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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Prop shaft centre bearing.Views : 2236 Replies : 43Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 20th, 2020, 09:05 | #11 |
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Here we go again...
Inside the female socket of the front half shaft is a 'keyway', more a space (see 'A' on the photo below, and the black mark 'B' on the outer edge).
On the UJ at the front end of the rear half shaft there is a cast 'button' (see 'C' on the second photo). When you get these lined up not only does it fit together easily but the two shafts will be back in their proper, balanced alignment. It is very easy to kid yourself that the shafts are properly marked for later assembly, but lining up the button with the keyway is pretty foolproof. |
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Oct 21st, 2020, 09:40 | #12 | |
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Oct 21st, 2020, 09:41 | #13 | |
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I am now faced with removing the bearing and housing. Haynes recommends brute force. For a bearing that is intended to be re-used. I think that is bad advice. However, I have new bearing and housing. When I acquired a V70, the front wheel bearing was noisy. I bought spring compressors prior to changing it. After reading the procedure, I asked a garage to do it. Not often I exhibit such common sense! It was expensive. Perhaps the spring compressors can be contrived to pull off the housing and avoid me having to make another widget! Edit'- Te spring compressors worked. I drilled a plate with two Ψ16 holes at the same separation distance as the compressor claws once seated on the shaft, took off one claw and reversed the other. It engaged nicely on the end of the bearing which came off without too much effort. I don't understand why the female end of the spline has a gap without a wide tooth to slide into it. There is a hint of damage to the male spline with a little lump sticking up. I'll run a rotary scratch brush down the "teeth" to see if that eases the fit. At the moment, it ain't goin' anywhere! Last edited by GrahamWright; Oct 21st, 2020 at 11:10. |
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Oct 21st, 2020, 16:10 | #14 |
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After cleaning the spline and removing the nib the joint slides together nicely.
Next problem. Checking on Youtube videos for tips, I find there are several assembly directions. The original which I am replacing had the large diameter metal shroud over the female spline. Some videos show it the other direction. Does it matter? The rubber dust cover sits on the male spline I am sure (but I could do with a new one which ebay isn't obliging with). The two metal covers supplied with the housing are different from the originals. They can be fitted "pointing" outwards or inwards. Should they rotate with the shafts or be lodged in the housing? I have looked in vain for exploded view diagrams. |
Oct 21st, 2020, 17:53 | #15 |
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Oct 21st, 2020, 19:11 | #16 | ||
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If the new bearing has "2Z" or "ZZ" on it, they are metal dust shields integral with the bearing - as such the extra rubber dust cover is not strictly necessary although nice to have.
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Oct 22nd, 2020, 09:47 | #17 | |
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Oct 22nd, 2020, 09:53 | #18 | |
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Thanks for the steer. |
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Oct 25th, 2020, 11:06 | #19 |
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It's all back together again. The vibration at 30 mph has gone
to be replaced by another starting at 40mph.
What have I done wrong. The splined joint is correctly mated. Would it be correct to assume the pro-shaft is balanced in isolation from the vehicle? It would seem to be difficult on the car. Perhaps, despite my confidence, the front and rear flanges have not mated in the original positions. Should this matter? |
Oct 25th, 2020, 11:41 | #20 | |
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Take the car for a drive, GENTLY accelerating to the speed where the vibration starts then let the car slow naturally to below this speed and return home. Avoid all harsh acceleration and braking while the bolts have been loosened. Crawl under again and tighten a SMALL AMOUNT AT A TIME each bolt in turn until they are tight again. Take for another test drive to confirm the vibration has gone. DO NOT JACK THE CAR to enable you to crawl under to reach the bolts. If necessary use a pair of ramps.
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