Engine: D5: - V70 very inter power loss cured !! - Page 12

DanielHoward · Apr 7th, 2012, 20:51

I have had this Volvo S60 D5 for three years now. Recently, there was some strange set of noises in the cabin when I accelerated like the engine no longer singed or was noisier. I filled the tank with good diesel from BP (the more expensive diesel) and put Redex. Did this twice. I put some additive into the oil that reduces noise (maybe that was unwise but perhaps unrelated). After two weeks one fateful day one week ago the engine sounded great, the noise had gone, and it had very good acceleration as usual. I was happy. Next day I got in the car and started driving. Suddenly it drove like a 1 litre car not a 2.4 litre car!!! it had no power particularly uphill and coincidentally or not a message appeared "Engine Service Required". Over the next two days the problem remained but it was more or less manifest. In one instance I was going uphill and felt as though the guy behind would blow the horn for I could not accelerate. In all cases the revs go up but the acceleration is not there. During those two days I took it to one garage to read the code (a "friend"). He charged me 20 pounds although the young kid who worked for him saw no associated error code. Today I went to another mechanic friend who is more experienced. I brought a fuel filter to him (for I heard this may be a reason). He changed it. We checked the hoses to the turbo and revved the car and they had pressure in them so we realized the turbo was right. We checked everywhere for leaks and found none. However, we did hear a strange noise from the stepper motor, something unusual. I took the car for a long spin. The engine sounded much better with the new fuel filter. However, the problem with power remained. Say on a motorway it took a long time to reach 70 mph and uphill or downhill even slightly on roads makes a big difference to the car. You get the impression you are not pressing the accelerator but you are flooring it but the speed wont pick up. My friend thinks it is the throttle housing area, something sending the wrong air or something to the engine. Moreover another friend thinks it may have to do with particulate filters but I don't know. Also this mechanic who changed the fuel filter tried with his limited OBD and was able to reset the message of normal service required (that message was showing also) but not the "Engine Service Required" message, he could not turn it off nor could he read the code, there was no associated error code to point to the fault. On Tuesday I am going to a Bosch Service Centre for they have more powerful diagnostic computers. If that fails I will go to the dealer to try to get the diagnostics. Does anyone have any theory as to where might the fault lie?

volvos60d · May 2nd, 2012, 00:43

Just re-uploaded photos from hobbyhorse due to photobucket which is no longer host them.
P.S. Maybe Mod can insert them in the original message.

Rebrabuk · Jul 15th, 2012, 14:10

Thanks for the initial guide and idea of replacing this pipe. I've just replaced mine on my D5 in a bid to cure my power problems.

Having removed my old pipe, it was only slightly softer than the new pipe. But since i had the new pipe available and i'd gotten the old one off, i thought i might as well swap it out anyway.

I'm not very impressed with the manufacturing quality of the new pipe though. A few of the edges were pretty roughly moulded, not what i expected for a genuine Volvo part costing over £50!

In order to get the crankcase breather out of the old pipe, i was forced to cut the pipe, there was no way it was coming out otherwise.

Similarly, there was no way that it was fitting into the new pipe, without some minor modification using the Dremel, as per the original post in this thread!

Sadly, this has not cured my problem, so a bit of a wasted morning for me..

LJD · Jul 15th, 2012, 16:37

Amazing guide !

Mine feels very soft to. But its not easy to get hands to !!
I did note that the breather hose where it meets the turbo pipe has a lot of oil crud around that join.

S60-MBS · Jul 16th, 2012, 02:11

Heres ebay link to a cheaper option for the pipe

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRESH-AIR-...item416820e1cf

Rebrabuk · Jul 16th, 2012, 08:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by S60-MBS

Heres ebay link to a cheaper option for the pipe

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRESH-AIR-...item416820e1cf

I saw that a few weeks ago but it's from Poland so i thought it would be cheap aftermarket rubbish.

However, having bought the genuine Volvo part, i'd be surprised if that cheaper option is not of better quality anyway.

pont · Aug 11th, 2012, 09:03

Gentlemen,
Can anyone give me some helpful advice?

