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Intermittent fault on 940 2.0 turbo 1992

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Old Aug 18th, 2019, 16:13   #11
Laird Scooby
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Most of what you say is right Louise but your post does highlight something obvious which i was planning on asking if/when the OP responds to my question about the Temp gauge and that is, what exactly is the problem?

All we know is that he has read the codes (which could possibly be old codes and not even relevant!) and diagnosed a CTS and MAF problem.

If the thermostat has gone weak and the Temp gauge is barely moving or only gets 1/4 of the way up the gauge, this could give rise to the ECU generating those faults.

I'm not saying this will happen in every case or indeed that is the case here, just that it's possible.
For example, i'm currently helping a member of another forum with a hunting idle and ABS problem on his car. It turned out this morning the alternator/no charge/ignition warning light is on while the engine is running. On the systems on the car in question, that alone will cause both the ABS warning light to come on and the EFi ECU to makfunction givng at the very least, a bad idle.

The point of this waffle is that if even the smallest detail is left out originally, it can throw the whoel diagnostic process completely out.

Also for future reference, the socket on the ignition amplifier module should face downwards so the plug fits onto it from underneath. If yours doesn't, it would be a good idea to remove and refit so it does, cleaning and renewing the heatsink compound at the same time. Use a solvent cleaner, nothing abrasive to clean the heatsink comopund from the back of the module and also the heatsink it fits onto.
Smear some heatsink compound onto the back of the module on the mating face, offer the module up to the heatsink, moving it around to distribute the compuound evenly then fit the screws.

This will help keep the module cool, prolonging its life
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Old Aug 18th, 2019, 18:37   #12
nigellazypostman
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Apologies for the delay in getting back with an answer to your questions the car isn't at home so i have to travel to it to do any testing which is not ideal.

In answer to the question after a five minute run the temperature gauge sits in the middle .........thats when it starts of course.

This afternoon though the intermittent fault appears to have become permanent as the car will not start at all. I called in a good friend of mine who is a competent mechanic and we have worked through the ignition system which has a nice fat healthy spark to the plugs however we noticed that the spark plugs were dry as a bone even after extensive cranking of the engine.

To see if it was fuel related we tried a squirt of easy start and the car sprung into life until the easy start was used up. He checked the fuel rail pressure which seems healthy so he then clipped a noid light into one of the injectors electrical sockets and it looks like the injectors are not firing?
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Old Aug 18th, 2019, 21:27   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nigellazypostman View Post
Apologies for the delay in getting back with an answer to your questions the car isn't at home so i have to travel to it to do any testing which is not ideal.

In answer to the question after a five minute run the temperature gauge sits in the middle .........thats when it starts of course.

This afternoon though the intermittent fault appears to have become permanent as the car will not start at all. I called in a good friend of mine who is a competent mechanic and we have worked through the ignition system which has a nice fat healthy spark to the plugs however we noticed that the spark plugs were dry as a bone even after extensive cranking of the engine.

To see if it was fuel related we tried a squirt of easy start and the car sprung into life until the easy start was used up. He checked the fuel rail pressure which seems healthy so he then clipped a noid light into one of the injectors electrical sockets and it looks like the injectors are not firing?
RSR. Radio Suppression Relay.

Depending on your model, it's either mounted on the expansion tank or the inner wing. The good news is, if you have an electric cooling fan (usually because you have air con but sometimes fitted anyway) the relays are the same, making fault tracing easier. Simply unplug the RSR and the cooling fan relay and plug the cooling fan relay onto the RSR lead/socket.
If it then starts, that's the problem.

New relays are NLA, you can either hunt for a secondhand one on fleabay or buy a new, standard 4-pin relay socket with "W" crimps included and a 4-pin 40A relay and rewire it.

If you don't have the "spare" relay, unplug the RSR and fit a heavy piece of cable in the two heavy connections (one end in each connection) and use that to test it.
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Old Aug 18th, 2019, 22:56   #14
nigellazypostman
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Right have been and had a look and found this relay (see picture) on the passengers inner wing near the suspension turret which i am presuming is the correct one (4 connectors 2 large 2 small). I prised the cover off and it does appear to activate when the ignition is applied but will try bridging it out tomorrow when i get back from work, sadly this car doesn't have air con or an electric cooling fan and just has a viscous fan, guess thats because its only the 2.0 and not a 2.3?
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Old Aug 18th, 2019, 23:12   #15
Laird Scooby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nigellazypostman View Post
Right have been and had a look and found this relay (see picture) on the passengers inner wing near the suspension turret which i am presuming is the correct one (4 connectors 2 large 2 small). I prised the cover off and it does appear to activate when the ignition is applied but will try bridging it out tomorrow when i get back from work, sadly this car doesn't have air con or an electric cooling fan and just has a viscous fan, guess thats because its only the 2.0 and not a 2.3?
Looks like the one, can only see half the wires to it though. If you look at Pg 28 (by Document Viewer page counter) of the pdf i linked to earlier at item 2/23 and the wire colours on it, you'll be able to check for sure. Alternatively you could just link the two heavy connections and see if it starts.
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Old Aug 18th, 2019, 23:18   #16
nigellazypostman
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Dave really appreciate your help! I will give it a go tomorrow its a pain the cars not here as I want to go and try it now
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Old Aug 18th, 2019, 23:36   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nigellazypostman View Post
Dave really appreciate your help! I will give it a go tomorrow its a pain the cars not here as I want to go and try it now
You're welcome. If it does turn out to be the RSR, here are the parts to convert/update it :

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co....80/category/37

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co....69/category/36

First is a flying relay socket with "W" crimps, second is a 40A 4-pin standard relay with a clip-in mounting lug that should give a mounting hole the same size as the original or if yours is clipped onto bodywork, i would think you'd be able to find somewhere to bolt it to.

Meanwhile if the piece of tester wire works to get it started, you should be able to get it home but don't forget to remove the wire when you switch off.

Once the fault is confirmed (or not as the case may be!) and you have repaired it, don't forget to pull fuse #1 for a couple of minutes to erase the fault codes. Give it a drive at your convenience and check for fault codes again - there shouldn't be any!
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Old Aug 19th, 2019, 12:33   #18
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This is the relay right?

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts...rcuit/1030236/
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Old Aug 19th, 2019, 12:52   #19
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Looks right but what a ridiculous price!
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Old Aug 19th, 2019, 13:09   #20
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I recently replaced my RSR. It wasn't the cause of my problem but the relay from this eBay listing is working fine:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Volvo...2/283302819779
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