to protect cobbelock driveway from stains. Note that if the fuel system is working correctly, there will be pressure fuel ( about 45 psi) in the pipe going to the engine ( watch your eyes). A golf tee can be used to block the fuel pipe while you change the filter. Be careful not to bend the short cross pipe from the fuel pump too much when undoing the connections onto the filter( which can be quite tight) . Also note that the arrow on the fuel filter will face to the rear. It seems wrong but is correct as the fuel flow to the engine is aft at the filter. It then goes forwards. Do release the carrier ( 3 nuts) to give better access. If you do not get new copper washers with the filter, anneal the old ones ( well away from the spilt fuel) by heating them to cherry red and letting them cool slowly. ivor940

Apr 11th, 2006, 13:08	#3
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: Apr 26th, 2024 12:45 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	I think you are meant to remove the fuse and run the engine till the pressure is relieved. I didn't bother, but be warned, petrol will spray everywhere. You need really good well-fitting spanners, and another on the flats on the filter to stop it turning. The bolts on mine were unbelievably tight, to the point where I was in danger of breaking something or irretrievably rounding the flats. I just reused the washers, but put them back on loosely immediately so that they stayed the same way round, and jiggled them a bit as I tightened the bolts.

Apr 11th, 2006, 13:27	#4
ivor940 Master Member Last Online: Sep 16th, 2013 07:55 Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Malahide View Photos By: ivor940	Hi, I agree with Clifford re the tightness of the joints. I nearly broke the interconnector pipe when things slipped a bit. I did think of refitting the carrier & slightly loosning the connections in situ but there is no room to attach spanners. ivor940

Apr 11th, 2006, 15:55	#6
Peter D Peter D Last Online: Mar 2nd, 2015 21:03 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Livingston	Do you have replacement copper washers. If not then anneal the ones you have ( heat up to dull red and plunge into cold water ) then rub them flat on a piece of wet and dry on a flat surface 1000 grit. Re assemble on the bench just leaving the main feed connection banjo for under the car. Do not strain the pump to filter connection. do up the banjo with the filter clamp loose and a spanner on the filter to take the strain. then secure the filter with a relaxed link pipe. When complete link fuses 4 and 6 and let the pump run for 3 to 4 mins before starting the car. Regards Peter

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