V70 P1 oil cooler

[MikeS100]

Just a thought, where is the auxiliary cooler fitted? I'm assuming it would be fairly obvious if it was fitted and not hidden away somewhere because it needs the air flow. I've obviously never seen it, but the fact my temperature is lower than expected does make me wonder if one had been fitted before and I'm just looking in the wrong place...

Whilst that would be embarassing it would be nice to know I've been worrying for nothing!

[dingov70]

Look to the end tanks on side of the rad , as you will find two metal pipe screwed in . these are your cooler lines . with out strooling outside & ripping my bonnet open & i am sure they are on the passenger side of the radiator .

[CPH]

Originally Posted by MikeS100

Have you got a link to the cooler you fitted? I'm 95% decided that I'm just going to leave it as it is and just monitor the temperature but part of my is still tempted to fit one just to make sure. I would have to fit a thermostat as well though because without towing it peaked at 69 degrees around town and was pretty steady around 56 degrees on the motorway so I wouldn't want it over cooling.

Hi Mike, sorry, hadn't realised you'd replied to my comment. I don't have a link sorry as I purchased a new old-stock Kenlowe cooler with all the fittings via eBay. It was brand spanking new in its box, obviously somebody had purchased it with good intentions but had never fitted it.

Mocal will do an equivalent oil cooler off the shelf though. If you pop along to Demon Tweeks website they'll have all variety of options. Pick which one you want and then search eBay for the same cooler at a cheaper price!

Hope this helps. If you need anything else I'll keep an eye on the thread or feel free to PM me.

[MikeS100]

Originally Posted by dingov70

Look to the end tanks on side of the rad , as you will find two metal pipe screwed in . these are your cooler lines . with out strooling outside & ripping my bonnet open & i am sure they are on the passenger side of the radiator .

Thanks, pretty sure there isn't anything there but I will have a look after work tomorrow to double check

Originally Posted by CPH

Hi Mike, sorry, hadn't realised you'd replied to my comment. I don't have a link sorry as I purchased a new old-stock Kenlowe cooler with all the fittings via eBay. It was brand spanking new in its box, obviously somebody had purchased it with good intentions but had never fitted it.

Mocal will do an equivalent oil cooler off the shelf though. If you pop along to Demon Tweeks website they'll have all variety of options. Pick which one you want and then search eBay for the same cooler at a cheaper price!

Hope this helps. If you need anything else I'll keep an eye on the thread or feel free to PM me.

Thanks for the tip, I will have a look and see what's available

[CNGBiFuel]

Do not confuse the stock warmer / cooler all cars with auto transmissions have (see mine cut out from where it is bathed in the coolant rad) with the optional Aux cooler.

This is why I'm wondering if it's necessary though, it seems low compared to the values I have seen online. So 110 degrees driving through town is acceptable and won't burn the oil?

Toyota & Saab ATF interval is 60,000, ours is sealed for life. We have the same box. These things are under-cooled. 110 leaves little margin which is why pound to a penny yours doesn't shift like mine. Your ATF is black. You are looking for 80-85. 95 if you must.

As i think I said I ahve done 40,000 since my last flush and found my ATF not brown, but black and smelling burnt. It still shifted OKish and would have been OK I suspect for another 30,000 but that's hardly wise? New fluid and its 2nd flush definitely improved things as it got hot.

Volvospeak
1. Sealed for life = Life of the warranty.
2. Aux cooler for towing = Towing cooks the ATF inside warranty miles. "Ah, sorry to hear Sir, no cooler Sir?"

[MikeS100]

Originally Posted by CNGBiFuel

These things are under-cooled. 110 leaves little margin which is why pound to a penny yours doesn't shift like mine. Your ATF is black.

Although the largest thing I have towed before is a trailer, even on 170,000 miles the gear change is the smoothest I have ever driven and when I changed the oil at the beginning of the year it was a very healthy red/brown colour.

