Car not right after an accident...

[CJE123]

Hi all, wonder if anyone has any thoughts on this issue I'm having. I've muddled my head googling, and with limited technical know how - I'm confused.

I have an S40 D4 R-Design. Back in January, a loony tried overtaking me, clipped my rear sending me into a spin, caused in total £9k of damage to the car. Rear and right side doors + wheels needed replacing.

Just as the car came to a halt, the left front wheel hit the kerb - with enough force to cause the alloy to buckle slightly.

The car has now been "repaired", but I have a problem...

The car is 100% - except for the steering.

I've been back to the repair garage (not a volvo main dealer, my insurer had choice of repair locations) two times with my problem, and they've "geo" checked it, alignment etc. They say everything is ok. But it's not.

The problem
The car now feels like it's pulling to the left much more than normal. When braking, the steering judders, and pulls to the left. The steering does not judder when going in a straight line, so it isn't wheel balance. When turning the wheel, or making small correction at speeds of above 35mph, the steering wheel feels like it's "kicking" slightly.

I don't know if this makes any sense, but it seems a lot more pronounced when cornering downhill. If I corner on an uphill slope, it is much less pronounced. Going downhill and braking from speed is actually quite scary now. There's quite a bit of squeaking coming from the left wheel too when braking on a downhill corner...

There is also much more tyre noise than there used to be.. And, when turning left at low speed, there is a mechanical grinding squeak/grind noise. Like metal that isn't greased?

The guys at the "repair" shop says everything is running straight and true, and that it could be a brake caliper or rotor issue. He said something about brake runoff?? (i.e. nothing to do with the accident, so sod off and leave us alone...). - But could a warped disc/rotor cause the juddering when turning the wheel?

After much googling, it seems that it can be a range of issues, tie rod end, worn bushes. But I am finding it hard to piece together the symptoms I'm having, with possible culprits. The accident also makes things harder.

Don't know if any of this makes any sense to someone. But my next stop is to a Volvo Main Dealer to see if they can sort it out. I'm just asking to see if I should be pointing the main dealers to specific causes, or let them take it for a spin. What I don't want is them wasting a day driving it around, and not finding much wrong, or costing me much pounds to trace and solve.

Thanks.

[andy_d]

If you take it to the main dealer, describe the symptoms to them as you have here,
the pulling to the left , grinding, kicking and being worse downhill left handers,etc the lot, give them As much info as to What and how and when you find / feel / hear the problem and let them find out what it is

as the accident meant the left front had a hit , sufficient to bend the alloy,, the logical starting point is the alignment of the left front wheel, the struts the shocks , the stub axel,, Everything from the left front corner Other than the brand new alloy,,
it IS a brand new one isnt it?,, not a warped/bent one they Told you was new,,,,

DO tell your insurance co that the car ISNT right, and the repair center have said "tough"...
Do tell your insurance co that you are NOT happy/satisfied with the repairs and the car Still isnt right,,

n good luck

[The Hooded Claw]

I'm going to tell you a short story here....

Many Years ago I bought Marie a Pug 307 XS Turbo ... after 2 weeks of ownership (& driving it) Marie felt confident enough to drive over to South Shore Tesco (Blackpool)

The direct route takes you out into the rural parts of the Fylde, Singleton & Weeton Villages) she did her shopping & set off back home , on reaching Singleton Village the local Farmer was bringing his cows in for Milking so Marie stopped the car turned off the engine & applied the handbrake.

about 5 minutes later a TWO TON COW jumped on the bonnet!!!! Funny bit here she rang me & said "I've bin hit by a COW" to which I replied .. "What was it driving & did you get its Reg number" .. (which was met with STONEY SILENCE & a GROWL stating "I'm being F**@Kin SERIOUS HERE"..

But I digress, eventually the farmers Ins paid up & the car was duly repaired but it was NEVER THE SAME .. It "wandered" about the road, it pulled way over to the right & it didn't "FEEL" right ... I took it back to the repairers who examined it & said .. "umph its OK" ..

after several visits I got in touch with the AA & they suggested I get an "Appraisal" done.. (same thing you "buy" when buying a "new" car ect) ..

The AA guy didn't take long to say "DO NOT DRIVE THIS ITS LETHAL" .. The Chassis was bent like a banana ...... NO ONE had Checked it for damage & only repaired the things that "LOOKED BROKE" ....

Finally I had it into Pug Main Agents & they sorted it all out .. but it STILL "Felt" Wrong ( i suppose it was "knowing" its "history" ect) ... we traded it soon after fer a MGZR

My point here is .. Ring the AA & explain the situation they will be more than happy to check EVERYTHING out (as an INDEPENDENT) you can then take it up with yer Ins Guys & the Company that did the "Repairs" on it


Keith

[Welton]

The trouble with car repairs these days is that it is too competitive and the skills needed to do the repairs are reducing.

