New clutch?

[jcwacky]

My 2001 S40 2.0 Manual has done about 78000 miles, and when I had it serviced in February at my local garage, I was told it was going to need a new clutch within a year, as the current one was wearing out.

Sometimes reverse requires a bit more effort than it should to put the stick into, and my clutch release value has been very squeely ever since I got the car a year ago, but other than that there is nothing else wrong with it.

So firstly could this be correct, or should I be experiencing other symptoms of a worn clutch?

Secondly, is there any harm in getting my local garage to do the clutch replacement using non-Volvo parts? As the Volvo garage has quoted £732 for clutch and labour, and possibly another £111 for a replacement slave cylinder if required.

Would be interested to hear your thoughts.

Cheers
James

[jcwacky]

Any advice on signs that my clutch is going, and things to be careful of when getting it replaced would be much appreciated.

[andy_d]

there IS a v/s40 gearbox that has linkage issues, the bushes wear ,giving difficulty getting some gears

have a search on "gear box bushes" "gearbox linkages" "cant get gears" type thing in the s/v40 section, find the type of box that relates to
then use the VIN decoder and see if you have that type of box

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/vin_40.shtml

[Clan]

the gear difficulty is clutch drag , the centre plate not completely free to slide along the gearbox input shaft .
the squeal noise is "normal" there was a problem with this model year and the cure was to fit a turbo clutch , it isnt a problem and your clutch will last for many years to come . A volvo clutch is designed to last the life of the car whatever that is, and generaly does except when abused so if replacing always use the genuine clutch and always a new release bearing/cylinder .

[jcwacky]

Thanks guys, so my clutch could actually be perfectly fine? Is there anyway I can check? What is the first sign of a worn clutch?

[Clan]

the first sign is a heavy clutch pedal and the bite point being almost at the top of the pedal travel

[jcwacky]

Originally Posted by Clan

the first sign is a heavy clutch pedal and the bite point being almost at the top of the pedal travel

Ah ok, so this is sounding like my local garage was wrong, and I'm not actually in need of a new clutch. You might have just saved me a few hundred pounds!

Although I was looking forward to finally getting rid of the clutch release bearing squeal! Oh well.

[Volvon]

you could have air in the system, as its a hydraulic clutch. I had this, and then you get difficulty selecting gears, 5 minutes to bleed it and job done...of course you need to check where the leak originated from and fix that, but its a sure fire quick fix for me. I bet the amount of people that have spent hundreds getting new clutches put in over this problem is epic!

[benf]

Originally Posted by hyvää

you could have air in the system, as its a hydraulic clutch. I had this, and then you get difficulty selecting gears, 5 minutes to bleed it and job done...of course you need to check where the leak originated from and fix that, but its a sure fire quick fix for me. I bet the amount of people that have spent hundreds getting new clutches put in over this problem is epic!

Hi, Could you describe where the clutch bleed point is ? picture would be great Thanks.

[Volvon]

Not sure on a M56 gearbox, but my M5P is on the top next to engine block, simply undo the nipple, attach a bleed bottle and pump a few times whilst topping up brake fluid reservoir (they are linked).