My 2007 v70 2.4 d 110k miler suddenly lost power and hisses. I am not sure if it is a blowing or sucking hiss, but if you rev it at standstill, there is a hiss at about 1800 revs. No error messages.
If you drive it, it starts to go, until about 1800 revs, then reduces pwer, then repeats the cycle, so go along in a series of surges, it is impossible to drive like this. After readaing this great thread, I am starting to think that I have a split in the intake hose leading to the turbo, and as the turbo spins up I get no boost and the hiss. probably split near one of the jubilees, but I cannot see the split .
Do you agree?
Can some kind soul explain about the intercooler pipes, because I see them mentioned in this thread, but surely they are to do with water?
There is mention of a pipe under the sump, but again this has to do with water, surely?
Oil level is constant, no smoke, no coolant loss.
Many thanks in advance. (I have a seriously knackered back and that does not help my efforts to look down the back of the engine.

Yooj · Aug 11th, 2012, 13:56

I had a similar sort of issue, though it could be just a concidence, where upon acceleration it would be very, very sluggish, and then around 2500 rpm it would accerate in a series of surges up to around 3000 rpm and then pick up pretty well. I do get a type of turbo over-boost sort of hiss/whoosh also.

There are a number of things which I think could cause the issue, but I also had a few other issues to tackle, namely change the ATF and fault-find some electrical things.

After the ATF change, I decided to reset the car's computers for the electrical issues by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes.

However, the long of short of this answer, is that I no longer get the pulsed acceleration, and I do not know whether this is because of the battery-reset or the ATF change.

Therefore, in conclusion, rather than chasing lots of other things first, I would suggest that you do a computer reset by battery disconnection, as this will cause the car to re-learn for driving styles etc, and it 'could' help with your issue. Plus it costs nothing but a little time to do.

The process for the disconnecton is:

1/ Turn off ignition, and remove key
2/ Leave car for 10 minutes to allow computers to shut-down completely
3/ Remove negative lead connected to battery
4/ Leave car for at least 20 minutes
5/ Insert key in ignition and turn to position 2 (II)
6/ Reconnect negative lead on battery (be prepared for a spark)
7/ Go for a drive (nothing too mental)

Yooj

fogster · Jul 4th, 2013, 14:41

It seems the photos have gone (again!). I put the attached guide (PDF) together for a friend - hopefully will help show where the hose is.

All the photos are mine apart from the last (of the split hose); I managed to nab this from Google's image cache as the original seems to have disappeared from the web!

Hope this is of help and apologies if I'm duplicating something posted elsewhere on this site.

SteveOC · Jul 6th, 2013, 00:09

Looking at this myself - just as well I saw this as the faulty hose is not the one I thought.

Steve O.

Apr 7th, 2012, 20:51	#111
DanielHoward New Member Last Online: Jul 24th, 2015 23:51 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newcastle	Engine Service Required Msg Loss of Power S60 D5 Diesel I have had this Volvo S60 D5 for three years now. Recently, there was some strange set of noises in the cabin when I accelerated like the engine no longer singed or was noisier. I filled the tank with good diesel from BP (the more expensive diesel) and put Redex. Did this twice. I put some additive into the oil that reduces noise (maybe that was unwise but perhaps unrelated). After two weeks one fateful day one week ago the engine sounded great, the noise had gone, and it had very good acceleration as usual. I was happy. Next day I got in the car and started driving. Suddenly it drove like a 1 litre car not a 2.4 litre car!!! it had no power particularly uphill and coincidentally or not a message appeared "Engine Service Required". Over the next two days the problem remained but it was more or less manifest. In one instance I was going uphill and felt as though the guy behind would blow the horn for I could not accelerate. In all cases the revs go up but the acceleration is not there. During those two days I took it to one garage to read the code (a "friend"). He charged me 20 pounds although the young kid who worked for him saw no associated error code. Today I went to another mechanic friend who is more experienced. I brought a fuel filter to him (for I heard this may be a reason). He changed it. We checked the hoses to the turbo and revved the car and they had pressure in them so we realized the turbo was right. We checked everywhere for leaks and found none. However, we did hear a strange noise from the stepper motor, something unusual. I took the car for a long spin. The engine sounded much better with the new fuel filter. However, the problem with power remained. Say on a motorway it took a long time to reach 70 mph and uphill or downhill even slightly on roads makes a big difference to the car. You get the impression you are not pressing the accelerator but you are flooring it but the speed wont pick up. My friend thinks it is the throttle housing area, something sending the wrong air or something to the engine. Moreover another friend thinks it may have to do with particulate filters but I don't know. Also this mechanic who changed the fuel filter tried with his limited OBD and was able to reset the message of normal service required (that message was showing also) but not the "Engine Service Required" message, he could not turn it off nor could he read the code, there was no associated error code to point to the fault. On Tuesday I am going to a Bosch Service Centre for they have more powerful diagnostic computers. If that fails I will go to the dealer to try to get the diagnostics. Does anyone have any theory as to where might the fault lie?

