Other XC90 Problem: xc90 going into limp mode & cutting out when idle

[stephenmdavies1983]

Originally Posted by Tannaton

A problem with the turbo control valve can cause it to go into limp home mode due to excessive boost pressure, but this would most likely happen whilst accelerating/under throttle. If you can avoid it going into limp home mode by driving very gently, this could be your problem. It's not too difficult to change the valve but the part is extortionately expensive for what it is. The operation of the vacuum pump and all the pipes should be checked also.

It doesn't drive at all now to be honest. It starts ok, I drive 50 metres and it cuts out . Doesn't even go into limp mode anymore. It dies, all the lights come on, and then the oil light stays on.

Starts again straight away after that.

I've checked the oil and there's plenty.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by stephenmdavies1983

So after I went for the drive the only readings showing were the voltage on ecu.

He was revving the car in park mode and it kept going into limp mode while it was parked.

I realise now he probably loves people like me. Complete amateur on these topics. He hooked a laptop up, told me there were a couple of things wrong and charged £30. Nice business model.

That's just appalling. With the garbled info he's left you with, you're no closer to solving your problem.
Get the cheap diagnostic I suggested at the start and I can talk you through getting some meaningful free data.

[stephenmdavies1983]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

That's just appalling. With the garbled info he's left you with, you're no closer to solving your problem.
Get the cheap diagnostic I suggested at the start and I can talk you through getting some meaningful free data.

Yep - it's in the post!

There's an independent used Volvo specialist around a mile away and I'm guessing that's my best bet.

I drove without the MAF for about a mile yesterday and it drove much better, but still ended up cutting out. But only once. With the MAF it's every 50-100 metres.

I'll plug the elm in tomorrow and I'll try and get some codes posted unless I manage to get it to the garage before that

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by stephenmdavies1983

Yep - it's in the post!

There's an independent used Volvo specialist around a mile away and I'm guessing that's my best bet.

I drove without the MAF for about a mile yesterday and it drove much better, but still ended up cutting out. But only once. With the MAF it's every 50-100 metres.

I'll plug the elm in tomorrow and I'll try and get some codes posted unless I manage to get it to the garage before that

You can likely solve this yourself without paying garage costs.
Live data is more important than fault codes for your issue, so you'll need to set up a screen like this within Torque.
You'll need MAF g/s data at idle and at 1,2,3 and 4k revs.

[Horton]

I'll say it again - fuel filter. Seriously, when was it last changed? Was one of the readings fuel related, like "long term fuel trim" ??

[stephenmdavies1983]

Originally Posted by Horton

I'll say it again - fuel filter. Seriously, when was it last changed? Was one of the readings fuel related, like "long term fuel trim" ??

Sorry I didn't get much info from the guy. I'll mention it tomorrow if I get it in to the garage tomorrow or I'll try and get my own reading with the obd reader

[danielm85948]

Originally Posted by stephenmdavies1983

Hi

My xc90 has started going into limp mode recently,more so when it's cold. It will do this 3 to 4 times and always sorts itself out when the engine is restarted.

After this, it will cut out completely at junctions when the car is stationary. Again, it starts fine when the engine is restarted.

I'm going to try some diesel magic to clean the injection as I guess it won't make things any worse.

Someone also suggested running the car with the MAF unplugged. If it runs ok then I need to clean / replace the MAF. If it still cuts out then I guess the MAF is fine.

Are there any downsides to running the car with the MAF unplugged. Will I lose any performance and how long can I run the car with the MAF unplugged? If this temporarily solves the problem, then I'll run like this if it's safe until I can get a replacement part sorted.

Any advice would be much appreciated

Cheers

the fact that it is a diesel means go to the fuel pump ,under it is a drain plug crack it open. do not remove it,will have a small amount of water coming out ,then close it.there should be a pump on it on the top or the side .you prime the pump till it is hard to do so .then get someone to turn your key as you prime the pump.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by danielm85948

the fact that it is a diesel means go to the fuel pump ,under it is a drain plug crack it open. do not remove it,will have a small amount of water coming out ,then close it.there should be a pump on it on the top or the side .you prime the pump till it is hard to do so .then get someone to turn your key as you prime the pump.

I wasn't aware the D5 had water drain screws on the fuel pumps.
Tell me more......
Any Pics?

[Tannaton]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

I wasn't aware the D5 had water drain screws on the fuel pumps.
Tell me more......
Any Pics?

On the early ones the water drain is on the bottom of the filter which is under the car just forward of the o/s/r wheel. On later cars they changed the filter type to a replaceable cartridge, not sure where on these but would guess it's on the filter housing, i.e. same place.

[Horton]

There are two types of filter, but yours will most likely be the paper style. Volvo part no 30792514. It's under the off side rear passenger door in a black cannister and you will need a strap wrench to undo it....Drain it first by undoing the drain tap in the bottom. It's tight, but try not to be too ham fisted, or you'll break the mounts! Once undone, just pull it out and replace but not forgetting the rubber seal included with the filter... A little dab of grease on the thread before it goes back in will help for next time. These filters don't self prime, so make sure your battery is well charged before you go to start. Turn the engine over, it will start and then die. Crank over for a bit and it will start, but it can take a minute or so of cranking before it goes, otherwise leave the ignition on for 10 minutes and come back to it.
If you haven't changed your filter in a while it will be this that's causing your issue!