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Positive Crankcase Ventilation Clean Up.

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Old Apr 23rd, 2011, 21:17   #11
farewelltoernest
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Umm...
my engine looks different.

I don't have that rubber boot thing,
and under the throttle my parts look like attached image.
How do I do this? ahhhhh
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Old Apr 24th, 2011, 09:37   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farewelltoernest View Post
Umm...
my engine looks different.

I don't have that rubber boot thing,
and under the throttle my parts look like attached image.
How do I do this? ahhhhh
You may have the multi-point injection system as on my late 2 litre SE (everyone always seems to criticise!)

If so you need to clean the pipe that comes from the top side of the inlet manifold towards the drivers side of the car. Follow that pipe down until you come across the flame trap that looks to be the same as the one on earlier single point injection models. Do be careful with the flame trap because as said previously the plastic is very brittle- I had to repair a previous bodge where someone had been too heavy handed some time before!

Mine was so bad it took ages to get a single piece of wire through the thin pipe which was so full of oily crud. The difference since has been marked- much smoother and rev happy.

Hope this helps. Good luck!
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Old Apr 24th, 2011, 21:02   #13
farewelltoernest
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Thank you man! I'll take a look at it this coming weekend.

I'm not sure if it's multi-point injection.
As far as I know it's just a run of the mill 1989 b230f,
but maybe it's a little bit different as a USA model?
I'm not sure. My manifold looks different then most of the pictures. More like an octopus, really.

I am certain that the system is clogged though. There is oil all over the block and my (now bad) knock sensor. I'm also leaking from my front engine seal, so It's probably been neglected for a long time.

My Haynes manual goes over the pcv system, but only very briefly, and it does not describe replacement or cleaning of the flame trap or how to get to it.




Is it just exposed, or do I have to remove the intake manifold, or??

I apologize for my ignorance, I'm just new to cars really, so any additional advice would be greatly appreciated! I want my little brick to get better, as she has to drive from Phoenix, Arizona to Seattle, Washington in 32 days.

Last edited by farewelltoernest; Apr 24th, 2011 at 21:26.
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Old Apr 24th, 2011, 21:31   #14
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Your car should have Bosch LH Jetronic 2.4 fuel injection. The PCV system is much easier to access, the flame trap is between the intake manifold runners for cylinders 3 and 4. The small hose runs over the top of the manifold to a nipple in the middle, the bog one loops under the back of the manifold and connects to the intake hose just before the throttle body.
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Old Apr 24th, 2011, 22:38   #15
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Thanks for your input, wooble!

Although the descriptions help, I'm still not exactly sure where to look and what to take apart. I've attached some pictures of my engine, if anyone would be willing to take them into mspaint and maybe draw some arrows to where I should be looking, it would help me exponentially.

Now, keep in mind you're dealing with a dummy here.
All I've done on my 240 is pads, rotors, and the fuel filter, and even then I had somebody knowledgeable helping me out. This time I am flying solo.
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Old Apr 25th, 2011, 00:45   #16
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More photos from the driver's side (passenger side over here)
for reference. I think I've found the pipe in question, but when I run along it seems to just go right back into the other side of the manifold, so maybe I'm wrong :\
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Old Apr 25th, 2011, 01:46   #17
John Sweeney
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I've got the same injection set-up, and by chance I did mine this morning.

Now, I'm no mechanical expert so I hope you'll pardon the non-mechanical lingo, but if you look at the first photo of your last post, go straight up from the 'L' of 'Volvo' and that medium sized rubber pipe in the shadows is part of the PCV system. Where it gets widest, between the first and second injector (counting from the left), is where the filter/flame trap thingy is. It'll be pressed into a rather delicate plastic housing, so do take care. Mine was made of brass, but I gather most are the white plastic type shown in Paul's original post.

Also from the filter housing will come a smaller diameter pipe which goes from the filter into the manifold. Again, if we look at your picture, it's the pipe curving round above the 'V' of 'Volvo'. All three rubber pipes attached to the housing are a press-fit. When I did mine this morning, I took the housing out of the car, cleaned the filter, the smaller pipe, the brass connector going into the manifold and I wiped out the housing.

Hope this helps!
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Old Apr 25th, 2011, 02:38   #18
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Thanks John! I'm going to take a look at it tomorrow morning and see if I might be able to clean it up a bit.

One other thing, I just ran the car to go get some lunch and it seemed to be running pretty hot (unrelated thermostat issue)

so I popped the hood on the way back and took note of a few oil deposits I hadn't noticed before.

The first one is in the area right below the oil cap. There was fresh oil there. Not all that much but a noticable amount.

The second was the flat area against the block (below the coolant temperature and knock temperature sensors)

and the third was oddly enough, under the distributor.

Are these caused by the clogged PCV valves?
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Old Apr 25th, 2011, 11:14   #19
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I think it's pretty likely that they could be. Perhaps if there's a blockage somewhere in the PCV system, the pressure might try to find other routes?

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Old Apr 25th, 2011, 11:30   #20
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Whilst it obviously helps if you can identify all the pipes and know what they do, you don't need to get too hung up about them.

Rule 1 - never remove more than one pipe at a time!

Then just pull off or unclip each pipe in turn, and make sure it is clean. Check that the rubber isn't perishing or flaking on the inside - a hose can look fine outside but be collapsing inside.
Especially check the thin hose is free, and the small orifice in the pipe it fits over on the manifold.

It would also be worthwhile removing the large convoluted air intake hose. Undo the hoses at the manifold end and leave them dangling so you know where to reconnect. Inspect the convolutions carefully to see it isn't cracking, and clean out any oily deposits.
With the intake pipe removed you can squirt carb cleaner into the intake, and with a soft rag on your finger you can clean inside the throttle body and flap when you turn the throttle by hand.

Finally there will be an Idle Air Valve underneath the manifold, This is a horizontal alloy tube about 4 " long, with an electrical connector at the rear, and two rubber hoses at the other end. It is a press fit in a rubber holder.
It is well worth cleaning the rotating valve with carb cleaner and a soft brush, and poking the rotating valve round with something blunt, like the other end of a fine paintbrush. Check that it is clean and snaps back nearly closed when you rotate and release it.

You definitely have themulti-point system. The alloy pipe running along the top of the manifold has 4 fuel injectors under it, leading to the 4 cylinders.
Don't disturb any of that.
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