The repair lads are 'fitters' replacing damaged panels like for like, coat of paint, and on your way.....

I heard from a repair shop that Insurance companies even enforce a 'max price per car' to their 'approved agents' so the whole thing becomes a financial juggling act - some repairs make money, some lose a lot........

From what CJE123 said it sounds like a problem with the Wishbone(s) - the car will feel light and unconnected at the front, wonder about a bit and judder under breaking.

The problem should be brought to the attention of the insurers I think.

Did they refit any of the tyres that were on the car before the accident? maybe you've got a dodgy tyre which is out of shape?

[jigharha]

Originally Posted by Welton

The trouble with car repairs these days is that it is too competitive and the skills needed to do the repairs are reducing.

The repair lads are 'fitters' replacing damaged panels like for like, coat of paint, and on your way.....

I heard from a repair shop that Insurance companies even enforce a 'max price per car' to their 'approved agents' so the whole thing becomes a financial juggling act - some repairs make money, some lose a lot........

From what CJE123 said it sounds like a problem with the Wishbone(s) - the car will feel light and unconnected at the front, wonder about a bit and judder under breaking.

The problem should be brought to the attention of the insurers I think.

Did they refit any of the tyres that were on the car before the accident? maybe you've got a dodgy tyre which is out of shape?

Whatever you want to do you must complain to your insurer for them to advice you or sanction your next move. If AA or the dealer (expert) confirms that all the problems were not solved by the accident repairer, then it will still be covered by the insurance policy fro full restoration.

Pls. let the insurer be on the vangaurd of everything.

[SonyVaio]

The kicking described sounds more like the steering rack having been damaged and in need of being replaced. It would also account for the other problems too.

Good advice above - indipendant inspection ((AA or Volvo)) and tell Ins Co that your NOT happy and the repair is unacceptable.

[CJE123]

Thanks for the thoughts.

Well, the original tires are still on the two front wheels. The two rear tyres were blown out after the accident, but I think they're the same ones, but "repaired". I know this because I had 2 conti sport contact 2 at the rear, and 2 conti sport contact 5 at the front, and same same after repair. Also lot of tyre noise....

Front left alloy is apparently brand new. They re-used same front tyres, but surely, even if the tyres were wonky, then they should've worn themselves out by now? Since getting the car back, I've driven a 1k miles...


Taking your comments aboard, I think this is the best plan of action:

Tell insurance company that the repair ain't right. Describe problems to them. Tell them that I've been back to the repairer twice, and that they don't think that anything's wrong with the car.

I'll take the car to a volvo main dealer, describe symptoms to them, give them the background, ask them to investigate. Probably will cost me a bit, but I don't mind if they can find the problem. Email/relay their report to the insurers and see what they say.

My Volvo Main dealers are usually pretty good, so should be able to find the prob.

Is this the best plan of action you think??

[SonyVaio]

Originally Posted by CJE123

Taking your comments aboard, I think this is the best plan of action:

Tell insurance company that the repair ain't right. Describe problems to them. Tell them that I've been back to the repairer twice, and that they don't think that anything's wrong with the car.

I'll take the car to a volvo main dealer, describe symptoms to them, give them the background, ask them to investigate. Probably will cost me a bit, but I don't mind if they can find the problem. Email/relay their report to the insurers and see what they say.

My Volvo Main dealers are usually pretty good, so should be able to find the prob.

Is this the best plan of action you think??

Call Ins Co as you say, then ask them for authorisation to have the car checked out at Volvo/AA at their expense. Stress the fact that you have been back to the repair center but just get fobbed off but insist there is definitely something wrong and your really not happy with the way it is driving.

The Ins Co may fob you off too saying that it would have to be at your own expense. If they do this ask them to make a note on the system (as a record) that you are not happy with the repair (listing reasons why). Then ask them if you pay for an inspection and there is something that is attributable to the accident will they then foot the cost of both the diagnosis and subsequent repairs? Also stress that if there is something wrong you wouldn't accepty the car going back to the same repair center that has already fobbed you off on several occasions.

I've been fotunate enough in the past after a shoddy repair to have had my car authorised to go into a main dealer and then cue the extra £1700 bill the Ins Co paid out.

Both repairers and Ins Co will do bare minimum to get a job done and like what has been said by others it is all money driven. Ins Co's now will even use 'salvage' parts to fix vehicles - no more is it 'New for Old'. Read your policy carefully too, as most Ins Co's will state if the car is more than 3 years old they can use pattern parts (non genuine) to do repairs. This in itself can have problems with bits not fitting 100%. A bit of a kick in the teeth when it's not your fault.

Hope you get it sorted.