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Old Oct 9th, 2018, 23:04   #111
TomSaintJames
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We will need it as a utility vehicle when we move house, but that is likely to be a month or so away yet, otherwise it isn't needed as such, it'd just be useful to have a 2nd vehicle on the road. Now it's untaxed it isn't really costing anything asides insurance, and i'd have that anyway so now tomorrow's MOT is cancelled the pressure is off a little bit.

In case you're wondering why out of the 4 cars we have, only 1 is on the road... The AX is for sale and the BX is OTR pending some fairly in-depth preventative maintenance and improvement, so only have the Venga currently road worthy, and that is the OH's car (thank goodness) and all persuasive efforts to change it for something nicer/better/more fun/faster etc have failed. There's nothing wrong with it, infact it's been very reliable over the years. It's just rather boring in most aspects that a car could be! It's not even that economical, we usually get low 50's mpg which is no where near the quoted 62mpg in the handbook. It has been remapped, originally ran @ 99bhp, now 120bhp. Interesting that it was running at 9bhp above quoted figures as standard.
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Old Oct 9th, 2018, 23:27   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomSaintJames View Post
There's nothing wrong with it,
It's diesel.

That aside, what's the state of play on the lights now Tom?
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Old Oct 10th, 2018, 08:54   #113
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The turbo shove is nice, especially as it's been remapped,but the lag is terrible and it tails off quite quickly.

With the lights, they are as I left them Monday morning, which is with fully functional bumper lights, but still duff fog and brake lights on the RHS proper light unit.

My next plan is to either fit a new earth to each cluster or just say to hell with it and re-wire the RHS, and if necessary the LHS too. does anyone know if the number plate lights are be fed from just one side (LHS it appears), or is the LHS fed by left light cluster and RHS by right?
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Old Oct 10th, 2018, 10:49   #114
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Quote:
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The turbo shove is nice, especially as it's been remapped,but the lag is terrible and it tails off quite quickly.

With the lights, they are as I left them Monday morning, which is with fully functional bumper lights, but still duff fog and brake lights on the RHS proper light unit.

My next plan is to either fit a new earth to each cluster or just say to hell with it and re-wire the RHS, and if necessary the LHS too. does anyone know if the number plate lights are be fed from just one side (LHS it appears), or is the LHS fed by left light cluster and RHS by right?
First thing to do is that earth connection on the right hand cluster then, where it looks like the insulation on the earth wire between the PCB and the stud is trapped.

It might be an idea to run a "cross bond" earth between the left and right clusters. The number plate lights are indeed fed from the left hand sidelight circuit.
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Old Oct 10th, 2018, 17:55   #115
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I wish you well with re-wiring. I would make three recommendations:
  • Consider using silicone insulated wires with many fine strands of copper conductor for the section that goes alongside the hinges. That will survive repeated flexing better.
  • Consider making short "looms" for wires alongside the hinges, with good quality connectors. That will make the hinge associated wiring far easier to replace in future. Perhaps prepare a spare pair of looms to keep in your spares box.
  • Document the eventual wiring. Not just online. On paper and keep a copy with the vehicle.

Good luck.
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Old Oct 10th, 2018, 19:14   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
First thing to do is that earth connection on the right hand cluster then, where it looks like the insulation on the earth wire between the PCB and the stud is trapped.

It might be an idea to run a "cross bond" earth between the left and right clusters. The number plate lights are indeed fed from the left hand sidelight circuit.
I sorted that earth wire, eventually found a ring connector at the bottom of my toolbox, it took some cleaning!

All sensible suggestions Stephen - thanks, I will do just that. Great idea of having a removable section of the wiring loom around the hinge area.

I've been thinking about how best to sort the hinge area wiring, and wondered if I could find a similar thing that MK2 Astra's use for their rear wiper motors, (see pic) a metal plate on the car's body connects with three sprung, retractable brass pins on the boot lid. When the boot is closed, the circuit is closed and the motor works. I feel that this principle could be use don the hearse, wire flex is then not an issue. I'd need one each side, and for it to have more than three pins, what do we think?
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Old Oct 10th, 2018, 20:29   #117
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I wouldn't use silicone insulated cable for the loom Tom - one simple reason is that to get it tight, you'll need to wrap it.

Wrapping it means you will compromise the insulation, it's a lot more fragile than PVC insulation and the cost of silicone insulated cable would probably be prohibitive.

The Astra tailgate connector is a good idea and one i was going to suggest later once you'd got the lights working. They also have their problems but are much easier to work with to resolve.

There are other similar connectors that are more reliable, i'll have a look at what i can find.
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Old Oct 11th, 2018, 11:25   #118
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I always support David's advice.
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Old Oct 18th, 2018, 11:43   #119
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Hi all, would 16.5 amp 1mm cable suffice for the rear lights? This is what I've bought for the rewiring based on the fact that the fuse for the fog lights is 15 amp.

The 7 core flexible cabling that I've bought is of significantly smaller diameyer than what is on the car, it may be that the insulation is thinner but I haven't yet compared them side by side.
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Old Oct 18th, 2018, 12:23   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomSaintJames View Post
Hi all, would 16.5 amp 1mm cable suffice for the rear lights? This is what I've bought for the rewiring based on the fact that the fuse for the fog lights is 15 amp.

The 7 core flexible cabling that I've bought is of significantly smaller diameyer than what is on the car, it may be that the insulation is thinner but I haven't yet compared them side by side.
Yes.

Bear in mind though, if you're using any crimp terminals, you'll need to make sure they're suitable for cable that small. The red ones should be ok (i'm guessing you haven't got "W" crimps yet?)



but give each connection the "tug test" after making it - pull on the wire and the crimp to make sure the crimp won't pull off in service.

If you're joing several wires using but splices, stagger the connections so you don't end up with a big bunch of butt splices that are impossible to feed through holes and will make an ugly lump once the new loom is taped up. Much better to have a tiny lump every inch or two than a big lump of 7 or more to try and tape round.

As for the new 7-core cable being significantly smaller, it's not just the insulation, it's the conductors as well. It's fine for stuff that isn't going to move very much during its lifetime but no good for using on a trailer because the plug end moves a lot. It just doesn't have the flexibility like the bigger version. Should be fine for wiring what you're doing as long as you're not using it to get into the tailgate from the car.
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