PV - Stud removal

arcturus · Mar 19th, 2018, 11:31

Hi Will be replacing the front pipe and box on my B16 544 soon. I was thinking about replacing the manifold /studs at the same time. Will I be on a hiding to nothing trying to remove the old studs after all this time?

old fart · Mar 19th, 2018, 12:21

You'll be lucky if they come out of the manifold, more likely to shear off, leaving you to drill the remains out. I'd leave them alone if the nuts come off ok and the threads are alright.

Faust · Mar 19th, 2018, 12:51

When I changed the manifold on my B20 lump a while back, I was amazed that not a single stud/nut broke or gave me hassle! Then again, before I had my Amazon, I’d only owned Fords. Make of that what you will…

Echoing OF: as long as the studs are in good condition, I’d leave them well alone - just get some new manifold nuts.

If you do want to change them, use plenty of decent penetrative oil (I use Duck Oil – NOT wd40 as this is not a 'real' penetrative oil), a lot of heat and a good quality stud extractor.

The 2 nut method might work, but those studs will be pretty old and I wouldn’t risk it.

MatteoB · Mar 19th, 2018, 13:56

One point to consider: if you're doing this while the engine is in the car, you're adding another layer of frustration to the process.

As others stated: they don't break too often, they're certainly not impossible to extract if they break but it's a nuisance. I've done it on engine stands, I'm not sure I'd want to do that with the engine inside the car.

Army · Mar 19th, 2018, 15:10

Wire brush the threads once the exhaust pipe has been removed. If you see that the threads are tapered (due to rust) then I see little point in sticking your head in the sand...

...I´ve just removed the studs from my B20 exhaust manifold expecting the worst and they came out just fine.

I used a bit of penetrating oil (good stuff - Kroon - which is hard to find outside of the Benelux countries) but I have the feeling it wasn´t necessary. I was expecting to have to heat the manifold and then squirt penetrating oil and all that jazz but it was pain free.

I do have one of these chuck style extractors =>

Best type I´ve stumbled upon so far

arcturus · Mar 19th, 2018, 17:28

Thanks. Do you think that you could reduce the size of your files? They seem to be rather large.

Army · Mar 21st, 2018, 10:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by arcturus

Thanks. Do you think that you could reduce the size of your files? They seem to be rather large.

It is an imagine I half inched from an internet search - I have no control of its size - next time I will try and find a smaller one

simon roberts · Mar 21st, 2018, 23:07

Just fine for the visually challenged.......😎

Mar 19th, 2018, 15:10	#5
Army marches on his stomach Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 03:15 Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands	Wire brush the threads once the exhaust pipe has been removed. If you see that the threads are tapered (due to rust) then I see little point in sticking your head in the sand... ...I´ve just removed the studs from my B20 exhaust manifold expecting the worst and they came out just fine. I used a bit of penetrating oil (good stuff - Kroon - which is hard to find outside of the Benelux countries) but I have the feeling it wasn´t necessary. I was expecting to have to heat the manifold and then squirt penetrating oil and all that jazz but it was pain free. I do have one of these chuck style extractors => Best type I´ve stumbled upon so far __________________ 1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works!

Mar 19th, 2018, 17:28	#6
arcturus arcturus Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Sagres Portugal	Thanks. Do you think that you could reduce the size of your files? They seem to be rather large. __________________ life's too short to drink bad wine

Mar 19th, 2018, 12:21	#2
old fart Master Member Last Online: Mar 28th, 2024 14:15 Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Droitwich	You'll be lucky if they come out of the manifold, more likely to shear off, leaving you to drill the remains out. I'd leave them alone if the nuts come off ok and the threads are alright.

Mar 19th, 2018, 12:51	#3
Faust Master Member Last Online: Today 00:34 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Nottingham	When I changed the manifold on my B20 lump a while back, I was amazed that not a single stud/nut broke or gave me hassle! Then again, before I had my Amazon, I’d only owned Fords. Make of that what you will… Echoing OF: as long as the studs are in good condition, I’d leave them well alone - just get some new manifold nuts. If you do want to change them, use plenty of decent penetrative oil (I use Duck Oil – NOT wd40 as this is not a 'real' penetrative oil), a lot of heat and a good quality stud extractor. The 2 nut method might work, but those studs will be pretty old and I wouldn’t risk it.

Mar 19th, 2018, 13:56	#4
MatteoB New Member Last Online: Feb 9th, 2021 03:22 Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Arizona	One point to consider: if you're doing this while the engine is in the car, you're adding another layer of frustration to the process. As others stated: they don't break too often, they're certainly not impossible to extract if they break but it's a nuisance. I've done it on engine stands, I'm not sure I'd want to do that with the engine inside the car.

Mar 21st, 2018, 23:07	#8
simon roberts Member Last Online: Feb 13th, 2022 14:10 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: paddock wood	Just fine for the visually challenged.......😎

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