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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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B230FK Timing Belt Conundrums.Views : 2898 Replies : 37Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 27th, 2018, 10:01 | #1 |
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B230FK Timing Belt Conundrums.
As per the title, I've been pleased to find timing belt kits for my 940 LPT are reasonably priced...
£35 for an INA kit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INA-Timin...0AAOSwISNbfvBa £30 for a Febi Bilstein kit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genui...4AAOSwXPNaKaK7 My friendly mechanic tells me this is a 2.5 hour job for him and at £30 an hour that would equate to £75 plus parts, however, this is a job I could and perhaps ought to do myself. The issue I've got is that having done the man maths, I'd need to pay £40ish for a crank locking tool (Volvo part 5284?) and a further £30 for a decent torque wrench for the crank pulley bolt... It actually works out the same price as paying someone else to do it and becomes counter intuitive to DIY! Am I getting this all wrong? Can I get away with applying the handbrake/chocking the wheels/putting the car in fifth gear for to lock the engine for removal and re-fitting of the crank pulley? Does the crank pulley bolt actually need specific torque values or will 'bloody tight' using my 2 foot breaker bar work ok? Thanks in advance chaps Last edited by LPTJoe; Aug 27th, 2018 at 10:07. |
Aug 27th, 2018, 10:23 | #2 |
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If you end up buying tools that you're not likely to use again in a good while then the DIY option becomes even less attractive.
Plus, if you get it done then you'll have a warranty on the parts and the work. Personally, for those sorts of numbers, I'd get it done by the garage and spend the two-and-a-half spare hours fishing! Jack |
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Aug 27th, 2018, 10:27 | #3 |
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I used to do it myself but the last time I couldn't be assed so took to main dealer.They did it while I waited and supplied the coffee and bikkies It took about an hour and about 80 pounds and at least you know its done right.
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Aug 27th, 2018, 10:31 | #4 | |
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Quote:
If both of the above suspicions are accurate (And I suspect I'm right) then I'm left thinking if they can do it without the locking tool etc then surely I can too? A new timing belt and tensioner for £35 all in is appealing |
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Aug 27th, 2018, 11:18 | #5 |
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You can do it without crank locking tools I always have. Just remove the bottom flywheel cover and use a screwdriver in the ring gear. 360s you can use a socket in the cranksensor hole, but don't do this on a 940, it will break the bracket
I would advise a torque wrench though if you can't judge it well. I tend to do my own work because the mechanics, even dealer mechanics have tended to make my/my parents car worse. Specialists and real experts are hard to come by. |
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Aug 27th, 2018, 13:38 | #6 |
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Having done a spot of digging I've found a video with an ingenious solution to locking the crank. Fast forward to 2mins 40 seconds and all becomes clear....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZBAYA_mkbs Whether or not this is better than putting the car in 5th gear and applying the handbrake I'm not sure but it clearly works. Meanwhile, If anyone actually has the proper crank tool and would be prepared to lend it to me briefly, that would be much appreciated |
Aug 27th, 2018, 13:58 | #7 |
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This is pretty crude, looks like it could damage the arb. Putting in 5th gear doesn't usually work, too much slop/springyness in the drive train, but you might be lucky. I'd go with the screw driver in the ring gear method.
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Aug 27th, 2018, 14:44 | #8 |
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It's not that difficult to change the timing belt. The only special tool is the crank pulley locking tool (Volvo part no. 9995284) which was £55 from a Volvo main dealer when I bought one last year.
I seem to remember that the Volvo timing belt kit was not expensive either.
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Aug 27th, 2018, 15:30 | #9 | |
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Quote:
There are a plethora of methods to hold the crankshaft. There is a method of cutting the lower part of the timing belt cover to avoid undoing the crankshaft bolt. But I bought the tool and it does the job so easily. If your engine has the same recommended belt change intervals as mine, you'll use the tool at least every five years. And it has a second hand value if/when you no longer need it. The Volvo belt is as cheap as inexpensive fried potatoes. And it has good marks to help alignment. I don't know about the pressure roller. But that doesn't always need changing. Actually I do the belt every four years. That times with every other coolant change. Changing the belt on my 240 is a lot easier if you remove the radiator and grille by the way, to get a good view of the various alignment marks straight in through the front of the car. And it's a good time to consider the hoses, including heater hoses, and thermostat, and drive belts. And of course those front oil seals. Things might/will vary on your car of course. I would not be brave enough to guess the tightness of the crankshaft pulley bolt. A reasonable torque wrench need not cost much. My trusted old Faithful brand wrench covers a good range, all I have ever needed. Don't forget it is torque plus degrees of turn. Quite a bit of force. Some people say use a new crankshaft pulley bolt every time. They are a special order item from Volvo but they are cheaper than chips and why not just change it, just order it in good time. . Last edited by Stephen Edwin; Aug 27th, 2018 at 15:33. |
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Aug 27th, 2018, 18:30 | #10 |
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Thanks to all who've contributed and particularly for the PDF.
Yes, I'm conscious that the belts on these are about as simple as they come, I was simply working through possible ways to avoid buying the crank locking tool and a torque wrench. It's sounds as though they'll be needed as I'm not keen on the idea of jamming screwdrivers in etc... RE whether it's worth buying the tools to do the job when I can actually pay less than that for someone to do the whole job for me, the jury's still out TBH... |
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