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2003 v70 d5 bad start

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Old Dec 10th, 2018, 12:46   #1
Max HEADVROOM
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Default 2003 v70 d5 bad start

anyone know whats causing this??.. vids only short but il post a longer one later

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRvO7q2Sxwo
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Old Dec 10th, 2018, 14:39   #2
MarvinMitt
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Weak battery or problem with getting the fuel pressure up?
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2002 V70 D5
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Old Dec 10th, 2018, 15:13   #3
CaptainSlow337
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I had the same issue a while back, fixed by replacing fuel filter.
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Old Dec 10th, 2018, 17:40   #4
Max HEADVROOM
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ok.. batteries 3 months old... fuel filter was replaced 3 weeks back and iv just run some diesel purge through it.

Al.
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Old Dec 10th, 2018, 17:52   #5
Brendan W
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If it's not filter and not battery then the next on the list is insufficient cranking speed.
This could be a simple as a bad earth strap back from the block ( they tend to go just at the lug under the starter) or a lazy starter motor. A jump lead bypassing the earth strap might show it up provided the lead gets good contacts.
Have you any class of a reader that would show cranking speed?
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Old Dec 10th, 2018, 21:02   #6
Max HEADVROOM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan W View Post
If it's not filter and not battery then the next on the list is insufficient cranking speed.
This could be a simple as a bad earth strap back from the block ( they tend to go just at the lug under the starter) or a lazy starter motor. A jump lead bypassing the earth strap might show it up provided the lead gets good contacts.
Have you any class of a reader that would show cranking speed?
it cranks over like buggery!.. its like its trying to start but only firing on one pot for a second or two, then it fires up.

il get a better video in the morning when its at its worst
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Old Dec 10th, 2018, 21:46   #7
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More or less, the battery's only real job is to power the starter motor.
The starter motor's only job in the world is to crank the engine at the required speed. I haven't got the instrumentation to prove it from your video, but it certainly sounds like both are making a fair crack of things and your problem probably lies outside of those two.

At 5°C, the glow plugs should be lighting up. The glow plugs only do one thing, but they do have sort of two jobs to do. Firstly, they give an incandescent surface to light the fuel in an environment where the metal of the cylinder walls and head could be at very low temperatures, therefore allowing the engine to start. For sure, cranking of the engine will warm things up, but not terribly quickly; the indicator that a glow plug is not all it could be is a long cranking period as the compression of gas process (how a compression ignition engine works after all) warms things up.
The second thing they do is continue to provide an environment for stable combustion after the engine has started. This only works for a short time as it's hardly effective to use a short length of very thick wire (for that's what a glow plug is more or less) when there's a gert big fire going on inside the cylinder, but for a short period, it works well at reducing nasty by-products of incomplete combustion.

So I would first look for issues with the glow plug and their actuation. SiRobb has videos far more descriptive than ever I can be here and they're well worth a view. VIDA may also report issues and really should always be your first port of call, not least because it's nice and clean and less exposed than leaning under the bonnet in December.

If all there is fine, then the next thing to consider is how the injectors work:- the common rail is brought up to a pressure by the high pressure pump during cranking. Then the injection time and duration is calculated and then an injector opened. If one of the injectors is letting by, it will drop the pressure in the rail and the cue to open the injector may never come because the rail pressure is always too low. The engine will crank until the battery's flat (or you've fried the earth connection, whichever happens first) but it won't start.

If the injector is borderline, it'll crank for a while, and if the rail pressure happens to creep over the threshold, suddenly the engine will start. It might well run mostly fine after that as the cranking speed is 200-400 rpm and idle speed is well over double that and hence the high pressure pump can now keep the pressure up.
Again SiRobb has excellent videos on how you measure how much fluid leaks past the injectors, but you do need a running engine to test this.

There's several dozen other things that can cause issues, but work methodically and don't just change things randomly, and you'll quickly get to the root of the problem. All of what I've mention above can be tested without disconnecting anything (except the leak-off pipes) if you have VIDA and a voltmeter. No need for sporadic changes that might introduce as many problems as you find.
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Old Dec 11th, 2018, 10:06   #8
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the glowplugs got replaced last month as i had two that were dead and i cant believe i went out this morning to record it and it turned over almost instantly ffs..

il try again tomorrow

Al.
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Old Dec 11th, 2018, 15:04   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max HEADVROOM View Post
the glowplugs got replaced last month as i had two that were dead and i cant believe i went out this morning to record it and it turned over almost instantly ffs..

il try again tomorrow

Al.
Inconsistent issues are of course the devil's occupation when it comes to solving them...
Temperature can be critical on some things so recording when it's good compared to when it's bad will certainly help. What does VIDA say?
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Old Dec 11th, 2018, 18:24   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max HEADVROOM View Post
the glowplugs got replaced last month as i had two that were dead and i cant believe i went out this morning to record it and it turned over almost instantly ffs..

il try again tomorrow

Al.
At times you would almost believe that the car was taking the p!ss.
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