Jul 16th, 2012, 02:11	#115
S60-MBS VOC Member Last Online: Jun 7th, 2020 11:28 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ???????????????? View Photos By: S60-MBS	Heres ebay link to a cheaper option for the pipe http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRESH-AIR-...item416820e1cf __________________

Aug 11th, 2012, 09:03	#117
pont Member Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 13:39 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: worcester	v70 power loss and loud hissing Gentlemen, Can anyone give me some helpful advice? My 2007 v70 2.4 d 110k miler suddenly lost power and hisses. I am not sure if it is a blowing or sucking hiss, but if you rev it at standstill, there is a hiss at about 1800 revs. No error messages. If you drive it, it starts to go, until about 1800 revs, then reduces pwer, then repeats the cycle, so go along in a series of surges, it is impossible to drive like this. After readaing this great thread, I am starting to think that I have a split in the intake hose leading to the turbo, and as the turbo spins up I get no boost and the hiss. probably split near one of the jubilees, but I cannot see the split . Do you agree? Can some kind soul explain about the intercooler pipes, because I see them mentioned in this thread, but surely they are to do with water? There is mention of a pipe under the sump, but again this has to do with water, surely? Oil level is constant, no smoke, no coolant loss. Many thanks in advance. (I have a seriously knackered back and that does not help my efforts to look down the back of the engine. Last edited by pont; Aug 11th, 2012 at 09:04. Reason: spling

Jul 15th, 2012, 14:10	#113
Rebrabuk Member Last Online: May 18th, 2016 11:48 Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Newcastle	Thanks for the initial guide and idea of replacing this pipe. I've just replaced mine on my D5 in a bid to cure my power problems. Having removed my old pipe, it was only slightly softer than the new pipe. But since i had the new pipe available and i'd gotten the old one off, i thought i might as well swap it out anyway. I'm not very impressed with the manufacturing quality of the new pipe though. A few of the edges were pretty roughly moulded, not what i expected for a genuine Volvo part costing over £50! In order to get the crankcase breather out of the old pipe, i was forced to cut the pipe, there was no way it was coming out otherwise. Similarly, there was no way that it was fitting into the new pipe, without some minor modification using the Dremel, as per the original post in this thread! Sadly, this has not cured my problem, so a bit of a wasted morning for me..

Jul 15th, 2012, 16:37	#114
LJD I've Been Banned Last Online: Oct 22nd, 2021 18:48 Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: london	Amazing guide ! Mine feels very soft to. But its not easy to get hands to !! I did note that the breather hose where it meets the turbo pipe has a lot of oil crud around that join.

Aug 11th, 2012, 13:56	#118
Yooj Junior Member Last Online: Oct 20th, 2022 11:44 Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Bedford	I had a similar sort of issue, though it could be just a concidence, where upon acceleration it would be very, very sluggish, and then around 2500 rpm it would accerate in a series of surges up to around 3000 rpm and then pick up pretty well. I do get a type of turbo over-boost sort of hiss/whoosh also. There are a number of things which I think could cause the issue, but I also had a few other issues to tackle, namely change the ATF and fault-find some electrical things. After the ATF change, I decided to reset the car's computers for the electrical issues by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes. However, the long of short of this answer, is that I no longer get the pulsed acceleration, and I do not know whether this is because of the battery-reset or the ATF change. Therefore, in conclusion, rather than chasing lots of other things first, I would suggest that you do a computer reset by battery disconnection, as this will cause the car to re-learn for driving styles etc, and it 'could' help with your issue. Plus it costs nothing but a little time to do. The process for the disconnecton is: 1/ Turn off ignition, and remove key 2/ Leave car for 10 minutes to allow computers to shut-down completely 3/ Remove negative lead connected to battery 4/ Leave car for at least 20 minutes 5/ Insert key in ignition and turn to position 2 (II) 6/ Reconnect negative lead on battery (be prepared for a spark) 7/ Go for a drive (nothing too mental) Yooj

Jul 6th, 2013, 00:09	#120
SteveOC Junior Member Last Online: Sep 1st, 2023 17:32 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Trowbridge	Looking at this myself - just as well I saw this as the faulty hose is not the one I thought. Steve O.

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