Resistance when changing gears - Page 3

jcwacky · Apr 14th, 2016, 09:35

Hmm, was starting to wonder if that might be the case (despite it not necessarily feeling like it's causing significant wear).

As it doesn't sound like there's an obvious cause, I'll get it in the garage ASAP.

jcwacky · Apr 14th, 2016, 09:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by kieran40

You have had the clutch the dual mass flywheel and release bearing replaced did they also change the slave cylinder which is internal and also the crankshaft oil seal. Pretty pointless not doing it while it's off because it can lead to these issues you now face. When I forked out a huge amount I wanted the job done correctly

I didn't want any more hassle by skimping in a vain attempt to save money on the job.

Thanks, no these weren't done. If he going to tear it down again, I'll make sure those parts get replaced.

What about the master cylinder? Worth getting that replaced too?

kieran40 · Apr 14th, 2016, 09:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcwacky

Thanks, no these weren't done. If he going to tear it down again, I'll make sure those parts get replaced.

What about the master cylinder? Worth getting that replaced too?

No need too replace mc but it's important you replace the other two items whilst it's all off, the slave has a habit of throwing a leak all over you're new clutch and dmf. I am surprised he didn't say too you about it, how much did he charge you for the work op

jcwacky · Apr 14th, 2016, 11:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by kieran40

No need too replace mc but it's important you replace the other two items whilst it's all off, the slave has a habit of throwing a leak all over you're new clutch and dmf. I am surprised he didn't say too you about it, how much did he charge you for the work op

Sorry, just realised the slave cylinder probably has been replaced, as I had a new clutch release bearing.

Just spoke to a local independent Volvo specialist and he recommended the first thing to try is replacing the master cylinder, as that can be done quite easily without taking everything out.

kieran40 · Apr 14th, 2016, 13:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcwacky

Sorry, just realised the slave cylinder probably has been replaced, as I had a new clutch release bearing.

Just spoke to a local independent Volvo specialist and he recommended the first thing to try is replacing the master cylinder, as that can be done quite easily without taking everything out.

No harm in giving it a go is there good luck on it and the bearing is a different componant than the slave cylinder did he give you an itemised bill and receipt to see what he did replace. I would have thought you would get a lot more judder if it was a faulty master cylinder pump the brake pedal with the engine off until it goes rock hard the start the car and if the peddle moves down you can rule out the servo and proberly the master cylinder

jcwacky · Apr 14th, 2016, 13:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by kieran40

No harm in giving it a go is there good luck on it and the bearing is a different componant than the slave cylinder did he give you an itemised bill and receipt to see what he did replace. I would have thought you would get a lot more judder if it was a faulty master cylinder pump the brake pedal with the engine off until it goes rock hard the start the car and if the peddle moves down you can rule out the servo and proberly the master cylinder

I actually bought the parts myself from FRF Volvo, they were:
V00272485 N/Stock Clutch Kit
V31259445 B5 Control Cylinder

I'll give the brake pump a go, thanks.

happy diver · Apr 14th, 2016, 13:37

You could also just swap all the parts from a car that is known not to crunch.
Just get a different garage to do it.

jcwacky · Apr 14th, 2016, 14:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by kieran40

pump the brake pedal with the engine off until it goes rock hard the start the car and if the peddle moves down you can rule out the servo and proberly the master cylinder

Ok, I can confirm that if I pump the brake with engine off, then with foot on the brake, start the engine, the pedal does move down.

ITSv40 · Apr 14th, 2016, 16:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcwacky

Ok, I can confirm that if I pump the brake with engine off, then with foot on the brake, start the engine, the pedal does move down.

That is normal for the brake pedal, however the brakes do not operate the clutch. The two systems share the same fluid supply, but that is all.

jcwacky · Apr 14th, 2016, 16:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by ITSv40

That is normal for the brake pedal, however the brakes do not operate the clutch. The two systems share the same fluid supply, but that is all.

So does that help to rule out the master cylinder at all?

Apr 14th, 2016, 09:35	#21
jcwacky Intermittent Member Last Online: Apr 25th, 2024 12:27 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Edinburgh View Photos By: jcwacky	Hmm, was starting to wonder if that might be the case (despite it not necessarily feeling like it's causing significant wear). As it doesn't sound like there's an obvious cause, I'll get it in the garage ASAP. __________________ My 2001 S40 2.0 Petrol P2 Sport 128,000 miles - Jan 2024 Last edited by jcwacky; Apr 14th, 2016 at 09:37.

Apr 14th, 2016, 13:37	#27
happy diver Active Member Moment Last Online: Apr 29th, 2023 05:58 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Brisbane: perfect for one day, asleep the rest	You could also just swap all the parts from a car that is known not to crunch. Just get a different garage to do it. __________________ 20,000 leagues under the sea diving to adventure in a silent world with my ceiling the waves...Emile

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