As far as I'm aware it has never reached 110 degrees, but I'm just trying to work out if it will still function at that temperature, even if it does shorten the life of the oil.

[CNGBiFuel]

110? It'll run at 150. So? You might be missing the point. For whatever reason you appear to be one of the lucky ones. Perjhaps yours really does run cool. although I seriously doubt it.
All I know is this, when I raided Lake's yard (Wyboston) and did for four of these to grab sets of hoses so that I could cobble my own longer version into something, as I unhooked the bottom hose on not one but the second, third and fourth car to get my hoses, the ATF on all was properly black.

And the de facto reason for many of them being there in the first instance was the things come in as non-drivers because of PCV or box issues. And the 'man' said, the box is hsi favourite killer of these because it is most prevalant and becaue it is somethign few will bother to change, so good or bad, boxes have no value to him other thatn their weight - yet he gets stock for his yard.

[c_lee]

Interesting subject this.

I replaced my failed original AW50-42LE during the past 12 months and intended to fit an auxiliary ATF cooler I had bought previously on eBay but couldn't fit it in an airflow area so currently have no additional ATF cooler fitted - and I tow so am keen to fit one.

We have just returned from towing our caravan for about 700 miles during this hot weather and no problems were encountered but I am on the case for an additional cooler.

BTW Mike - the ATF temperature sensor on the AW50-42LE is fitted in the lower part of the box near where the dipstick tube mounts - 2 wires to connect and no other sensors nearby IIRC.

Since we returned from our towing trip I have sampled the ATF again and there is some slight discolouring but that was to be expected as I had to use the TC from the original box when I did the replacement and am using the original ATF cooler in the original radiator ( I have a forum post detailing the box replacement ).

A previous sample taken a few months ago before heavy towing use showed similar slight discolouring too so I am inclined to think that disturbed deposits are the cause.

The replacement box was obviously a used one so some deposits will have been disturbed in the couple of thousand miles since completion causing some discolouring.

A point of interest that maybe of use to others is that to sample the ATF I made up a sampling syringe using a turkey baster with a semi rigid plastic tube tightly fitted to the pointy end and use it to draw a small amount of ATF from the dipstick tube then squirt it into a small glass bottle to view.

This thread has really made me think that I need to get my cooler act together.

Think I need to consider the original fill after box replacement is essentially a cleaning flush fill and should do a Gibbons flush soon but I needed to give time for those deposits to be disturbed and suspended in the ATF.

Colin

[MikeS100]

Well after a short test with the caravan over the weekend I will admit defeat and acknowledge that I need an oil cooler. Oil temperature peaked at 117 which is much too high for me to be comfortable with. I'm not going to pay volvo for the proper unit and I don't fancy a second hand one so I've been looking at this:

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/perfor...oil-cooler-kit

I imagine this would be fairly easy to fit in series but can anyone tell me if this looks like it has the right connectors and everything to plumb in to the existing pipe work?

Thanks

[CPH]

Mike, it should have everything included in the kit to enable you to run it after the standard heat exchanger in the rad.

You will need to cut the transmission return hose from the existing cooler/heat exchanger and run this to the new cooler but the kit should include a couple of 3/8" steel hose inserts and jubilee clips to easily allow you to do this. You then just run the return hose from the new cooler to the other part of the return hose going to the gearbox using the same method.

If you get stuck just let me know and I'll happily get some pics of my install for you if you need a visual reference.

The biggest pain in fitting the cooler was physically installing the cooler matrix in the front of the car. Splicing it into the existing cooler lines was straight forward.

I hope you manage to get it installed ok, I'm sure you will, and I'd be interested to know what difference it makes to your ATF temperature. I don't currently have a way of monitoring the temperature of mine so I'm just taking it on faith that the extra cooler was worth the bother - I'm sure it was though.

Eventually I would like to install a couple of temp gauges in the car to keep an eye on things in real time, one thing at a time though.